• Welcome to our newest affiliate vendor, Passus Shoes. We are very happy to welcome our newest affiliate vendor, Passus Shoes. Passus shoes was founded by long term members of the forum and veterans of the shoes business. and is dedicated to crafting fine shoes in Budapest in a time honored tradition. Please help me give them a warm welcome in their new affiliate vendor thread.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Quick question about hem stitching

computerpro3

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2008
Messages
299
Reaction score
5
I realize this is kind of a hard question to answer since I can't remember the exact term, but perhaps someone can educate me on the matter.

I brought a pair of Incotex pants to a new tailor to have them altered to my height. The tailor's assistant looked at the bottom of the pants and then asked the tailor something like, "Paul, should we top-stitch this or "xxxxxxxx-stitch" this?" (xxxxx represents where I forgot the term he asked about)

The tailor answered something to the effect of that top-stitching would be less expensive and if I was okay with that, it's what he'd do.

I should have asked the difference then and there but was embarrassed I didn't know what the terms meant. I've since googled topstitching, but does anyone know what that second term might be? I assume there are only a few ways to do it, so perhaps someone knows.

Is topstitching somehow inferior to this other method for Incotex pants?


Thanks, I appreciate it.

EDIT: Could "chainstitch" be the possible term?
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,051
Reaction score
2,594
Topstitch is what you see on jeans. Outlet of hem is folded and turned up and then stitched with a straight stitch machine. The stitch runs thru the cloth and you see the row of stitching on the top of the cloth. This is a visible stitch on the face of the cloth.

The xxx is either done by hand or a blind stitch machine on the inside of the trouser leg and not visible on the outside face of the trouser leg.

The topstitch method is quick and strong, as it will not come open but not appropriate for nicer trousers and almost never done on wool trousers.
Using a blind stitch machine is just as fast, the stitching does not show on the outside so it is cleaner looking. If the stitch comes undone it will unravel around the hem.

Using a cross stitch xxxxx is done by hand, requires the hem be basted in place first and takes the most time and skill to make the stitches not show on the outside of the trouser leg. That is why it costs more.
 

computerpro3

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2008
Messages
299
Reaction score
5
Thank you! I appreciate it.

So in the future, I should request a cross stitch even on casual pants like Incotex Chino Lino's I guess. Oh well, lesson learned.
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,051
Reaction score
2,594
If it is important to you and you don't mind paying a little more, ask to have them done by hand.
If you want a cleaner finished look and save a few bucks, ask to have it done with the blind stitch machine.
Save the machine topstitch for jeans or dockers type casual clothes.

Main thing is to ask that the hem be done at an angle, longer at the back, angled up to the front.
 

calvinloke

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2008
Messages
363
Reaction score
2
Tailors here always do a topstitch whenever you request for cuffs. Damn.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How do you feel about spending money on non-essential goods during the Covid-19 crisis?

  • I don't want to spend money at a time of economic uncertainty, even if I could afford it.

  • I feel compelled to spend to help small businesses that are struggling.

  • I reduced my budget for non-essential goods and I'm not spending at the moment.

  • Not much has changed for me and I'm still buying stuff I can't afford.


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
438,424
Messages
9,447,072
Members
197,978
Latest member
beautifulgifts3
Top