Raffaele Caruso vs Cantarelli

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by foto010101, Nov 4, 2011.

  1. marblehouse

    marblehouse Senior member

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    never odd or even
    

    These generalizations are not true. I've handled Cantarelli's mainline items (and Cantarelli for BG) that are soft-structured, fully-canvassed, and have tons of handwork.





    +1. Both are good, but it really depends on the line. Cantarelli higher end items have softer silhouettes - very Neopolitan - that is easily on par with Caruso. The items they make for other brands and their diffusion lines have very different characteristics: Cantarelli tailor (half-canvassed, shoulder padding, all machine-sewn), Cantarelli "Absolute Light Jacket" (extremely soft/unstructured). Caruso has more consistent quality, but I've even seen SP items entirely machine-sewn (although I've never come across a Caruso item that wasn't fully canvassed).


    Cantarelli: quality in higher end line, soft tailoring; attractive cuts/structure in "Light Jacket" line (but not much if any handwork); lower lines questionable/completely inconsistent styling.

    Caruso: fully-canvassed, consistent quality across lines, some structure; Sartoria Parma line typically has nice hand-detailing.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2012


  2. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    I think Caruso has moved closer to the soft tailoring side of the fence. A few years ago, the jackets were longer, the shoulders were a bit more padded and the canvass a bit more stiff.
    Now it is more like a typical non-structured feel.
     


  3. totolino85

    totolino85 Well-Known Member

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    Is it possible for Italy they produce a separate line of products those brands? I've recently been in a shop in Frankfurt and they had loads of Raffaele Caruso Suits but they litteraly didn't look anything like the one you find in Italy! Jackets were at least 1 inch longer, shoulders were much more "full" and the materials itselfs were way lighter (wich is confusing being germany northern than Italy !)
    Again I'm very far from being a expert, infact I'm a newbie but that could be the reason why some of you has one opinion and the other just the opposite! You may just have 2 completely different products!
    Vittorio
     


  4. JTA

    JTA Senior member

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    The old Faconnable Tailleur (designed by Albert Goldberg) was made by Cantarelli and it's fully canvassed, softly constructed and good quality. Nevertheless the recent years Faconnable (especially after they changed the label) is quite abysmal.
    I'm of the same opinion of you that Cantarelli (higher end), Caruso Sartorio Parma and Boglioli (especially the K jacket) are some of my favourites (alongside Kei Canali, La Vera Sartoria Napoletana and Attolini however very difficult to find on discounted price). All of them are softly constructed and lightweight.
    I beg to differ as in my personal experience Cantarelli is much better than BB in both quality, fit plus their fabric is also miles ahead than BB.
    +2
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2013


  5. Goodman

    Goodman Senior member

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    The difficulty in comparing the two brands is that they both contract out so, as a result, the quality/style of their product is a reflection of the quality/style desired by their clients. I own suits/sport coats made by both and I can't find any significant difference in quality. They are all fully canvassed and have worn equally well. The real issue when dealing with either manufacturer is finding a model that works for you. I have suits/sports coats from Caruso for RLBL, Lanvin and Barney's and they all fit differently and it's the same for Cantarelli. Just go with what fits best.
     


  6. clausc

    clausc Senior member

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    Hmmm. I have a discount outlet around that sells a lot of Cantarelli suits and jackets at heavy discount (70-80% off), but probably these are 3 to 5 years old. I bought yesterday a Cantarelli DB wool coat in boiled wool and previously a cotton suit that are nice. All the other suits or jackets I tried (Tailor, Washed or Jersey Planet collections) were of dubious quality and the fit was too relaxed and did not work for me. I suppose most of the Cantarelli stuff on Yoox is similar and inconsistent and unless you have free returns (not my case for Yoox), I would not buy them online.
    I have much better experience with Caruso from Yoox, but those are more expensive.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2013


  7. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Senior member

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    i think this is the most important thing. the cut of the average cantarelli is really very different from the average caruso. cantarelli works really well for a more athletic body shape. caruso tends to work best for a slim but not particularly athletic shape. now, i'm aware of the fact that caruso is all over the map with its models - but i've tried on tons of models and almost every single time i've discovered that the armholes / arms are way too skinny, they leave too much room in the gut, and the jackets are cut too short. shoulders, while typically lightly padded, are cut very square and without much of a slope.as a result, much as i love their very light tailoring, they do not work for me at all. with caruso in particular, it is really critical that you have a certain body shape for it to work.
     


  8. totolino85

    totolino85 Well-Known Member

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    Really you find arm holes of Caruso smaller than Cantarelli? For me is exactly the opposite :) Same thing for lenght of the jackets, Cantarelli are bit shorter . Agree on the shoulders with the light padding, they square you up a little, in that Cantarelli works better for me aswell.
    As "shape" I do like aswell more Cantarelli but ,as you say , I absolutely adore the fabrics from Caruso ,expecially their flannels so I'm always fighting between them too,being on the same price range (off course when I find Isaia or Kiton on sale for the same price I go for them but is very rare unluckly!!!!)

    But indeed I'm more athletic than skinny (184 cm 83 kg) ..

    I really think there are thons of lines within the lines of Caruso and Cantarelli !

    Vittorio
     


  9. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Senior member

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    i have found that for mainline cantarelli, the armholes are quite reasonable. i have noticed though that for casual jackets, the cantarelli tailor line, etc - they can run a bit small.

    for caruso, maybe more than the armholes - the problem is the sleeve width... also, the sleeve pitch on most caruso's are not angled enough -- they tend to be cut very vertical. so, if you are broad-shouldered, this can be a problem -- by the time you have found a size that is big enough in the shoulders, you end up with a lot of excess material in the chest / armpit.

    i do like the fabrics of caruso and the very light construction, but the cuts are a deal-breaker for me.

    for an athletic guy, i still believe that isaia and belvest are your best bets. (recognizing that like caruso, belvest has many models - but on average, this tends to be true.)
     


  10. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Senior member

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    As others have said, it is all about fit. Quality wise, if you're going to compare best to best, I call it a wash.
     


  11. totolino85

    totolino85 Well-Known Member

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    belvest? never heard of is it italian? Isaia is amazing but (@ least in the 3 shops I buy stuffs) is 50% more than caruso and cantatelli.
    Cantarelli and Caruso runs around 1000 euro\suit while for Isaia I never found anythign I like for less than 1500!

    I'll check out this Belvest !
     


  12. GothamRed

    GothamRed Senior member

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    Belvest is good stuff. Even though the fit is generally good for me, I'm really starting to dislike all of the (at least to me) obvious Isaia branding these days.
     


  13. totolino85

    totolino85 Well-Known Member

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    saw today in a shop after your suggestion, really not bad style and relly nice flannes! Very very expencive though , 750 euro a jacket around 1300 a suit (I'll check it out on big sales thought :p).

    What you mean with obvious branding?

    Vittorio
     


  14. GothamRed

    GothamRed Senior member

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    e.g.


    [​IMG]
     


  15. totolino85

    totolino85 Well-Known Member

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    yeah we kind of like those bullshits in italy :)
     


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