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Ralph Lauren lines, and 'who makes what' - a definitive guide

To the Nines

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I don't see how the quality of blue label has declined. Are the fabrics really that bad?

The Corneliani blue label items aren't made in Italy anymore, but they're still half canvassed.
The fabrics are not really "that bad". They are still Super 110s fabric to start. Imo it still is a step up from J.Crew, with all due respect to J.Crew and suits of a comparable price point. (J.Crew sometimes uses Wool Blends on its patterned fabrics).

Depending on fit preference, which is also critical, the slimmer fit may be better for someone or not.

The new Blue Label suits are a fair OTR value proposition, especially when they are on sale as they are indeed half canvassed and use Italian S110 fabrics. It's also still a Corneliani constructed product (albeit not made in Italy).

However, for those who are used to Blue Label of past the price difference of several hundred dollars includes missing details; really depends on how important these details are to you.
>new blue label suits have partially lined pants as opposed to being fully lined to the knee (old blue label, BL, PL)
>half canvassed but the quality of canvas itself is not the same as before

in sum, usually the internal components and construction that differentiates suit tiers; especially in a time where even sub $1K suits can now offer great external features such as decent fabrics, (largely) cosmetic sartorial details, horn buttons and Bemberg linings.
 

TimelesStyle

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The current made in england RL PL shoes are priced a tad higher than their made in Italy styles by a few hundred dollars. agreed that quality is dependent on who makes the shoes for which RL uses a variety of manufacturers. EG certainly the best overall within the world of RL but I would not dismiss their Crockett & Jones offerings (their cordovan footwear) and their Silvano Sassetti offerings in RL PL (the latter of which imo is preferable to the stand alone Silvano Sassetti found elsewhere)

I digress but I think if one were able to afford (or access) RL PL that speaks unto itself as it lends to a whole different level of footwear appreciation where manufacturers such as Alden, Trickers, Berluti, Carmina, produce wonderful shoes as well. Different levels of craftsmanship but still great shoes for their respective price points. From a business standpoint, its great to be able to offer craftsmanship with a significant enough sales volume to keep the manufacturing going. I have an preference for the craftsmanship of American and English made footwear but I have to hand it to the Italian made footwear businesses. The latter have competitive boutique and department store presences (Tod's, Salvatore Ferragamo) whose respective sales volumes allow for that. 


The C&J are nice, though they are a bit too thick and clunky for my taste (though I realize they are a somewhat more casual shoe). That doesn't diminish their quality in the least, though. Interestingly enough, the English RL shoes don't seem to sell for much, if any, more than the manufacturer's own brand shoes. The other stuff seems to sell for a larger markup due to the RL branding.

Not sure which Italian shoes are the Sassetti ones, but I do have a pair of RLPL Italian shoes I really like. However I got them on sale for about $300 and they just aren't in the same league as the pair of EG RL shoes I have.
 

fwedo

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Quality has not declined at all...
I have both old and new PRL jacket and fabrics and construction look quite the same.
Some New PRL are still Made in Italy. it depends on the fit. The Polo fit is made in eastern Europe, the Morgan fit is made in Italy.
 
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othertravel

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Quality has not declined at all...
I have both old and new PRL jacket and fabrics and construction look quite the same.
Some New PRL are still Made in Italy. it depends on the fit. The Polo fit is made in eastern Europe, the Morgan fit is made in Italy.


But the new made in italy pieces are fused.
 

md2010

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Quality has not declined at all...
I have both old and new PRL jacket and fabrics and construction look quite the same.
Some New PRL are still Made in Italy. it depends on the fit. The Polo fit is made in eastern Europe, the Morgan fit is made in Italy.

Don't know if the new Italian suits are fused or not. But I won't buy the new PRL suits unless they are below $350. Fabric is definitely much inferior. There are differences between great and not so good s100 wool fabric. Also new half canvased construction is just the chest piece. Previous ones had better construction and the lapels had much better roll. Been to RL store few times. Really tried to like the new suits. But still don't like the feel. And I am huge RL fan.


But the new made in italy pieces are fused.
 

TimelesStyle

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Don't know if the new Italian suits are fused or not. But I won't buy the new PRL suits unless they are below $350. Fabric is definitely much inferior. There are differences between great and not so good s100 wool fabric. Also new half canvased construction is just the chest piece. Previous ones had better construction and the lapels had much better roll. Been to RL store few times. Really tried to like the new suits. But still don't like the feel. And I am huge RL fan.


On some level I think the lower quality is to be expected, seeing as they are now starting around $1k (think they used to start around $1,300). I think $350 is a good price to buy at as well. I like the Black Label suits, which now are around $1,900-2,000 and I generally try and find them for at least 60% off (so same discount).
 

othertravel

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It looks like RLPL has a new maker:

Any ideas on the tag?
 

inimitable

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I would assume if those suits have gone through the outlet stores and onto the eBay sellers at big discounts, they are not that recent. But I'm not sure about the label. The recent RLPL I've seen has not had any makers labels.
 

SuitedDx

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Unlined suede chukkas with a crepe sole:
20122413381_696d8bb1ea_z.jpg
 
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sleepyinsanfran

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Unlined suede chukkas with a crepe sole:

20122413381_696d8bb1ea_z.jpg


I'm guessing C&J. Did RL procure other shoemakers (besides EG and G&G as these are obviously not theirs)?

definitely not C&J. I have seen similar markings on a pair I sold a couple years back (wrong size, so never wore them and had to let them go), but I can't remember if it was loake or sanders.
 
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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

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