Questions about "luxury" shirting

[Thomas Auer]

What would you consider to be the sweet spot between the fully handmade shirts and machine-made shirts, assuming they use the same fabric?

Little late response, but I think it's fair to say that from a technical stand point, very few hand operations add anything of substance to the construction of a shirt (although many will tell you otherwise). Also, no handmade armhole will last as long or stay as clean, as proper machine stitching. I really like the aesthetic of a handmade buttonhole or shoulder and armhole seams, so that, to me, is the only reason for doing it. It should also be mentioned that the quality of hand sewing varies drastically between makers and all too often, it really looks messy. If you want something handmade and done - for example - in Europe(other than the south of Italy) you will easily approach the 300€ mark

 

[fatpauljackson]

@Shirtmaven or any of the other senior members here, any bespoke shirt tailors that you would particularly recommend in London (including visiting tailors) or Hong Kong?

I've tried Turnbull and Asser which ended up ok but not great (and service really not amazing in terms of fixing things), as well as Stephen Lachter who made a really nice shirt but is highly inconsistent (batch of four shirts had one that fit perfectly and the other three were all literally different measurements which he verified was true when I brought them back in). So definitely still on the hunt for more permanent options aside from Proper Cloth which I do use. Hidalgo Brothers is one I have had good experiences on just a few shirts so far. Will be trying Ascot Chang in HK soon.

Pity I cannot try Cego as I have moved out of NYC (and well America).

Thanks!

 

[Shirtmaven]

@Shirtmaven or any of the other senior members here, any bespoke shirt tailors that you would particularly recommend in London (including visiting tailors) or Hong Kong?

I've tried Turnbull and Asser which ended up ok but not great (and service really not amazing in terms of fixing things), as well as Stephen Lachter who made a really nice shirt but is highly inconsistent (batch of four shirts had one that fit perfectly and the other three were all literally different measurements which he verified was true when I brought them back in). So definitely still on the hunt for more permanent options aside from Proper Cloth which I do use. Hidalgo Brothers is one I have had good experiences on just a few shirts so far. Will be trying Ascot Chang in HK soon.

Pity I cannot try Cego as I have moved out of NYC (and well America).

Thanks!

Thanks for the shout out. At the moment my shop is quite busy.
You can try james who had been the cutter at Budd

[email protected]
The fellow at Dege & Skinner is another option.

 

[JohnMRobie]

@Shirtmaven or any of the other senior members here, any bespoke shirt tailors that you would particularly recommend in London (including visiting tailors) or Hong Kong?

I've tried Turnbull and Asser which ended up ok but not great (and service really not amazing in terms of fixing things), as well as Stephen Lachter who made a really nice shirt but is highly inconsistent (batch of four shirts had one that fit perfectly and the other three were all literally different measurements which he verified was true when I brought them back in). So definitely still on the hunt for more permanent options aside from Proper Cloth which I do use. Hidalgo Brothers is one I have had good experiences on just a few shirts so far. Will be trying Ascot Chang in HK soon.

Pity I cannot try Cego as I have moved out of NYC (and well America).

Thanks!

D’Avino is visiting London next month. I’ve been very happy with my shirts from Fiorenzo

 

[fatpauljackson]

One other question... way earlier in the thread, the intial discussion centered around thread count. Again for the more experienced members, what would you say is a good sweet spot for thread count? High enough for a nice feel / make, but low enough so as not to be excessively delicate and a perceived waste of money (e.g., just going higher because you can, despite the diminishing returns). Thanks.

 

[JohnMRobie]

One other question... way earlier in the thread, the intial discussion centered around thread count. Again for the more experienced members, what would you say is a good sweet spot for thread count? High enough for a nice feel / make, but low enough so as not to be excessively delicate and a perceived waste of money (e.g., just going higher because you can, despite the diminishing returns). Thanks.

This comes down to personal preferences and your use case I think. Also what you’re trying to have made. 170/2 poplin is my sweet spot for my standard shirts but I find that 170/2 can feel quite different depending on the mill. Alumo, Riva, G&R and Bonfanti all feel a little different. I also really like DJA poplin 200/2.

For plain white shirts I like the 140/2 twill from Thomas Mason called Super Hampton for a little more opacity and a little more crispness.

The price isn’t a huge consideration between them to be honest.

 

[jonathanS]

One other question... way earlier in the thread, the intial discussion centered around thread count. Again for the more experienced members, what would you say is a good sweet spot for thread count? High enough for a nice feel / make, but low enough so as not to be excessively delicate and a perceived waste of money (e.g., just going higher because you can, despite the diminishing returns). Thanks.

I think it depends upon how you wear your shirts. In my experience, English shirtmakers tend to make really nice shirts to wear with neckties. Whereas Italians make nicer collars to wear without neckties (and they’re quite nice with a necktie). I have a closet full of turnbull and asser shirts, but I don’t wear them. I almost exclusively wear my Italian ones.

my shirtmaker is in Florence & only travels to Japan as far as I know. I also think you’ll get better consistency from Florence or Milan.

If you need an English shirtmaker and money isn’t an issue, I’ve heard good things about will whiting. But I have no experience. His collars look really nice though!!

 

[SpallaPerfetta]

Which Alumo fabrics would you recommend for a tuxedo/dinner shirt? Voile?

 

[fatpauljackson]

I think it depends upon how you wear your shirts. In my experience, English shirtmakers tend to make really nice shirts to wear with neckties. Whereas Italians make nicer collars to wear without neckties (and they’re quite nice with a necktie). I have a closet full of turnbull and asser shirts, but I don’t wear them. I almost exclusively wear my Italian ones.

my shirtmaker is in Florence & only travels to Japan as far as I know. I also think you’ll get better consistency from Florence or Milan.

If you need an English shirtmaker and money isn’t an issue, I’ve heard good things about will whiting. But I have no experience. His collars look really nice though!!

Any recs in Milan? I go fairly regularly. Florence, no so much.

 

[jonathanS]

Any recs in Milan? I go fairly regularly. Florence, no so much.

I will ask. Standby

 

[Shirtmaven]

Which Alumo fabrics would you recommend for a tuxedo/dinner shirt? Voile?

Have you ever worn voile?
It is transparent.
It's fine with a bib or pleat.
Just don't take your jacket off.

 

[SpallaPerfetta]

Have you ever worn voile?
It is transparent.
It's fine with a bib or pleat.
Just don't take your jacket off.

I have not. What would you recommend from Alumo that’s more versatile?

 

[jonathanS]

Any recs in Milan? I go fairly regularly. Florence, no so much.

Try santolmo su misura.

While I haven’t used them from personal experience, I have a friend in their workshop. I’d imagine the work is good.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Try santolmo su misura.

While I haven’t used them from personal experience, I have a friend in their workshop. I’d imagine the work is good.

Do you know where Federica Gilardi (I guess this is the name of the camiciaia) learned the trade? I’d also like to try a milanese shirtmaker at some point. Siniscalchi and Canevelli seem to be well regarded but I’d prefer someone with whom someone has first hand experience.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Which Alumo fabrics would you recommend for a tuxedo/dinner shirt? Voile?

Supralux 120/2 is good.
Soyella is 170/2. For finer lightweight.
King Soyella is a new quality. Also 170/2 with a denser construction. I have not made for myself. Made for a couple of customers who seemed happy.
Are you planning to have self pleats, engineered pleats, or a pique (marcella) front.
I also hope you are using studs and not going for a fly front.(covered buttons)
A fly front is lazy.
I assume you asked about voile because you read it somewhere and not actually handled in person.