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RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whatever123, Sep 2, 2010.

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  1. GooseG

    GooseG Senior member

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    Would you say the chocolate's a little lighter than the stock photos let on?
     
  2. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

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    My pair is definitely a rich, darker color. Not sure compared to the site. I'll try to take a photo of mine outside for color today and we'll see if that helps at all.

    Overall, I'm pretty certain it is a darker brown than brown CXL.
     
  3. Burzan

    Burzan Senior member

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    Got my Weejuns Fenmore from the recent sale today and could not be happier with my first Rancourt made product, the color is really quite something in person. I kind of bought these as a trial run on sizing for when I order my cordovan beefrolls for the Spring.

    They have similar pull up qualities and feel like CXL to me but I never did figure out if they are indeed CXL. Really happy to have these in the collection and hopefully the Rancourt loafers will be a better fit for my foot compared to the OSB loafers which are too wide with too high an instep.



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    Last edited: Dec 9, 2014
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  4. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

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  5. eljlakers

    eljlakers Senior member

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    X-post on OSB thread

    After a year of wearing and collecting Rancourt and OSB handsewns, I thought I’d give my impressions of the various soles I’ve had a chance to try out (excluding the camp moc sole, as that one is pretty straightforward):

    RLH Ranger sole (on Rancourt natural CXL ranger moc): These were the first non-camp sole I had on a handsewn. I was swayed by Kyle’s evangelical salesmanship on these via their blog. First impression out of the box was they felt a bit squishy and almost unsteady or wobbly when I walked. This was likely because, as I believe that Matt Bernier had pointed out, that they had not yet fully cured, both aesthetically and physically. Almost a year later, these are my favorite handsewns, despite a number of purchases since. The RLH sole is dynamite. It has firmed up considerably, doesn’t wear down appreciably despite it seeming very soft to the touch. And I can walk for days in those things. Also great for sneaking up on people since they virtually make no sound! One disadvantage, as has been pointed out by others, is that when walking on a low pile carpet, the toe of the sole can catch pretty easily, similar to crepe. But honestly, that happens less and less as the sole breaks in more. My appreciation for these soles is also helped by the fact that the natural CXL on the uppers is so awesome. I had asked Rancourt when making these up to use as light a color as possible, as I wanted them to darken on my watch. They have definitely done that, and are approaching the coveted caramel stage (all this is an aside from the sole discussion). My next Rancourt shoe will probably be on an RLH Aspen (note: OSB, as far as I know, does not offer RLH soles of any kind).

    Vibram Christy sole (on Rancourt shearling-lined color 8 CXL chukkas): I’m only maybe a dozen wears into these, but they are clearly firmer than the RLH soles. And that may be what is desired. In this case, they are on a chukka that’s intended to be worn in cold and often inclement weather (hence the shearling). From my perspective, the Christy is firm but comfortable and provides decent traction. There’s been no ice or snow in DC since I received these, so I can't comment on how they would handle that. Although I will say the RLH’s performed admirably out in snow a couple times last spring.

    Vibram 2060 (on OSB brown waxed flesh trail oxfords): My newest addition, I think I’m going to love these soles. Extremely lightweight given how thick they are. These are a pleasure to walk in because they are lighter than the RLH yet more cushiony than the Christy. No idea how they’ll wear yet (only three or four wears in so far), but they seem pretty durable. My only concern was whether they veer aesthetically toward orthopedic shoes, but I think they stay just on the safe side of cool. There’s a good contrast to the waxed flesh, which I hope will wear down in spots to reveal the unwaxed nap with heavy use. These should look dramatically different over time. (note: Rancourt, I was told, does not offer either waxed flesh leather, or the Vibram 2060).

    Plantation Crepe (on Rancourt x Hickoree’s blue suede sashiko chukkas): Not sure I need to go too in-depth on this, as everyone probably has a pretty good idea of crepe soles. These ones are thick and substantial and cushiony as you might imagine. I will say, however, that the midsole between the upper and the crepe is pretty stiff. Not uncomfortably stiff (and probably needed to balance out the softness of the crepe long-term) but definitely firm. Aesthetically, these things get dirty quick. As in, the first time you wear them. That’s part of the charm, I would say.

    Hope this helps people in their decisions on soles.
     
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  6. GooseG

    GooseG Senior member

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    Thanks Frank. That kinda stinks, because I had more of a medium brown/casual in mind. The peanut seems a little reddish, but maybe if the chocolate is darker then the peanut will be as well.
     
  7. eljlakers

    eljlakers Senior member

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    For what it's worth, I'm guessing chocolate bison will be in my next Rancourt makeup. Been eyeing it up for a long while - just undecided whether to do a camp moc or something more substantial. So my vote would be bison!
     
  8. Kwaker

    Kwaker Senior member

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    The reputation of Horween is so great that I imagine Bass would have boasted about it if the shoes were made of CXL. Regardless of the source of the leather, the colour looks very good and the pull-up qualities will make it relatively maintenance free.
     
  9. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

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    Well, the bison is till plenty casual IMO.

    Here's my best effort at a neutral color representation. Turns out having some red undertones in these photos.

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    Peanut does seem a little red to me. I'm not sure about it at all. Would have to see it in person, I think.
     
  10. tv2177

    tv2177 Senior member

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    that looks awesome in color! And based on your pictures, I kind of want to guess it is CXL.
     
  11. FatTuesday

    FatTuesday Senior member

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    Very nice indeed! I bought a pair of navy Fenmores during the BF sale and they look great! I now wish I'd bought a pair of the green as well. I couldn't quite figure out the color. Congrats and Enjoy!
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2014
  12. Burzan

    Burzan Senior member

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    Yeah I was on the fence about the color because the pics were not great on the Weejuns site. But after I saw the pics from Gilt I was sold.

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  13. fairlynerdy

    fairlynerdy Senior member

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    Frank, that bison looks so good with some wear on it. The leather looks old/primordial/like something you'd lace up before slaying a dragon.
     
  14. tampatravel

    tampatravel Senior member

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    Well I snoozed on the Navy Bass Beefrolls but randomly walked on to Gilt and found a pair.

    I'm pretty excited.

    I need to get rid of my new in box Rancourt x Jack Spade boat shoes but that will have to wait until spring
     
  15. FatTuesday

    FatTuesday Senior member

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    Or just after! They look like reptile skin! Very cool.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2014
  16. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

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    Thanks! Yup, I like them a lot. I'm a big fan of textured leather and this is something really unique, even more so than some other bison leathers I've seen that have a finer grain. I think Rancourt calls this Tucson Bison, whatever that indicates about it being something a little different.

    And again, every indication is that this leather is tough as heck. Suppose it ought to be if it's original purpose is protecting a bison while it lives on the plains... :)
     
  17. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

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    @GooseG Was just wandering around the Rancourt site and noticed the cognac bison pull-up they use on one of the Blake boots:

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    Less red than peanut it seems, but not quite as dark as brown CXL. So maybe neither here not there.

    I imagine that Portland Dry Goods could get the Clymer made up for you in that, though.

    My current though it is about getting a Clymer boot made up with a smooth lower and a suede shaft (been looking at too many EG Galways and related makeups, but I don't really want a $1,000+ GYW boot).

    My current thought is maybe one of the calfskins for the lower and Repello suede for the shaft. That could be fun. Black and burgundy, tan and burgundy, brown and snuff, or what about the cream suede from those Boothbay loafers with tan calf. That could look pretty good.
     
  18. GooseG

    GooseG Senior member

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    I'm not one to post-hit and run, but unfortunately the last few days were ridiculously busy with some business travel.

    @FrankCowperwood , it's funny you mention that! I had spotted the cognac bison as well and really liked it's similarities to Alpine Grain shades that we see from the likes of Alden, etc. I think it would be a good pairing with this particular makeup, namely the stitching and sole coloring which I would not be changing in an MTO.

    I emailed Katie last night to inquire about availability of this for an MTO, so hopefully I'll here back from her soon. I'm surprised it's not offered more extensively through the line like the "Tucson" bison leather is...this is a good intermediate shade if you don't want red (peanut) or dark chocolate.
     
  19. Portland Dry Goods

    Portland Dry Goods Senior member

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    They retired one of the bison leathers as I recall, though I don't remember which one. If they've got it we can do it for sure
     
  20. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

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    No, no. Your conversations with iFriends about shoes must always come first. :)

    More seriously, I wonder if there's a difference in anything other than nomenclature between the Tucson bison and this pull-up bison. Cognac looks like the grain might be a little different, a little more subtle (for better or worse). As a lighter shade, I much prefer it on the screen to the peanut.
     

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