Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Oct 19, 2004.
To be completely honest, I cannot answer you. I have not seen Alan in a few years and have not a clue who is making his MTM shirts.
Twenty years ago, that would have been my MTM company, Custom Shirts by Denhof (long since closed Thank God.). At the time, I supplied Alan with a set of MTM patterns which he may still be using. It was good pattern set, having combined the attributes and discarded the detriments of the German and Italian methods. At the time I also made Alan's personal shirts, and we worked together to incorporate some of the more kabbazian elements from his personal pattern into the MTM patterns.
That's what you're paying for. The ability to make that statement about a shirt whose fabric I assume you like. No more need be said.
However, as to why Alan is criticized... It's simple. Alan writes (and quite well, I might add). Not only does he write, but he actually has the temerity to express his opinion. Every time he expresses same, someone gets turned off. Express yourself frequently enough, as he has done, and you have to have made a hell of a lot of people upset. Add to that the fact that Alan's taste in clothing isn't exactly what you would call "mainstream".
Nonetheless, as hundreds of posts will attest, Alan's collection of books by far outdistances Boyer, Roetzel, and anyone else in the field. Boyer provides an essential discourse. Roetzel provides a Eurocentric coffee table book. The sum of Alan's writings provide a bible for thousands of avid fans.
If you like your Flusser shirts as much as you say, ignore opinions to the contrary and just enjoy.
You could argue that its TA that is overpriced since its not really bespoke either, but MTM.
This is an interesting thread. You really caught my attention with your comment about the collars in Flusser's MTM shirts:
"Especially the collar. Nice and high, perfect "V," the points have a beautiful shape, and (best of all) I never have to adjust my tie. I can pull it tight into the collar, and it stays there (without throttling me) all day, and without showing so much as a hint of collar band above the knot."
The only shirts I've got whose collars both look good and hold a tie well are "MTM" Charvet from BG. While the fabrics are beautiful, the shirts are MTM only in the sense that the collar size and sleeve lengths are right. The body size is fixed to the collar size, and the diameters of the cuffs can't be changed.
So if you would, please give us more details on your MTM shirt experience with Flusser. Does he deliver a single shirt to gauge satisfaction and allow for tweaks before completing your first order? Can cuff diameters be customized? How would you describe the range of fabrics, with respect to quality, style, etc.? Thanks.
Carl and I have thousands of fabrics on hand because we're fabric fetishists. I because I'm nuts and Carl because he also sells fabric. Our proclivities happen to benefit our clients who cannot visualize a finished garment from a swatch in a book. Nonetheless, one cannot expect a custom tailor or designer to invest six figures in on-the-shelf shirtings in order to be considered in the running as a provider of shirts. In M-T-M it isn't as much the factory which counts - it is the expertise of the fitter and their ability to control the factory's output which make all of the difference. At this point in his decades-long career, Alan certainly has that ability.
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