Ralph Lauren Black Label MTM worth it?

Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by starbuk, Apr 23, 2016.

  1. starbuk

    starbuk Member

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    Despos 2x Zegna price and I don't have the ability to discern the quality enough to make it worthwhile.

    Wasn't able to get good suggestions on good tailors outside of Despos in the area. One gentleman had a couple shops but only one of them still did bespoke work. Richard Bennett also replied but have not heard as much about him. Would rather pay $500 premium for MTM rlbl.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2016


  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    How about trying something from the regular Polo line? A few years ago, I was lifting more, and my chest was deeper than might have been expected for the breadth of my shoulders, and I found that Polo fit me considerably better an Black label.

    And yes, Paul Stuart might be a good bet for you as well, though not the Phineas Cole line, which fits pretty darn slim, ime.
     


  3. starbuk

    starbuk Member

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    Thanks LA. I called PS and will see them in a couple of weeks. Will also stop by Ralph Lauren again at the same time so that my fiancé can see both and weigh in.
     


  4. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    In reality Milano, Fitzgerald, and Regent aren't very slim and I'm not saying that as a kid who like painted on clothes. If you have a large upper back and shoulders, even a Milano will have a relaxed fit, once you get the shoulder sized properly. Milano is, however, a short cut jacket.
     


  5. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    Without a budget, that would be the overwhelmingly obvious choice.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2016


  6. Alpha11

    Alpha11 Senior member

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    Not sure how your fitting was on the Milano model however what I noticed and the SA showed me. The lapel is smaller, the coat (as you already stated) is shorter, the arm holes are higher, the fit around the chest and waist is more suppressed, the pants are very narrow through the legs and thighs ( this is a big issuse with me as I have big thighs) and the taper at the bottom is much smaller.

    The amount of extra tailoring it would taken would have been too much if I went off the rack and because of the size of my chest and arms would have not been idea with MTM either. They are having a sale coming up for their MTM so I might stop by and talk with my SA as I have a wedding coming up in July.
     


  7. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    I had the opposite problem. The shoulders were OK, the best of Brooks probably, but the body was really relaxed and the pants were comically huge. I need a 38 shoulder on a 36 or 34 everything else. The lapels are exactly 3 inches, so a bit too thin IMO.

    I'm starting to hate Brooks more and more.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2016


  8. jonathanS

    jonathanS Senior member

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    I feel like the more styleforum you get the more you dislike brooks. Accepting that despos isn't an option (I did preface it with if you budget is not a concern) what about Samuelsohn made to measure or hickey freeman. They're not as sexy a name as zegna or black label, but those are decent quality suits. Also, if you're doing a black tie / tuxedo, make sure you don't forget the other details for a tuxedo (see black tie guide).

    I invested in the entire black tie set bc it will never go out of style - that is a tuxedo shirt, stud set, bow tie matching your lapel facing, cummerbund (if it's not a double breasted), suspenders (optional, recommended), shoes (I personally prefer well polished calf to tuxedo shoes, so I didn't bother with shoes).
     


  9. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    Samuelsohn MTM is a good option. There are local places that charge around $1,100 for basic fabric.
     


  10. Alpha11

    Alpha11 Senior member

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    I actually have nothing but good things to say about Brooks Brothers and their MTM program. The price is acceptable and the selection of fabrics are too numerous sometimes I think. the difference in experience comes down to the sales associate not the company as a whole. My guy has been working there for over 30 yrs and tailors for almost the same amount of time.

    This forum has done nothing to sway me from shopping one bit. While I do still shop at other retailers i am I happy with my suits from BB and their MTM program. Actually, as I am writting this response I am wearing one of my suits from there now and got interrupted by a compliment from a total stranger..lol!

    It does not matter where you buy a suit from if it does not fit right. Having a competent tailor is the key and being able to communicate what you want to the sales rep can also help. Additionally, not doing it on the cheap as you get what you pay for. Not saying you are just passing along my own personal experience when I went that route. I am the same way with my shoes ties, and cars. I also watch real men real style for tips as well.
     


  11. starbuk

    starbuk Member

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    With NYC I saw many glowing reviews of Mr. Ned. Here (Chicago advice) I hear one place mentioned once then about 5 more in the same manner. Paul Stuart seems to be a good option albeit near RLBP pricing but at least I know that the suit will be of high quality. Samuelsohn or BB, or 10 others just like them, I don't know what the difference is but I know that I can't just trust my wedding to anyone. This is just as much about finding someone to trust as it is going with a place that has high quality fabrics. If I can do that under $2,000, great. It seems odd that I may not be able to, but that is the situation that I am in - having little experience in these manners I am forced into paying up to ensure that I look nice.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2016


  12. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    The right guy could get you in a Sammy for well under two grand. Finding the right guy... Is hard.
     


  13. Alpha11

    Alpha11 Senior member

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    Do some research on the fabric mills that each company offers. The way the fabric is weaves together rather it be 1 on1, 2 on 1, or 2 on 2. Additionally, the super count and the fabric itself, rather it be 100% wool or a poly blend and whatever else. Once you have a good understanding of that stuff then the next step will be construction like half or full canvas fused together or hand stiched. Then you can focus on fit!

    All my suits are MTM so I cannot really help you with off the rack at BB as i have never purchased one of their suits of the rack and coukd be why I have not had the experience you had with them. The price is paid range from 1800 to 4800 and all of them were made in the good old US of A in their Southwick Factory and the fabrics I used were Lorna Piana Drago, and Vitale Barberis Canonico.


    My best friend is getting married in Oct and my brother in July and I told them the same thing I am suggesting to you. Both of them are going to be a very hard fit with one being 5'8 and 285 and the other 6'7 and 390 which means i will most likely have to go with them . However, in the end you have to wear your decision. Best of luck and do not forget to stop back when you are all done and give us an update.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2016


  14. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    I disagree 100%. Fit matters first and most. The weave of fabric matters so little.
     


  15. Alpha11

    Alpha11 Senior member

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    If we are talking MTM then the fit should be address during the fitting session and as such should be static. So here is my experience with my MTM at BB.

    1) Sat down with my sales rep and answered questions like:
    How often will I be wearing the suit? This is also the part where the weave and super count comes into play as a super 180 might not be best if I am hard on my suits or wear them often.
    What type of season will I be wearing it?
    What type of finish you want the fabric to have?
    Do you want full or have canvas?

    After I answered those questions we then went into the fit and measurement portion of the process. I got my measurements and use that to determine the profile model I would use for my MTM suit. If there were any body issues like sloped shoulders, posture issues, or the issue I have with my chest that will not allow the jacket to lay flat. Additionally, if I want anything more taper or let out Once that is completed I was asked what additional elements I wanted to my suit like ticket pocket, slanted pockets, pick stitching, custom lining, etc. All that is enter into the system and the color and pattern is finalized.

    That is pretty much it! So if your are going MTM it really does not matter what order you go just that you cover all your bases and undertand fabic DOES effect fit as well.
     


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