• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

rydenfan

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Dec 22, 2012
Messages
10,145
Reaction score
3,844
@tifosi , why not split the different and do some navy CXL? Here are a few shots of one of my go to summer Rancourts





 

Michigan Planner

Distinguished Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Messages
7,587
Reaction score
11,689

@tifosi , why not split the different and do some navy CXL? Here are a few shots of one of my go to summer Rancourts
Those are awesome. I didn't know Rancourt would do the "baseball" stitching. I had a pair of navy Quoddy with that stitching and loved the way they looked but couldn't get the sizing to work for me so parted with them.
 

FrankCowperwood

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
10,341
Reaction score
14,551

@RancourtCo Well I must tell you, I love the look of it, and the height is everything to the utility of the boot for me. If someone offered me the better fitting Clymer boots, I would keep these. (Unless they were in shell.) Now that you guys have the laser clicker and you don't need to order a new set of dies to change styles, I wonder if you might consider offering high Clymers. This whole forum drooled when I posted my boots, so I know you'd be able to sell some. If you do make em', I'll buy em'.


Clymer tall boot would be excellent. The style is already six eyelets as is.

That's interesting to hear that laser cutting might allow this kind of design tweak more easily than dies. Makes sense I suppose.

Wonder if that could be a Rancourt x Styleforum collaboration.

Not holding Rancourt to anything, of course.
 

rydenfan

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Dec 22, 2012
Messages
10,145
Reaction score
3,844

Those are awesome. I didn't know Rancourt would do the "baseball" stitching. I had a pair of navy Quoddy with that stitching and loved the way they looked but couldn't get the sizing to work for me so parted with them.


Yes, I believe they call it cross stitch. I think it makes for a great casual look and feels very "Maine footwear" to me. I wear those camp mocs at least twice a week in spring and summer
 

GooseG

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2013
Messages
398
Reaction score
78

Yes, I believe they call it cross stitch. I think it makes for a great casual look and feels very "Maine footwear" to me. I wear those camp mocs at least twice a week in spring and summer


I've always just heard it as "baseball." I think there's also a third lacing style they can do, but I haven't had enough coffee this morning yet so I can't help with that.

How do you guys size your boat shoes? Beefroll size?

Edit:I believe it's referred to as a "double whipstitch."
 
Last edited:

cathpah

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2012
Messages
623
Reaction score
209
...

How do you guys size your boat shoes? Beefroll size?
Yes. They use a different (slimmer) last on their beefrolls, which should fit smaller to take into account the lack of laces...so the boat/ranger mocs should be sized the same size, as they don't need to be quite as snug because the laces do exist.
 
Last edited:

dannyh

Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2014
Messages
5
Reaction score
3
I've always just heard it as "baseball." I think there's also a third lacing style they can do, but I haven't had enough coffee this morning yet so I can't help with that.

How do you guys size your boat shoes? Beefroll size?

Edit:I believe it's referred to as a "double whipstitch."

"Cross-stitched tips" is what at least Quoddy calls the 'baseball stitching', and I would imagine it's the same for the other Maine shops. The double whip stitch can be seen in this tiny picture: http://images.selfridges.com/is/image/selfridges/690-10004-3675831209_DARKBROWN_M?$GALLERY_3ACR$
 

wdahab

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2012
Messages
1,209
Reaction score
731
The "double whip stitch" is what Rancourt calls how they connect the handstitching to the eyestays on the Clymer boots and shoes (where it looks like there are just vertical stitches not connected to anything.

Rancourt calls it "baseball stitch" just like Quoddy, though they know what you're talking about if you say "criss-cross stitch" as well. However, baseball stitch is ambiguous, as modern baseballs aren't stitched with x's, they're stitched with V's and some handsewn shoes are sewn that way as well.

I have my CXL ranger mocs and my CXL boat shoes both with baseball stitches, and they are amazing. The only downside is that you can definitely see that they wear a lot quicker, because there is more stitching exposed. But it's an easily replaced part of the shoe when you send it in for recrafting, so it's no big deal. My shell loafers and shell rangers are both normal stitching, as are the various shoes I've bought under different labels (Steven Alan x Rancourt and Ralph Lauren).

I'm pretty sure the Steven Alans will be resoleable eventually, since they do technically say Rancourt on them. I think one day in the future those are going to get a crepe or Christie sole put on them.
 

GooseG

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2013
Messages
398
Reaction score
78

@mattbernier happy to hear you like the look of them. It's possible we could develop a taller boot but to be honest we don't get enough requests for it at the present time to justify the development costs. On another note, I just want to be clear about our cutting machine, it is not laser. The patterns are projected onto the leather then cutting is done by an automated blade. There is a skilled operator/cutter who positions all of the patterns in precise locations on the leather.


Thanks for the clarification. The first thing I thought of when I saw the picture of that machine was what your energy bill would look like to cut leather all day with lasers.
 

coolarrow

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2012
Messages
2,604
Reaction score
5,380
Eastern standard chukkas today:

 

halfnhalfnhalf

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2013
Messages
2,149
Reaction score
637
Eastern standard chukkas today:

5u0FuJE.jpg

Like those a lot!
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 55 35.5%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 60 38.7%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 17 11.0%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 27 17.4%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 28 18.1%

Forum statistics

Threads
505,177
Messages
10,579,200
Members
223,892
Latest member
bladespower
Top