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questions about shoemaking

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mfais, Jan 30, 2012.

  1. mfais

    mfais Senior member

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    can a goodyear welt be done by hand or is it strictly done by machine?

    if a shoe maker is handsewing the shoe, does that automatically mean it is hand welted?
     
  2. rebel222

    rebel222 Senior member

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    Goodyear refers to the machine that does the stitching, so no.
     
  3. mfais

    mfais Senior member

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    so this is wrong?

    http://havenshop.ca/collections/latest-arrivals/products/for-haven-navy-country-brogue-shoe

    We got together with Mark McNairy to design a small footwear capsule collection made exclusively for HAVEN. Produced to the highest standards in Northamptonshire, England by old school shoe cobblers Sander & Sanders Co. For this model, we selected a beautiful deep navy suede on a Country Brogue upper, accompanied by a hand stitch Goodyear welt on a Natural crepe wedge sole and the addition of contrasting white round laces and eyelets give these a more casual look to your typical brogue.
     
  4. rebel222

    rebel222 Senior member

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    Yes, and I highly doubt you can get a hand-stitched, welted shoe for $400.
     
  5. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    It's mistaken. Somewhere in the not too distant past, Goodyear construction became so pervasive a method for producing shoes...even expensive shoes...that in the minds of those not intimate with shoemaking techniques "Goodyear" came to mean any method of construction that employs a welt.

    Goodyear invented the machine that stitches welt and upper to a ribbing called gemming...usually made of canvas...which is cemented/glued to the insole (often a synthetic composite or a very low grade of leather) . The glue is the binding agent and, as with any seam, it is only as strong as its weakest component.

    Hand stitching the welt and upper to a canvas rib can be done by hand, but the work involved is not significantly less that stitching the welt and upper directly to the insole.

    Since the whole point of Goodyear construction and the gemming is to reduce cost and time, it makes no sense, financial or otherwise, to do it by hand. Nothing is gained in the way of quality (much is lost, in fact) and the extra labour to do it by hand would not be justifiable.
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2012
  6. mfais

    mfais Senior member

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    thank you both
     

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