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Quintessential Knit Ties: Comprehensive Discussion & Appreciation

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Bespoke DJP, Feb 4, 2016.

  1. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior member

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    Dear Jason,

    Thank you very much for your reply, it's been a while.

    How can I forget that you are no longer an AV in SF, as I was among the other gentlemen who gave you the farewell? This was not, therefore, a commercial invitation, but merely an invite - as you rightfully said - to a Thread dedicated to the discussion and appreciation of knit ties. We also share the same preference for square-end knits at 7cm of width! I would appreciate if during a future interesting discussion, we would have the opportunity to have your experienced opinion.

    I remember that you discussed the Sozzi zigzag issue in one of our e-mails, yet do you know if this applies to the other lines as well? Having in mind, especially the cashmere - wool line, I am waiting with anticipation for your information, should you have one.

    Best

    Dimitris
     
  2. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior member

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    Finally, we may pinpoint offerings that appear on the web or in brick-and-mortar shops for the benefit of everyone.


    Dear Gentlemen Hi,

    Based on the above, I believe that a fine buying opportunity that has been found needs to be presented here for any gent who would be interested in.

    It is a Sozzi-made Tone-To-Tone 100% Silk knit tie in Charcoal (Sozzi Color Code: V2) made for Viola Milano, that at this moment it can be found in their outlet section of their site having a reduced price:

    [​IMG]

    Cheers

    Dimitris
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2016
  3. MrTRC

    MrTRC Senior member

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    There might be a reason those are on sale: i mean a charcoal tie is of limited use. A two-tone one would be of even more limited use ( in my case, zero).
     
  4. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior member

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    Dear @MrTRC Hi,

    Thank you for posting. Although I partially agree with you, it is one of the aims of this Thread to highlight sales opportunities available to all gentlemen.

    As far as charcoal is concerned - though slightly off topic - I own one Pal Zileri wool tie in charcoal which can be nicely assorted with all grey flannel suits (from light grey to charcoal) and even pinstripe or chalkstripe ones in the said shades of grey. IMHO, the key to success is the shirt which has to be plain solid in pale colors, the best of which being sky blue.

    A silk charcoal knit tie cannot be that perfectly matched with winter attire, however I believe that it has the advantage to offer a twist to plain spring-summer suits as long as other elements (like the shirt) remain less "pronounced". This also applies to Tone-To-Tone ones, although here I believe that some color offerings may have their place in the fall-winter wardrobe as well. The image of the Forest Green Tone-To-Tone which was found on the web is a testament to this:

    [​IMG]

    I believe that there are a lot of gentlemen who, having solid knit ties in a special place in their collection, flirt the idea of acquiring some horizontal ones, being afraid at the same time of "proper" color combinations. Perhaps, Tone-To-Tone knit ties are (or should I say were) here to "bridge" this gap, offering a mid-way solution; in a way being a stepping stone to a "true" horizontal stripe knit tie, which BTW is perhaps one of the most interesting ties!

    Now a small critique; I cannot recall if Tone-To-Tone line was launched before or after the zigzag one, a favorite to all of us and a line which enjoys great success. To the best of my knowledge, VM offered the following six colors:

    1. Rust: a successful color, following the current fad on this shade
    2. Navy: a staple color, again with no problems in its acceptance
    3. Forest Green: perhaps the most handsome offering in this make-up

    The following three colors enjoyed less success in gentlemen's choices, consequently they all found themselves in the outlet section of the VM site:
    4. (Dark) Brown: another staple color, yet with less acceptance this time; now sold out
    5. Cream: an interesting under certain conditions summer proposition; now sold out
    6. Charcoal: a difficult, challenging color, needing careful combination choices

    Finally, the tie in question is offered at €55.00, an attractive price, way less than the original €95.00, which is considered steep by a lot of gentlemen.

    Best

    Dimitris
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2016
  5. DavidLane

    DavidLane Senior member

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    @Bespoke DJP This is all wonderful, but what is your purpose? Are you hocking ties or trying to create a discussion? I am a big fan of knit ties myself, but your writing seems to always lead back to some source for knit ties you have.

    If you are trying to sell ties that's all fine and well, but the title of your thread suggests a discussion, which seems to be a lead in to some sort of a disguised sales pitch.

    DL-
     
  6. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Copy-pasting an old post of mine,

    It seems to me that there are four different kinds of silk knits:

    1 - Almost flat and light, a sort of piquet weave. These are sold by cheaper retailers such as TM Lewin, and I consider them too ugly to wear.
    2 - Crunchy and airy: I have some of these by Borsalino, Les Copains and Polo. I really like them.
    3 - Crunchy and loose: this is the Howard Yount variety. Many other brands sell these. They're not bad at all and I wear them happily.
    4 - Crunchy and tightly woven: this is the Drakes variety. I consider them a better version of (3) and slightly more formal than (2) and really like them.

    I wear 2, 3 and 4 (and the odd jersey weave), but 4 give me that little extra satisfaction when I tie them. I don't claim that this in any way reflects an objective superiority of those ties.
     
  7. MrTRC

    MrTRC Senior member

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    Hmmm...@DavidLane , i don't infer that at all - a sales pitch/ shilling et al!. It is interesting how people glean different things from the same set of data. Admittedly, recalling the several colour ways of the ties of a vendor is a bit odd. Do we have a knit tie anorak here? A A sartorial rain man? cri de la soie wonk? Something less chanrming?

    Anyhow, Dear @Bespoke DJP , tie could be viewed as an attractive price. Viola Milano is rated highly by members of our community so it could viewed as thus but i still question the use of such a tie.

    I guess i like knit ties:
    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'd be very happy with 2,3,4,5,8,10, Mr.TRC

    ---

    The tie in my first picture is orange cashmere from Sozzi via NMWA
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2016
  9. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior member

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    Dear @DavidLane Hi,

    Thank you for your contribution, I welcome comments even of this nature.

    You may refer to my post #14, especially the final phrase. Even post #16 to get an idea. I would suggest you to read the other posts as well. No selling here; not even preparing a future clientele! Only an objective presentation - as detailed as can be - of knit ties along with a critique wherever this is possible from an amateur in the clothing sector.

    I fully understand that some fellow members are somehow affiliated to vendors, but this is NOT the case here! Sorry if I disappoint you. This independence allows me - and I have an open invitation to all fellow SFers - to discuss on knit ties. I think I had my piece on an horizontal bought by NMWA, and lately on the VM Tone-To-Tone as an overall line.

    FYI, my knit ties are all Sozzi, bought by Sozzi directly, Henry Carter, NMWA in this time order.

    I hope that by reading this, and by re-visiting the Thread you will re-consider.

    Cheers

    Dimitris
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Here is one of my favorite knit ties in a heather brown and blue color that is very versatile. It has a nice, silky feel. I think the subtle heather makes the tie more visually interesting and since I'm often wearing some navy or tan/brown it coordinates nicely.

    Another one of my favorite ties which also happens to be a silky knit is this purple with white. It really coordinates nicely with a white shirt and navy jacket.

    When in doubt be safe and wear a solid but when you are confident with colors a subtle mix offers much more. Both ties are by Luciano Barbera from the olive colored label era.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  11. DavidLane

    DavidLane Senior member

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    I read this thread when I was tired. I didn't mind either way, I just was confused by how the writing was phrased and wanted some clarification as to the direction this was headed.

    On the topic, I have multiple knits, mostly navy and shades of green. I will shoot some images soon. I actually think the XL from Land's End of all places are really well made ties.

    I do have one multi color knit via KW, and when I first got it I wore it all the time. Now for some reason I find it really hard to wear. The brown/blue mix contrast within the tie doesn't work that well with tweeds which is one of my favorite times to wear one. Its nice with a chambray shirt, but seems to clash with my other jackets.

    If anyone has a similar tie, I wouldn't mind seeing a few combinations.

    DL-
     
  12. MrTRC

    MrTRC Senior member

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    No love for the grey no 9 ( Actually grey with purple dots), @Claghorn ?

    I echo @GusW 's point that subtle mix-cloured/ bi-color/ tricoloured knits etc are lovely and that solids are the way to go for most. As i find knits are often a statement on their own.

    I have an unusual but stunning brown silk crunchy with a subtle waffle-esque weave by Dior of all places, which i obtained from my grandfather-in-law, he told me it was bought in the early 60s which i should take a pic of sometime. I seldom wear it as it has the Dior logo embroidered on the silk a few inches from the bottom so i am very conscious when i wear it and have it worn under a cardigan or other layer before i don my jacket.
     
  13. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior member

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    Dear @radicaldog

    Welcome to this Thread. I remember your post in the exquisite "Neckties: A Discussion Thread" that @Claghorn has started last year. We all also remember that you posted a picture - which BTW is now found in my image data base - and I would appreciate if you could re-post it here. Of course, if you have any updated pictures like the previous one, or in the wild shots, they are very welcome.

    Finally, I would be much obliged if all gentlemen share provenance and make-up details of their knit ties.

    Waiting for your future posts & enjoy this thread as well!

    Cheers

    Dimitris
     
  14. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior member

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    Hi,

    Thank you very much for posting and welcome to this Thread.

    I would say that your ties are awesome! I could definitely buy / wear both ties. Can you please inform us:
    a) where did you buy them from; on-line vendor or brick-and-mortar shop?
    b) which is precisely the width of each tie?

    Enjoy them in good health!

    Dimitris
     
  15. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior member

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    Dear Gentlemen Hi,

    Dear @MrTRC, we do have our moments..."knit tie anorak"...nice, what does this mean? I hope it's not a curse or something!

    I have no recollection of Viola's or other vendors' offerings as my memory is thin; I just keep a recent image file of various make-ups. I always try to be precise in basic parameters, that is why I keep on asking all gentlemen to furnish this information.

    I was observing your Sozzi-made Shibumi zigzags which are very nice. I didn't know that they previously kept both brand tags, as the current images in their site suggest Shibumi-only brand tag. Perhaps this is of lesser importance for a lot of gentlemen, but I would prefer to have the provenance of the original maker in my ties irrespective of vendor (exactly what Greg does)

    You just answered a part of a question that I was about to ask you: are Sozzi solids, plain or with dots? Now we all know that the Grey is with purple dots (until recently offered by SkoAB), but what about the Forest Green and the Burgundy? Could you please post photos?


    Dear @Claghorn we share the same preference for MrTRC's knits, they are so nice! I had been thinking about the Grey with purple dots as well (along with a Forest Green with yellow dots) from SkoAB, but I was not certain as to their width!

    Finally, since your photo does not reveal the edge of your Sozzi rust tie that you bought from NMWA, could you please inform us as to its edge and its width? I can only hope that Greg will be offering the cashmere-wool make-up for the following Fall / Winter season!

    Best

    Dimitris
     
  16. turkoftheplains

    turkoftheplains Senior member

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    Crunchy, square (but no strong objection to pointed), 7-8 cm (7.5 would be ideal), always silk, always solid. I would bend the solids rule for bicolored, maybe for the right dots, but I really don't like horizontal stripes (or any other patterned knit for that matter.) The combination of simplicity and textural interest is what makes knits so great in the first place place.

    That said, it's true that I just generally hate horizontal stripes on CM clothing.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2016
  17. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I dare say they have done the same as myself and found the manufacturer of them and gone direct to bypass sozzi, which in that case would not have a sozzi label. Just speculating of course.
     
  18. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior member

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    DL Hi,

    It's OK. I would be happy to see the pictures of your knit ties at your own pace.

    If I had the KW multi-color knit in brown/blue mix I would wear it with a navy blazer and beige trousers as a central theme and then I could elaborate on it. As far as the shirt is concerned, you are right a chambray is a good idea, a pale sky blue being another one. Perhaps fellow SFers who have sported this tie may offer other alternatives as well.

    Cheers

    Dimitris
     
  19. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior member

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    Jason Hi,

    Since you are speaking out of experience, your argument should be valid, right? My question though is whether they do the same thing with the other lines. I think that silk solids are their "basic" line, so do we know what happens there? Or even in the cashmere/wool one?

    You know that I always value your opinion!

    Take care

    Dimitris
     
  20. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior member

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    Dear @turkoftheplains Hi,

    Welcome to this Thread, I hope you will enjoy it!

    I think it is crystal-clear: you hate horizontal-stripe knit ties! The mere fact that some gentlemen - like myself - are pretty fond of this type of make-up does not affect your position; we are not here to change ideas, but to exchange ones!

    I am reading with interest your preferred width - 7-8cm - and would appreciate if while posting pictures you could share pertinent information as well. I believe that everybody would like to see pictures of your collection should you find time of course.

    Waiting for your next post.

    Best

    Dimitris
     

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