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Ralph Lauren Black Label MTM worth it?

Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by starbuk, Apr 23, 2016.

  1. starbuk

    starbuk Member

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    I went shopping down Michigan Ave here in Chicago looking for my wedding tuxedo. Zegna tuxedo was $3k+ ready to wear. Ralph Lauren BL is now apparently merged with Purple Label,had the hand made tux for 5k (old purple label) and the MTM for 2.5k (old BL).

    I'm a 42r and 34 waist. My chest isn't huge but I exercise and it's larger than normal, so the Zegna and RL tux both had the lapels flaring out a bit. Salesman is saying that MTM is best bet since they can fix that and a tailor cannot. If I can buy a 42r from SF or eBay and have the chest tailored, that would save me 2k. If it can't be fixed I'm stuck with MTM and need to decide if 2.5k plus tax is a good deal for Ralph Lauren. Material is the same as traditional purple label, fully canvased, etc.

    Could really use some help, I hardly know what shoulders, chest, etc should look like and I feel like I'm in the dark spending $3k.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2016
  2. jonathanS

    jonathanS Well-Known Member

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    What do you mean by lapels flaring out? Do you mean it doesn't sit cleanly across the chest?

    Regarding whether or not you need made to measure, I don't think you do - it's not like you have a 10 or 12 inch drop. Make sure it fits in the shoulder. You can take in the wait in both the jacket and the trousers.
     
  3. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Well-Known Member

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    An 8 inch drop is fairly standard. Mine's around 9 or 10 depending on how well I'm eating, and good tailoring makes RTW feasible.
     
  4. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    Hi,

    I'm going to move your thread to Menswear advice, where basic questions like this can be easier to find for users who want to find this type of information.

    Cheers,

    Fok.
     
  5. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    Just from your description, it seems that you have been trying on suits that are too small. That the lapels on 2 separate tuxedos from 2 different companies flare suggests you may want to try on a size larger. As long as the shoulders fit, as someone has already pointed out, and the chest sits flat, the waist, back etc... can all be altered fairly easily, and there are plenty of good alterations tailors in Chicago.

    As for the fit, I like the way that this jacket fits:
    [​IMG]
    (https://www.paulstuart.com/men-s/formal-wear/black-italian-wool-tuxedo-7.html)
    A traditional tuxedo fits a little slimmer than a traditional business suit, skimming the body, but on constricting it.
     
  6. starbuk

    starbuk Member

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    Hi all, the shoulders fit, I am a 42 but the chest does not lay flat. If the chest cannot be altered, I have to get MTM. That was my question. The follow up was whether or not rl bl is worth the cost or if there are better options. If the chest can be let out I can get a suit online for less.
     
  7. Alpha11

    Alpha11 Well-Known Member

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    If what your are experiencing is the jacket puckering at the breast then it is common among men that work out and have a pronounced chest but small waist. I have the same problem. If that is the case then go MTM as most off the rack suit rarely are able to address or minimize that from happening. The type of tailoring that can address that is call crook or V the chest. If that is not your issue then you have it easy.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2016
  8. starbuk

    starbuk Member

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    That is my issue, unfortunately. It's not extremely pronounced but is happening. I suppose I have to decide if it's worth the premium to get rid of the problem. I don't own many suits so could hardly see the problem at the stores.
     
  9. jonathanS

    jonathanS Well-Known Member

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    sizing up & taking in the waist might help you solve the problem. So instead of 42 get 44 or 54 eu (it's less than 44 but more than 42 actually)
     
  10. Alpha11

    Alpha11 Well-Known Member

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    Not sure going up a jacket size will help with the chest issue. The only way I was able to get it to work for me is to have the chest " V" or crook. Which they add more material to the garment and adjusted the canvas within the suit. From my understanding the cost to have a clothing tailor try and add that to the suit is not only costly but, gives no guarantee the work would be done correctly. As stated before his best bet is to go MTM that way they can do it during the construction of the garment rather than after. At least that has worked for me. My SA Jeff has been selling suits for all most 35yrs and my tailor Gino has 50 yrs and at one time supervised 20 others clothing tailors so I trust them and have had no problems thus far.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2016
  11. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Well-Known Member

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    Another alternative is to try a fuller cut suit. You are likely getting the lapel problem because the suits are not the right cut for your frame (Anthony is slim with high arm holes). Go with a more traditional cut suit and forget the trendy labels. In BB language, stop trying to fit into a Milano if the Madison will fit you well. As stated, waist and sleeves can be taken in later. Those alterations will also be minimal in price.

    For the price of RLPL/RLBL MTM, you can get a tuxedo bespoken. This would be my route.
     
  12. Alpha11

    Alpha11 Well-Known Member

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    I did not think of that but maybe changing the suit silhouette may actually help. The funny thing is I was told that exact thing by a Brooks Brothers rep as far as Milano and as such I went with the Regent and Fitzgerald fit..lol!
     
  13. starbuk

    starbuk Member

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    The Zegna mainline didn't seem to be a modern cut and I had a similar issue. That was a 52 which perhaps was a bit below 54. But I don't want to spend 3k on an off the rack suit from Zegna.

    I can't find a good shop that will sell me a bespoke suit for 2k. Mr. Ned is the best option so far in NYC, and I can be there once for work but the second fitting I'd need to pay to fly and stay out there. Will end up costing me 2k+ anyway.
     
  14. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Well-Known Member

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    I freaked out when I first heard RLBL was being D/C but glad to hear they're keeping the fit for RLPL. Haven't bought a suit under the new brand but maybe in the next year or two.

    I'm not familiar with Chi-town but I assume there are some good tailors there. I think there is a Chicago thread somewhere on SF...

    Have you tried Paul Stuart or Brooks Brothers? They have varying cuts although they won't have as much "wow" factor when you talk about where you got your tux. I personally haven't worn Zegna in a LONG time so I'm unfamiliar with their cuts. It has been said, go for the shoulder fit and don't worry about the sizes. It takes more leg work to try other makers but you might find better a fit. If you want to stick to RLBL/PL, Zegna, or other Italian houses maybe the cut just isn't right for you. TF and Brioni are awesome but they just don't hang well on me so I pass on them. Same goes with shoes... StC and JL are trendy now but they just don't fit right so I go with other makers.
     
  15. jonathanS

    jonathanS Well-Known Member

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    If you want to get a great fitting suit & budget isn't an issue, isn't Chris despos in Chicago (atleast part time)? He can do bespoke.
     
  16. starbuk

    starbuk Member

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    Despos 2x Zegna price and I don't have the ability to discern the quality enough to make it worthwhile.

    Wasn't able to get good suggestions on good tailors outside of Despos in the area. One gentleman had a couple shops but only one of them still did bespoke work. Richard Bennett also replied but have not heard as much about him. Would rather pay $500 premium for MTM rlbl.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2016
  17. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    `
    How about trying something from the regular Polo line? A few years ago, I was lifting more, and my chest was deeper than might have been expected for the breadth of my shoulders, and I found that Polo fit me considerably better an Black label.

    And yes, Paul Stuart might be a good bet for you as well, though not the Phineas Cole line, which fits pretty darn slim, ime.
     
  18. starbuk

    starbuk Member

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    Thanks LA. I called PS and will see them in a couple of weeks. Will also stop by Ralph Lauren again at the same time so that my fiancé can see both and weigh in.
     
  19. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Well-Known Member

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    In reality Milano, Fitzgerald, and Regent aren't very slim and I'm not saying that as a kid who like painted on clothes. If you have a large upper back and shoulders, even a Milano will have a relaxed fit, once you get the shoulder sized properly. Milano is, however, a short cut jacket.
     
  20. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Well-Known Member

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    Without a budget, that would be the overwhelmingly obvious choice.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2016

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