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** Quintessential Crockett & Jones Thread ** (reviews, quality, etc...)

ha er

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I've had the eskdales in brown grain.
but as my feet are more to the slimmer side, the last didn't work for me.
 

DorianGreen

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I've had the eskdales in brown grain.
but as my feet are more to the slimmer side, the last didn't work for me.

I understand, a good fit is obviously essential and comfort is as important as aesthetics, but cant's overlook that the Northcote is a sort of hybrid that does not appeal to me.

Fortunately though tastes are different.
 
Last edited:

ha er

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welcome!

it is a matter of fashion too. the chiseled lasts were popular ten years ago with the bond movies, where daniel craig wears northcote, tetbury, norwich and alex modells.

at the moment the fashion industry try to push us to more rounded and bulky lasts.
 

Menninki

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I prefer cross-lacing for derbies and parallel lacing for oxfords.
There is somewhere a web-page only on lacing styles. Will have to look, if I can find the adress for you.
Thanks. I did study that site and some others and they are really helpful. However I am curious if anyone has a lacing tips for specifically for low volume feet. That site does not really consider this point of view, but I know now that the "shop lacing" is tighter than criss-cross from personal experience. I just don't like it.

Does anyone use straight bar lacing (the one for oxfords) for derby boots?
 

Watchman1

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IMG_6973.jpeg


1st Gen Warlow

Cheers!
 

Mr.Anderson

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Thanks. I did study that site and some others and they are really helpful. However I am curious if anyone has a lacing tips for specifically for low volume feet.
I have "low volume feet" and I use this method:
"as it allows the uppers of the shoe to come completely together in the middle without bunching or corrugation"
 

Pascal1980

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the northcotes have arrived.
a essential gap in the collection is closed!
View attachment 2227853
Hello ha_er,

the boots look excellent, and I am also looking for a dressy derby boot. I have the C&J "Perth" from the handgrade collection in mind.

The Northcote would also be great. How does the wax calf compare in its shine and polishing to the classic calf? How do you polish it?

Enjoy wearing them and best regards

Pascal
 

ha er

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hi pascal,
thank's, I'm really happy, as the northcotes are a now discontinued model. last pair in my size at fulham.es
the leather seams a bit thigger and softer compared to hallams in brown burnished calf.
it is a bit hot at the moment, so I see forward wearing them (in good health) maybe in september🤩
cheers!

(for care I use shoecreams from saphir)
 

Pascal1980

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hi pascal,
thank's, I'm really happy, as the northcotes are a now discontinued model. last pair in my size at fulham.es
the leather seams a bit thigger and softer compared to hallams in brown burnished calf.
it is a bit hot at the moment, so I see forward wearing them (in good health) maybe in september🤩
cheers!

(for care I use shoecreams from saphir)
Thanks Ha_er,

they still have the Northcote in my size UK 7. Hence the wax calf is comparable to regular calf and can be polished?

I also use Saphir and "Siegol", the new Burgol after the names dispute.

Best regards

Pascal
 

ha er

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go for it !
I see northcotes as rugged, bond-style combat boots, will do no mirror gloss polishing.
if you'll wear them as dress boots do as you like...
 

Menninki

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I have "low volume feet" and I use this method:
"as it allows the uppers of the shoe to come completely together in the middle without bunching or corrugation"
Well this took a bit of learning, but it does pull the shoe tighter. In my case the facings touch each other, so this looks pretty good as well. I will wear this for few weeks and see how I like it. Thanks for the tip!
 

ha er

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Pascal1980

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Other options are the following:

1.) Asking the manufacture to relast the show 0,5 sizes smaller. Crockett & Jones does this and it is possible for them, actually fairly easy. A new outsole is then also added to the shoe/boot for the 0,5 sizes smaller shoe.

2.) Ask your local cobbler/shoemaker to relast your shoe. Some can do that, if they have the tools and generic lasts that they also use for bespoke shoe making.

3.) If neither the manufacturer, nor your local cobbler/shoemaker can relast your shoe/boot to make if 0.5 sizes smaller, you can either a) let a tongue pad be sewn in, or b) a heel cushion be sewn in, or c) a new thinker and foot formed insole made of cork and leather be clued in.

This way a shoe can be adjusted easily and reduced with relasting and the three adjustmen a full size smaller. In particular the forefoot volume is easy to reduce with a new insole that is thicker in the forefoot.

Best regards

Pascal
 

Menninki

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Other options are the following:

1.) Asking the manufacture to relast the show 0,5 sizes smaller. Crockett & Jones does this and it is possible for them, actually fairly easy. A new outsole is then also added to the shoe/boot for the 0,5 sizes smaller shoe.

2.) Ask your local cobbler/shoemaker to relast your shoe. Some can do that, if they have the tools and generic lasts that they also use for bespoke shoe making.

3.) If neither the manufacturer, nor your local cobbler/shoemaker can relast your shoe/boot to make if 0.5 sizes smaller, you can either a) let a tongue pad be sewn in, or b) a heel cushion be sewn in, or c) a new thinker and foot formed insole made of cork and leather be clued in.

This way a shoe can be adjusted easily and reduced with relasting and the three adjustmen a full size smaller. In particular the forefoot volume is easy to reduce with a new insole that is thicker in the forefoot.

Best regards

Pascal
Thanks again for you both for the tips. I am pretty ok with the last, which is 325. It is not perfect for me, but I can live with it. I only recently learned that I can (micro) adjust the fit with different lacing styles which is what I am investigating now. If it helps a bit, then all the better.

Regarding tongue pads etc. I tend to think that if one really needs them, then the last is simply a wrong one and one should look for other lasts.
 

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