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RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whatever123, Sep 2, 2010.

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  1. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

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    Looks as if it could be the Mimosa calf.
     
  2. Bakes11771

    Bakes11771 Senior member

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    Thank you for sharing those. I will definitely go with the white.

    Sorry that I did not acknowledge your response sooner, it must have been held for moderation.

    Its weird, because initially it showed up as a post from Michael Haines, where he just quoted my post and never added anything in addition. Now your post appears in its place.[​IMG]

    ...the mysteries of StyleForum.

    Edit: Never mind, Michael Haines post is still there. Yours just bumped it back a page. Not so mysterious after all.

    Did you care to weigh in on the matter of white stitching, Mr. Haines?

    Edit: Never mind again, now I see your input. Thank you for your response. Sorry that I did not acknowledge sooner, did not notice it in the middle of the quote box.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2013
  3. Michael Haines

    Michael Haines Senior member

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    My fault if I start to reply to quickly I get trapped in the quote box... This only happens when in a hurry and on the iPhone. The white stitching I think is great by the way wonderful idea.
     
  4. NNNN

    NNNN Well-Known Member

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    Yup, held for moderation. How many times do I have to post before styleforum trusts that I'm not posting pictures of naked ladies stabbing each other?
     
  5. Bakes11771

    Bakes11771 Senior member

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    Thank you, Sir.
    I think only 10 posts, so you should be good now.

    And if you do have any of those photos, please DO post them!

    You will need to start a new topic in the Dumb Threads forum. Title it "Naked Knife Wielding Women Appreciation Thread".
     
  6. tifosi

    tifosi Senior member

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    That is Mimosa calf.
     
  7. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

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  8. agnyc

    agnyc Member

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    I love that pair in the top picture. What leather is that #8 chromexcel or shell?
     
  9. Michael Haines

    Michael Haines Senior member

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    I believe it is CXL
     
  10. agnyc

    agnyc Member

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    I think so too. But I've never seen that color. Love it.
     
  11. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Senior member

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    Hello All:

    I don't have any Rancourts but am interested in learning more about this fine American brand. Does anyone have any comments about the quality of the construction? When I saw the soles, I noticed that the stitching around the welt was fairly large and did not look to be high quality like Alden or Allen Edmonds. How do these shoes hold up?
     
  12. tampatravel

    tampatravel Senior member

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    They're almost a hybrid of Quoddy and AE I'd say. Rancourt used to sell their shoes to AE back in the day actually. They're on point with the same quality for sure.

    Here's a article about the history of the brand: http://www.sunjournal.com/node/791254
     
  13. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

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    It should be noted that for most shoes, the sole stitching is a secondary structural feature. As I've come to understand it, soles are primarily held on by glue. The stitches are there to provide just enough tension so that soles don't start to slowly peel away over time. But without the glue, soles would fall off pretty quickly, since the stitches can get worn through.
     
  14. tampatravel

    tampatravel Senior member

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  15. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    There is truth to this. Both are needed and beneficial, and they act as a support structure for each other. I would add that the stitching is a "lock-stitch" so even though the visible portion of the stitching eventually wears away fromt he bottom of the shoe, theoretically there should still a secure hold due to the twisted thread loop that is present within the stitch hole.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Michael Haines

    Michael Haines Senior member

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    I learn more about shoe construction every day from you good sir. I always look forward to your posts
     
  17. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

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    A lock-stitch is very good, but not as good as a hand-stitch (what Rancourt et. al use for their moc-toes). A lock-stitch will stay secure usually, especially on a seam that doesn't have much pull. But, it can run if pulled, since each thread is only being held in place by the friction of the other thread. Hence why the glue is so important, if there were no glue, there would constantly be a pull on the threads, and it would slowly run.

    A hand-stitch is much better (but very rare for a sole). It's what Rancourt et al use for their moc-toes (and for the Chromepack soles). It has two threads alternating sides, and if done properly, a half-knot tied on each hole (this feature is hidden inside of the hole, but watch videos of Rancourt stitching their shoes, and you'll see that on every stitch, the guy will do a little movement where he wraps the needle around the other thread. So, if a thread breaks, there's a lot of friction holding the thread in place, not to mention the half-knot.

    Very rarely seen on shoes (but I've seen it!) is a chain-stitch or double chain-stitched welt. I've only seen it once, on a 50 year old pair of Wolverine 1000 Mile boots, in their company store in NYC. The welt was actually *two* double chain stitches (an interesting sight) running around the welt. Chain stitches suck for reinforcement, require very specialized machines, and a lot of skill to stitch. If the thread breaks, or the sewer misses a single stitch, they'll just run right out. But they do look awesome.
     
  18. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

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    I have not found anything to be concerned about with the sole stitching from Rancourt. I believe it is good quality and the soles have worn well for me. The rubber heel tap on one pair wore down quickly I feel, but this pair got a lot of use on concrete and that's an easy fix.

    And great information wdahab above. Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2013
  19. Michael Haines

    Michael Haines Senior member

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    Truly Interesting
     
  20. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Senior member

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    This is actually not unheard of, however, it is only at prices which most of us cannot spend. I believe it was originally developed by the italians to lock water out, but now has become just a stylistic element, as most of us arent going to take our $1500 boots on a mountain hike. If you want a stunning example of this type of stitch, search brioni shell cordovan on eBay and you'll see a beautiful pair. Like Wdahab said, it's just very expensive. Also check out DWF's work on boots.
     

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