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quite happy with ascot chang, room for improvement if switch to charvet or TA?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by poseidon, Oct 24, 2012.

  1. poseidon

    poseidon Member

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    Hi:

    I've made 3 orders with Ascot Chang in the last year (first with the Hong Kong ICC shop over in Kowloon and again in NYC), and have been very happy with the fit, I was able to make quite a few tweaks especially in the later orders that I think you simply can't discover on a first order. But now that I am quite satisfied with the Changs I am starting to wonder again ..the question is, will I see a significant improvement in making new orders with Charvet, Turnbull/Asser, or something which is perceived to be of a "higher" tier? I nonchalantly spoke to Mr. Wong at the NY AC the other day and he assured me that the reason Charvet or TA are more expensive is largely due to their branding, history and not necessarily construction...and it seemed plausible to me.

    But then again, am I missing something. I remember buying an OTR suit from Hugo Boss and having it tailored after college and literally thinking at the time that the fit can't get any better, until of course, I found the next best thing. Similar case here? Will Charvet or Turnbull Asser shirts make the Ascot Changs seem unwearable? Or would it be more of a toss up?

    Thanks for all your help!

    Vic
     
  2. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Hand-stitching possibly? The shape of the collar another?
     
  3. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Senior member

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    So you settled for a cheap Chinese product and now regret that you did not go European?
     
  4. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    that's very arrogant. I think Ascot Chang can do the same as T&A. However if you are obsessed with crazy stitchings and 'hand' details, please head to Isaia or other Napoli shirt makers.
     
  5. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    I've found the fit of my AC shirts to be impeccable. That being said, you should try the others if you have the inclination. Fit (partially subjective, partially objective) at other houses will likely be a different. Hard to say whether you may like it better or not. There is also the consideration of fabrics, as different houses probably have access to different fabrics (I'm thinking of Charvet in particular). Also, style differences, e.g., Turnbull's triple button cuff, or slight variations in the shape of a collar. Collars/cuffs will probably have different interlining too. And finally, some shirtmakers will handstitch as others mentioned. I'm sure there is plenty of room in your closet for more than one shirtmaker. For instance, with suits, most users here probably see more than one tailor...surely there is nothing wrong with that!
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2012
  6. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    I always thought that AC and T&A were in the same "tier" especially when it comes to pricing 200-300ish per shirt whereas Charvet would be around the 500 (This is their MTM pricing, i have no idea about Bespoke because apparently its only available in Paris) and up range? Btw last time i checked T&A had a minimum order requirement for their bespoke shirts. If you really like handstiching and finishing i would suggest (if you are ok with MTM as opposed to full Bespoke) The neoplotian makers like Kiton, Isaia, etc. Also if you get the chance maybe try out a shirt from NSM they don't have a minimum order and the price was quite reasonable, if i remember correctly i paid like 180 Euros. Im not sure if its bespoke though as i have a pretty hard time understanding mina sometimes.
     
  7. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Yes, I think Ascot Chang cuts an English shirt well, or rather, in the same conservative manner as most English shirt makers. For beautiful handwork, amazing collar rolls, and the like, you'd be better off with a Parisian house, or in Italy.

    T & A does have a 6 shirt minimum order -- approximately 350 usd (base price) for each.
    T & A also does have their own range of fabrics though they tend to be a little too ostentatious.
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2012
  8. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    As far as I know, none of those three offer hand stittching aside from buttons which, while nice, makes a negligible impact on the look / fit / anything else of the shirt.


    I havne't heard of anyone ordering proper bespoke from Charvet (though, now that I think of it, maybe RJMan did at one point). Everyone whose comments I can remember had only tried their MTM because bespoke is crazy expensive.

    I don't know about Charvet but Turnbull has something like a six shirt minimum. If you don't find any improvement, that will be an expensive foray.

    Unless you're looking for something that AC can't provide, I'd stick with them if they have your pattern down. As you know it will take a while to get to that same point with someone else.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. etkl

    etkl Senior member

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    Whatever reasons you may have for trying Charvet or T & A, handstitching should not be one of them. To my knowledge, the only hand sewing on a Charvet shirt is the attachment of the buttons. I do not believe that T & A has any hand stitching. On the other hand, as of few years ago, AC would handstitch every seam and buttonhole for any additonal $150. I don't know if they still provide that option.
     
  10. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    I've ordered commande speciale, demi-mesure and grande-mesure (i.e. proper bespoke with a toile fitting) from Charvet.

    In my case the bespoke was not worth the additional time, effort, or price.
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  11. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I think you're being waaaay to diplomatic. I have yet to see one of their 'propriety' (scare quotes because you can supposedly get them elsewhere) fabrics that doesn't lie somewhere between unwearable and horrible.
     
  12. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Yes, indeed. I think they have that service, though it's at an additional charge of $200.
     

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