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Ralph Lauren lines, and 'who makes what' - a definitive guide

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by apropos, Dec 27, 2008.

  1. GothamRed

    GothamRed Senior member

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    It's less the shoulder structure than it is a slimmer body cut.
     
  2. Quarks

    Quarks Senior member

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    My first encounter with purple label was the Drake cut. I wear size 36R (EU46) for most suits. For the Drake cut, I had to take 38R as 36R is way too fitting all around. And the trousers fit extremely well with 38R. I am quite surprised how slim it the cut is.

    I have just invested on a Savile Row cut on size 36R without having tried on to explore the cut, and it is enroute to me as I type. I will post my thoughts on the cut compared to the Drake. Thus far, I rarely venture out of Tom Ford suits (not out of snobbishness but I had a hard time fitting a RTW suits that truly fit my bodyshape) and since TF has taken a turn with the cutting of the suits, I am looking elsewhere. As of now, after trying on the Drake cut, I am liking the fit but still in the process of getting used to the smaller lapels.

    Any input on Savile Row cut would be appreciated.

    Also, does 'custom fit' on the purple label equates to Drake cut?
     
  3. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    All the custom fit I have seen is drake cut, and it's definitely slimmer, savile row cut is pretty TTS
     
  4. fwedo

    fwedo Well-Known Member

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    I think (but i am not 100% sure) that you have "custom fit - drake" and "custom fit - saville"

    They both have the "custom fit" label inside, but the code of the garment contain drake or savile. Yes, Drake is more fitted than Savile.
    Drake is to me THE perfect fit, without any alteration (I wear 38R with PL and everywhere else). It is far better than any MTM I have bought for several years.

    The new "custom fit" from Polo is quite similar, but with natural shoulders. I have both and they look similar to me, excepted the shoulders and the finish (lot of "sew by hand" on PL). "edit : Oh, and sleeves are far larger on Polo jacket"

    The 38R from BL (anthony cut) is to small for me. I think this one of the slimmest cut they have.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2014
  5. Quarks

    Quarks Senior member

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    I have just received my RLPL Savile Row suit and it fits wonderfully. When I removed the suit out of the box, and tried it on for the first time. I dreaded the feeling that I may have made a serious mistake. It was a big risk without having tried on Savile Row cut. But I was very happy that it fitted so nicely all around, including the pants with adequate leg opening. I must say it has a slightly different feel compared to Drake. Drake is too fitted in the size that I wear. I had to upsize from 36R to 38R. The shoulder with Savile Row seemed slightly more padded but visually, not much of a difference imo. I am also surprised how suppressed the waist is, according to my liking, especially coming from wearing Tom Ford. I am soooo sold on RLPL now. Damn.

    How can one tell whether a RLPL is made by Saint Andrews or Caruso? Just by the white tag (ie. Caruso?)
    Does Saint Andrew made Savile Row and Drake, vice versa with Caruso?
     
  6. Wayward

    Wayward Senior member

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    Saint Andrews doesn't have the small purple tags you might find inside the chest pockets. Saint Andrews has this:

    [​IMG]

    (Photo credit to Brianpore's thread at http://www.styleforum.net/t/352887/the-official-thrift-thread-maker-label-guide)


    Caruso has this:

    [​IMG]

    (Photo credit to MalfordofLondon's store at http://www.malfordoflondon.com)
     
  7. masaccio

    masaccio Senior member

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    Saw these two labels in a PRL Made in Italy suit on EBay.

    Jacket:

    [​IMG]

    Trousers:

    [​IMG]

    I recognize the trouser label immediately as Corneliani, but I thought the jacket label should look the same.

    Since the jacket is marked as a Size 38 and the pants are 35, that would only represent a 3" drop which seems unusual. I am wondering if it's possible that they are a mismatched set.

    Can one tell that from the labels?
     
  8. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    The jacket tag is an old corneliani tag. Don't know why it's mismatched.
     
  9. masaccio

    masaccio Senior member

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    Thanks!

    Any idea what the "6" is between the "35" and "R"?
     
  10. inimitable

    inimitable Senior member

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  11. masaccio

    masaccio Senior member

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    Which would suggest that the pants and the jacket are not, actually, parts of the same suit, right?

    35" waist trousers would match a 41" chest for a 6" drop.
     
  12. inimitable

    inimitable Senior member

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    Yes they are 100% mismatched. Aside from the old vs. new Corneliani tag, the model numbers are different.
     
  13. masaccio

    masaccio Senior member

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    Thanks. I was having troubles reading the model numbers on the labels while on my phone.
     
  14. esoteric

    esoteric New Member

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    I have a older white, button down collar, Blue Label dress shirt with a breast pocket. It says made in USA, 100% cotton from Japan. The fit and finish are literally perfect. Does anyone know who made this for RL? The tag is identical to the one below:

    [​IMG]
     
  15. southbound35

    southbound35 Senior member

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    Cross post from the "Ask a question" thread. Can someone please identify the vintage of this Polo Ralph Lauren suit for sale on eBay? Not sure which set of numbers indicates which year/season.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. inimitable

    inimitable Senior member

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    Not sure exactly but it is the same as the stuff that is currently produced.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. inimitable

    inimitable Senior member

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    Can someone tell me if an RLPL Drake suit always fits the same whether marked Custom Fit or not?

    The custom fit ones are rather slim. I'm hoping a Drake not marked as such will fit similarly to a Savile Row (i.e. true to size). I want to pull the trigger on something from eBay within 24hrs.
     
  18. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    All the drake fit I have seen are custom fit
     
  19. inimitable

    inimitable Senior member

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    Thanks. I pulled the trigger anyway, so I guess i'll be finding out in a couple of days. It didn't say Custom Fit on the label and it had pleated trousers that I associate with more traditional fits.

    It's a solid navy so shouldn't be too hard to flip if the fit is an utter fail.
     
  20. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    What size? :D
     

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