Ralph Lauren lines, and 'who makes what' - a definitive guide

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by apropos, Dec 27, 2008.

  1. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    This is meant to be a reference thread, and is based on information trawled from within this forum - so feel free to post your corrections/contributions!

    I will continue to update this post with new/corrected information as it comes in.


    I lurked on the forums for some time before joining, and have seen questions on Ralph Lauren make/labels come up frequently. Perhaps this thread can serve as a 'master source' of information regarding the Ralph Lauren labels, and the various 'OEMs' that make their clothing.

    THE RALPH LAUREN LABELS

    (in roughly descending levels of 'prestige'; there may be considerable overlap)

    1. RLPL
    = Ralph Lauren purple label
    The top Ralph Lauren label, and by far the most expensive. A slightly schizophrenic line [[​IMG]] with some items being tailored versions of classic styles, and other items having a more whimsical nature. Superlative materials, superlative construction. Apparently, OTR RLPL suits are no longer made as a shift to pure MTM suits occurs.

    2. RLBL
    = Ralph Lauren black label
    The most 'modern' of the Ralph Lauren lines, with a slimmer 'modern' cut and silhouette. The second-most prestigious Ralph Lauren label, with prices higher than PRL, but still less than RLPL.

    3. Ralph Ralph Lauren, or 'Double RL'
    A line with heavy western- and vintage-themed items (inspired by Ralph Lauren's ranch!), contains items of mostly excellent quality. The styling of this line is for the large part extremely distinctive, and may not be everyone's cup of tea.

    4. PRL
    = Polo Ralph Lauren = Ralph Lauren blue label
    Ralph Lauren as most of us know it. A real mixed bag when it comes to quality, ranging from superb made in Italy pieces to absolutely terrible stuff made elsewhere. The styling is classic and the fit is baggier, with modern twists (e.g. neon colours, etc) thrown in. Value varies likewise. One may occasionally run into pieces from a (now discontinued) Italian-made line known as 'Signature Line' (Corneliani construction, apparently on par with RLBL/RLPL construction), with a higher armholes and slimmer fit than PRL as well.

    5. Rugby
    Youth-oriented line, apparently aimed at college students. The focus is on style, and a slightly 'fashion forward' interpretation of classic Trad staples. Quality overlaps heavily with PRL, but the quality of the Italy-made PRL always >> Rugby.

    6. RLX
    Slightly difficult to classify in this lineup, a sports/performance line of clothing. Quality apparently varies from good to average.

    7. Lauren by Ralph Lauren (LRL, sometimes known as green label)
    Ralph Lauren lost control of the ownership of this brand name to the Jones New York Apparel Group in a court battle. Contains clothing of almost-invariably inferior quality manufactured specifically for discount outlets and lower-end departmental stores. Do not confuse LRL with a 'real' Ralph Lauren product! Has a 'silver label' line with a slimmer cut, but the same poor quality - yum!

    8. Chaps (Ralph Lauren)
    Has a story similar to Lauren by Ralph Lauren, a brand that has been spun off from the Ralph Lauren umbrella and contains items that, incredibly, are of even lower quality than LRL. Now beginning to be known as 'Chaps' alone.

    SUITS, COATS & JACKETS

    RRL 'Made in Italy' - at least some are made by Caruso

    PRL 'Made in Italy' - Corneliani

    RLBL 'Made in Italy' - Caruso (not Corneliani as some have incorrectly claimed)

    RLBL 'Anthony' model:
    - Hand-ticked lapels & pockets
    - Hand-padded collars
    - Machine-made buttonholes
    - Full canvas construction
    - Moderate-strong shoulder padding
    - Slight-moderate rope
    - Strongly tapered fit (drop 7)
    - No faux buttonhole stitching on cuffs, no surgeon's cuff
    - Dyed horn buttons

    RLPL 'Made in Italy' - mostly St. Andrews, some by Caruso (these have a slimmer cut) and Cantarelli (the parent company of St. Andrews)

    SHOES

    PRL with 'Ralph Lauren' in script, followed by "Made In England" - Edward Green
    PRL with 'Ralph Lauren' in block letters, followed by "Made in England" - Crockett & Jones
    PRL with 'Ralph Lauren', followed by "Benchmade in England" - Crockett & Jones, or Alfred Sargent (look for a double row of nails on the heel)
    PRL with 'Ralph Lauren' in block letters (made in Italy) - Sesto Meucci (source: RL customer service hotline), some are also Sutor Mantellassi (lower line, not handmade line)

    RLBL - Crockett & Jones

    RLPL 'Made in England' - Edward Green
    RLPL 'Made in Italy' - ???
     
  2. drducky

    drducky Senior member

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    For the few that are still available, you might want to add the blue label signature line
    items are made by Corneliani to a much higher standard than Polo PRL with higher armholes and slimmer fit than PRL as well
    construction most say is on par with the caruso and canterelli lines of RLPL and more classic cuts than RLBL
     
  3. goodlife

    goodlife Senior member

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    RLX=performance stuff

    Lauren Ralph Lauren also has a silver label line with the same crap quality, but a slimmer fit.

    RRL makes great selvedge jeans, and is at its best when focused on its western and work wear inspired stuff. Unfortunately some of this stuff also finds its way into the polo line contributing to its slightly schizo personality.
     
  4. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    1. RLPL
    = Ralph Lauren purple label
    The top Ralph Lauren label, and by far the most expensive. A hybrid 'look', containing classic styles that have been slightly more 'tailored' (read: slimmed down a little, but not to the same extent as RLBL) to match modern tastes. Superlative materials, superlative construction.


    I would suggest RLPL should be thought of as a combination of classic styles with some items of a more whimsical nature. If you want to dress classic & conservative in RLPL, you certainly can. But it also offers the opportunity to indulge in a more outre and extravagant style.


    I wouldn't call the cut "trendy" necessarily, but it is certainly distinctive - strong shoulders, moderately high gorge, fairly low buttoning point, moderately short length, slim through the body.

    In the recent past it was St Andrews for most things with Cantarelli for some outerwear & some sports coats. The Caruso items in the range are generally more recent additions I think.



    Re: RRL - some of it is very good quality. I wouldn't dismiss it as "generally poor quality". It's a bit of a mixed bag, however, from what I can tell. And some of the styling certainly isn't my cup of tea.
     
  5. fuji

    fuji Senior member

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    If I recall some RLPL shoes are made in italy so they wouldn't be edward green. I can't remember the maker though.
     
  6. whacked

    whacked Senior member

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    4. Rugby - youth-oriented line, apparently aimed at college students. The focus is on style, and a slightly 'fashion forward' interpretation of classic Trad staples. Quality overlaps heavily with PRL, but the quality of the Italy-made PRL always >> Rugby.

    5. Ralph Ralph Lauren - I've never personally seen this label, but AFAIK is a western and vintage themed line that has now degenerated into items of generally poor quality.


    I guess it all makes sense now.


    If we are talking quality, all else (prices mostly) being equal, I'd take RRL over Rugby any day. Not every RRL pieces are made in the US like they used to be, but even then, they're still nicer than Rugby or for that matter 99% of Polo Ralph Lauren casual stuff.
     
  7. HatMagnet

    HatMagnet Well-Known Member

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    If I recall some RLPL shoes are made in italy so they wouldn't be edward green. I can't remember the maker though.


    I have a pair of the Italian made shoes,I'd be interested to know who made them.
     
  8. mkarim

    mkarim Senior member

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    Good info. Thanks.
     
  9. mkarim

    mkarim Senior member

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    If I recall some RLPL shoes are made in italy so they wouldn't be edward green. I can't remember the maker though.

    Me too. I bought these about 2 months ago. They are made in Italy (love them, by the way!):

    http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/i...entPage=family
     
  10. phdude

    phdude Senior member

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    A lot of this information is available by perusing old forum threads. Although I do believe this is a useful thread. Although this may be outside the scope of a men's style forum, in my opinion a useful addition would be to add any information on the womens' lines. I've bought my wife a variety of pieces from collection, black, and blue labels over the years, and have seen pieces made in Italy, Hong Kong, China, and the USA-it would be interesting to hear who actually is sourcing the clothing to RL, similar to how StAndrews/Cantarelli/Caruso do mens' RLPL suits/jackets. That is, if anyone is privy to this information-I haven't found anything so far on the web that pertains to my question.
     
  11. bluemagic

    bluemagic Senior member

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    The quality, pricing, and market positioning of RRL is FAR above Polo. Please change this, it is an egregious mistake.
     
  12. HatMagnet

    HatMagnet Well-Known Member

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  13. kaxixi

    kaxixi Senior member

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    The quality, pricing, and market positioning of RRL is FAR above Polo. Please change this, it is an egregious mistake.

    +1 - OP should edit the opening post.
     
  14. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    The quality, pricing, and market positioning of RRL is FAR above Polo. Please change this, it is an egregious mistake.
    Done fellas - thanks for the feedback/input. [​IMG]
     
  15. manouche

    manouche Senior member

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    Rrl ?
     

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