Ralph Lauren Black Label

[johnnynorman3]

Suits are $1500 and are fused -- err, half canvas. The construction is no better, no worse than the Blue Label suits. So, you are paying an extra $300 - 400 dollars just for the cut. The button stance is low -- it really is low. I thought the suiting fabrics were only so-so. I didn't even bother to try one on, but it looks narrow through the shoulder but not real tapered in the waist -- sort of a straight and narrow cut, as opposed to a tapered cut. I didn't even look at the venting -- sorry.

As for shirts, going by the wrist circumfrence they will be narrow. But the fabrics were sort of weird -- 77% cotton, 19% talimade (or something like that), and 5% elastane. Shirts were a bit crisper than I hoped they'd be. They certainly aren't Italian cotton.

Overall, not real impressed. Strange thing though -- at the Boston store, the Black Label tailored stuff had virtually taken over what used to be the Purple Label tailored rack. I hope that doesn't mean Purple Label is being pushed to the backburner.

 

[j]

As for shirts, ... the fabrics were sort of weird -- 77% cotton, 19% talimade (or something like that), and 5% elastane.

That certainly is weird - 101% content.

What is talimade? Thanks for the update. Looks like I will have to find another line to lust after instead.

 

[johnnynorman3]

Sorry, that was supposed to be an 18%.

I don't know if it said talimade. It just said something weird like that.

 

[imageWIS]

Thanks, johnnynorman.

What happened to the shirts being made by Lorenzini? If so, why are they not 100% cotton? I mean, people who want to purchase slim shirts with synthetic fabrics will go to D&G before they go to RL, so why even bother? They should turn the RL Polo Collection (Men's) into RLBL.

RL Polo collection features items which are usually of better quality than Polo items, and those prices reflect this. As well the items are usually trimmer than the offerings of the RL Polo line. Examples that reflect this are the Collection shirts which are typically trimmer than Polo offerings, are made in Italy, and are priced between RL Polo and RLPL at around $195, which incidentally is the price of RLBL shirts. However the collection shirts do not utilize synthetic materials.

Jon.

 

[BlvdDandy]

I actually tried one on. Johnny is right, fabric was neither here not there. But the salesman I talked with said fully canvassed, and I thought my pinch test confirmed, but Johnny knows more about this than me. The button stance is extremely low and the waist is moderately tapered. Very slim overall. The jackets also have double vents. The pants are seriously tight. Seriously. If you are not skinny, I have no idea how you would even dream of putting them on. They also have those tabs on the side to tighten, which I thought was cool. The overall affect is very striking. I loved it and felt very stylish and European, but I also couldn't help feeling that this suit would be out of place in a courtroom or office. Really a dramatic cut I liked a lot, and I will continue to lust over.

 

[johnnynorman3]

The salesman was wrong. These are definitely fused. I personally think that the regular blue label suits use more supple fusing, to be honest. The lapels are canvassed, which is good. They are almost canvassed by necessity -- the lapels are so long that if they were fused it would be a disaster.

 

[Luc-Emmanuel]

Ralph Lauren lusting on the 60s (mod) revival to get some more cash in? For the same price, you can get Costume National which will give you the "european" flair you're looking for.
Although I have never put one of my ennio suit at work, mind you.

.luc

 

[Brian SD]

Quote:

(johnnynorman3 @ Feb. 12 2005,14:05) As for shirts, ... the fabrics were sort of weird -- 77% cotton, 19% talimade (or something like that), and 5% elastane.
That certainly is weird - 101% content.

What is talimade? Thanks for the update. Looks like I will have to find another line to lust after instead.
made by the taliban, of course

 

[imageWIS]

Quote:

(j @ Feb. 12 2005,14:09)

Originally Posted by johnnynorman3,Feb. 12 2005,14:05

As for shirts, ... the fabrics were sort of weird -- 77% cotton, 19% talimade (or something like that), and 5% elastane.
That certainly is weird - 101% content.

What is talimade? Thanks for the update. Looks like I will have to find another line to lust after instead.
made by the taliban, of course
Well, old Ralph was never a practicing Jew, now was he? Jon.

 

[Alias]

The button stance totally bugs me. Are these jackets cut short?

 

[oldskool]

very 1960's - always been rl's thing. being rich in the 60's - something he never was. but now, he is really rich.

 

[benchan]

Low button stance = low gorge as well? or those two and a half buttons design?

those tabs on the side to tighten

Any belt loops? Or those trousers were meant to be worn with suspenders ? I know a few British brand incorporated that design.

 

[BlvdDandy]

Button stance and gorge aren't necessarily related, and on these suits there is a high gorge. Most of them are 2 button models, and the few 3-button samples they had in the store weren't in my size so i didn't really look to see if they rolled through to the second button.

The trousers do have belt loops in addition to tabs.

And they make your head look enormous.

 

[Carlo]

I don't know if it is a sign of things to come but the RL store in Milano was absolutely wonderful when we were there in November. I seem to recall reading that RL was going to cut off the cheaper sublines and reclaim the brand. I hope so - I understand the financial reasons why designers, after making a name for themselves, go for the quick buck with cheap sublines but I hate it.

At the RL store we saw a lot of purple label and a lot of gorgeous but pricey accessories. The store is the RL I think of - rich, warm wood, rich dark paisleys, old time equestrian motif... it was actually a real joy. Similarly the Brooks Brothers store there seemed to have much nicer stuff than the ones here.

I'm just hoping Ralph will admit that the idea of Polo predates him several centuries and that he will stop suing polo clubs for using 'his' logo. It really is laughable when you are organizing a charity polo event for breast cancer research and have to run the artwork through an attorney.

Personally, I'd like to see RL quit competing with Tommy for the urban youth market and go back to classic and well made.

 

[imageWIS]

I don't know if it is a sign of things to come but the RL store in Milano was absolutely wonderful when we were there in November. I seem to recall reading that RL was going to cut off the cheaper sublines and reclaim the brand. I hope so - I understand the financial reasons why designers, after making a name for themselves, go for the quick buck with cheap sublines but I hate it.

At the RL store we saw a lot of purple label and a lot of gorgeous but pricey accessories. The store is the RL I think of - rich, warm wood, rich dark paisleys, old time equestrian motif... it was actually a real joy. Similarly the Brooks Brothers store there seemed to have much nicer stuff than the ones here.

I'm just hoping Ralph will admit that the idea of Polo predates him several centuries and that he will stop suing polo clubs for using 'his' logo. It really is laughable when you are organizing a charity polo event for breast cancer research and have to run the artwork through an attorney.

Personally, I'd like to see RL quit competing with Tommy for the urban youth market and go back to classic and well made.

Most of the "Flagship" RL stores (how can you have more than one flagship store? Plus in countries that only have one RL store, how can you have a "˜flagship' if that is the only store? Ah, never mind...) are decorated in the same manner, dark paneling, grand staircases, oil paintings of people in formalwear, and equestrian overtones which convey the "˜lifestyle' that RL is trying to sell. Yes, I appreciate the look of the RL stores as well, especially the jazz/ blues musical selections. RL has out Brooks Brother'ed Brooks Brothers.

Regarding the lines, well in defense of their corporate strategy: the RL stores only carry RL Polo, RL Polo Collection, RLBL, and RLPL. Everything else is merely lower lines that are not "˜officially' RL merchandise, only licensed items to be carried in other stores for the sake of pure profit. Those lines contribute nothing to the corporate image, nay they contribute to the image of the people wearing the so-called "˜RL' merchandise of which they are trying to portray, and RL has seized on that notion to make money.

How dare you suggest that RL did not invent Polo. Heresy. Heresy I say.

Yeah, suing Polo clubs and Polo magazine for using the name is completely ridiculous, but what are you going to do?

Regarding the urban youth market, is it not Hilfiger that encroached in RL's territory and not the other way around? It is regardless however, as RL seems to be moving more upscale, and the urban youth market can hardly purchase RLPL items, now can they?

Jon.