Questions to ask a local tailor about bespoke

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Standard Toaster, Sep 5, 2009.

  1. Standard Toaster

    Standard Toaster Senior member

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    I've just found a small local menswear shop (the tweedy sort) that does bespoke. It's run by an old bloke, who seems respectable enough. He says a bespoke jacket will be around £600-700 depending on the fabric. It seems a bit too cheap, but I'm considering it. What questions should I ask before taking the plunge?
    • Fully canvassed?
    • High armholes?
    • Working cuffs?
    • Basted fitting?
    • Gorge height? Are bespoke tailors prepared to deviate from what they normally do?
    • Anything else?
    edit: This will be my first bespoke purchase.
     


  2. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Yes, they should normally be able to deviate from their usual stuff. Gorge height is not a sea change anyway.

    £6-700 could be OK for a provincial tailor (I know a guy in Bristol in that price range -- his work seems decent, though I never tried. I use a provincial tailor in Italy). I'd agree that it's worth a try. Where are you based?

    Your list seems pretty much complete. Maybe you also want to ask him not to use ready-made shoulder pads (which is not to say that there shouldn't be any padding/wadding -- that's a style choice).

    Good luck!
     


  3. Millerp

    Millerp Senior member

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    You should ask him to show you a completed jacket, preferably worn by the person
    who commissioned it.

    All the bespoke details in the world don't matter a bit if the garment doesn't fit
    and look good.
     


  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Where the work is done.

    How would he style clothing for your body type.

    What would he change/adjust/improve from what you wear presently.

    What does he view as your fitting issues.

    Will I look like an old bloke or a young dude when he is finished

    Tell him how fitted or easy you want your clothes to fit.
     


  5. Kentishman

    Kentishman Senior member

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    A couple of tailors near my office in London (Sims & MacDonald and Connock & Lockie) do bespoke jackets starting at that price, so it sounds about right, I'd say.

    Hope you'll be able to post the results when complete!
     


  6. Albern

    Albern Senior member

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    To the OP. You should also ensure it's handmade otherwise it's no longer bespoke but is merely high-end MTM. I'm assuming he'll be drafting a pattern for you.
     


  7. taillefer

    taillefer New Member

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    Yes, they should normally be able to deviate from their usual stuff. Gorge height is not a sea change anyway.

    £6-700 could be OK for a provincial tailor (I know a guy in Bristol in that price range -- his work seems decent, though I never tried. I use a provincial tailor in Italy). I'd agree that it's worth a try. Where are you based?

    Your list seems pretty much complete. Maybe you also want to ask him not to use ready-made shoulder pads (which is not to say that there shouldn't be any padding/wadding -- that's a style choice).

    Good luck!


    Hello,

    This is my first post so apologies if I make any mistakes in etiquette etc, howevr I wonder if you could confirm the name of the tailor in Bristol you mentioned?

    Thanks
     


  8. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Hello,

    This is my first post so apologies if I make any mistakes in etiquette etc, howevr I wonder if you could confirm the name of the tailor in Bristol you mentioned?

    Thanks


    Territo, on Park St (towards the bottom, on the left side as you're going up. It's on the first floor, so look at the old fashioned writing on the windows. I've used him for alterations, and it was fine.)
     


  9. JibranK

    JibranK Senior member

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    I'm in exactly the same situations. In which city are you located? I ask because we might be thinking of the same tailor.
     


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