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RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whatever123, Sep 2, 2010.

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  1. rydenfan

    rydenfan Senior member

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  2. tifosi

    tifosi Senior member

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    LOL. I figured that, Ryden!! I never really looked at the R&Co. trees. I guess cause I never intended to use trees in my loafers. Plus I'm cheap and I get them from Nordstrom Rack for $12. Haha
     
  3. Bakes11771

    Bakes11771 Senior member

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    Orange. I had the same reservation about ordering it that you do, but honestly nobody will see it when its on your foot, and it will look great with the navy when its not.

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  4. green garden

    green garden Senior member

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    This is just marketing. The shoe trees are made of cedar. Cedar is cedar. The properties are the same. There could be a difference with the shape, but I doubt that the tree was specifically made for shell.
     
  5. helius0

    helius0 Well-Known Member

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    Wow, there's a 4 week wait just for them to get shell, not including the time it takes for them to dye the leather and make the shoes?

    I thought I had it bad when Katie's confirmation email said that it'll be 4 weeks before they shipped my caramel shell shoes (ordered last Friday).
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2013
  6. hkpm

    hkpm Senior member

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    Actually the shoe tree for "unlined" shell recommended by Rancourt is solid toe, the one for "lined" shell is split toe.
    They recommend different shoe trees for unlined and lined maybe because the split toe has a little bit of stretch ability that could be "too strong" for unlined shell.
    I still use split toe type in my unlined shell ranger and Alden unlined PTB, no problem was found.
     
  7. tifosi

    tifosi Senior member

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    Decided to go sockless in my beefrolls today. Trying to beat the heat! These have stretched a bit too much to wear sockless, but I harvested a thin insole from a pair of shoes I no longer wear and they fit really nicely now. Now I have the option to wear them either way by just adding or removing the insole.
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  8. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    Donkeys hee-haw. People hem and haw. [​IMG] [​IMG]

    In all seriousness though, I would keep shoe trees in them personally. Using shoe trees doesn't prevent the aging, patina, worn-looking, foot-molding character that we love. Your shoes will still retain their foot molded shape. Trees may prevent some of it from happening as quickly, but it will happen as the leather ages no matter what. In other words, shoe trees don't make the shoes invincible. They will still naturally age and wear out (looking very character filled in the process). Using shoe trees will allow you to enjoy the character much longer than not using them.

    The trees that Rancourt has on their website aren't uniquely made for shell cordovan. They are made to accommodate the shape of their shoes, no matter what leather they are made from. The recommendation of using solid toe vs. split toe as hkpm said above is spot on.
     
  9. Bakes11771

    Bakes11771 Senior member

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    Hopefully the wait on shell means that they are operating below capacity and my snuff rangers will be done quickly.[​IMG]
     
  10. kwhunter

    kwhunter Senior member

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    My hunch is that they are all made by the same manufacturer (maybe Rancourt...) to slightly different specifications.
    In today's USA with its high labour costs, doesn't make sense to just fool around and setup a shoe making business when you can have some cost savings ordering from others; China and India are the cheap overseas suppliers and they can be finished in the US and labeled as Made in the USofA for a higher selling price; even the great GM buys GM branded cars from Toyota, Suzuki and others...
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2013
  11. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

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    OSB is made by Highland Shoe Company (a Berkshire Hathaway company, as it happens). Highland only does rebrands, like OSB and Sperry Made in Maine. They don't do any cross brandings as far as I know.

    Rancourt makes some non-Rancourt branded shoes, with big names being Eastland Made in Maine, Ralph Lauren Made in Maine, and Red Wing Handsewns. They also do some big name collabs like Brooks Brothers x Rancourt, and a LOT of smaller name collabs, like PDG, Taylor Stitch, Steven Alan and Jack Spade, all cross-branded with Rancourt.

    Quoddy and Russell only make their own shoes. Quoddy does some cross-brands, like J Crew x Quoddy, but no rebrands that I know of. Russell only does Russell, as far as I know.

    They all used to have a *lot* more employees, but they had major layoffs in the late 80s, early 90s. I think Highland used to do *all* of Sperry once upon a time, but had to lay off something like 1000 employees when Sperry went overseas. The golden age of Maine-made shoes is over, it looks like we're in the silver age these days.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2013
    2 people like this.
  12. kwhunter

    kwhunter Senior member

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    ^^^ Thanks for the insight
    Hopefully we'll stay a little longer in the silver age. Would be a shame to see these great brands and products moving overseas...
     
  13. tifosi

    tifosi Senior member

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    All we need to do is keep on buying...!!!
     
  14. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

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    Katie would like me to reassure everyone she is getting to emails as fast as she can, but she is overwhelmed. She also stated that natural shell (and there fore all dyed shells) are 2-3 weeks from coming in, and color #8 should be in within the next few days. So if you are getting #8 shell stuff, I don't think you'll have much of a delay (good news for my #8 rangers) and if you're getting anything else it's going to be a while (so my loafers, once I get them in, are going to go into storage until the spring, I suppose).

    Also, I requested that they put the double whip stitch on my Rangers, because is a design upgrade that looks cool. They want it to be their signature thing, and I'm more than willing to have that (I specified not the dual eyelet vents though). I don't believe it's the default on their Rangers yet, but I'm happy to embrace such a subtle, yet cool looking design.
     
  15. Bakes11771

    Bakes11771 Senior member

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    ^Thanks for the message!

    One of the things that I like about Rancourt other than the high level of customization and cheaper access to shell is their classic and simple designs and patterns. I think that they tend to be more plain/simple/classic/traditional than many of OSB's, Quoddy's ect. For that reason, I don't like the whip stitch, but if others like it, then i'm not repulsed. I am, however, repulsed by the double vent eyelets.
     
  16. Bakes11771

    Bakes11771 Senior member

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    Despite the manufacturing defects, the material of those beefrolls that they sent you looks delicious! Anyone have pics of how Natty Shell ages?

    If they developed a Ravello-esque color dye for their shell, then they would really have a hard time keeping up with things!
     
  17. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

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    Yeah, I think the whip stitch is subtle enough and I think actually looks better than stretching the thread across the outside of the eyestays. I think it's a personal choice there, it's not an obvious aesthetic issue at all. The eyevents I think are only for the Clymber (and I can see that being welcome for people wearing rangers in the summer, though my feet have always felt ventilated enough).

    As for ravello vs. their espresso, I think the difference is when the dye is put on. There are some dyes that are added after the fact and some that are part of the tanning. Espresso is after the fact. Ravello is just what you call a certain shade of Horweens brown dyeing process. I don't know why Rancourt doesn't buy any of Horweens browns, but the "rare" colors are really just sorted out by Alden, and named based on the shade. It's all basically just brown shell with inconsistent shading. Same thing with #2,4,6 and 8, or natural, saddle, etc. for the undyed shells.
     
  18. Bakes11771

    Bakes11771 Senior member

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    I see what you mean, but what if they could produce a shade in-house that was similar to Ravello?

    (Not to perpetuate the the Ravello hype. I think it's an attractive color, but I think it is over-hyped lately due to the scarcity. Cigar, much more versatile.)
     
  19. calidist

    calidist Senior member

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    Let us hope your wife doesn't troll SF.
     
  20. Bakes11771

    Bakes11771 Senior member

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    With my Snuff Rangers in production, I am looking to order some alternative laces from TZ laces. They come in 75cm or 90cm lengths. Katie said that their laces are 33" (84cm) Can anyone who has Rangers do me a favor and measure their laces and tell me if they are generous in length or could if they stand to be longer so that I know what size to go with?

    I ordered my rangers with the honey taslan laces, so they can't be trimmed like chestnut rawhide laces. The laces that I'm ordering from TZ are also cord, so trimming is not an ideal option because you loose the aglet and then they fray.

    Thanks

    Pics on arrival, of course. (Although they are strikingly similar to Mothball's.)

    Yet another reason why this thread is so beneficial for Rancourt. Half of my purchases were inspired by other memeber's photos posted here, and would not have been made if not for this thread. (Calikid's espresso Blakes being the other).
     

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