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Questions about Drapes, Swells, and a Suit's Silhouette

doodledoc

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I am trying to understand what type of suit features best work for my body. I do plan on getting a MTM suit, but I want a suit that would be flattering for my body type. I came across this thread on a suit's silhouette: http://putthison.com/post/14219108518/understanding-a-suits-silhouette-its-common-to.

The thread speaks about "drapes" and "swells" but doesn't explain it very well to me. Can someone explain the difference between "drape" and "swell" when it comes to suits and what type of person this works well for? Pictures with arrows/lines/circles will help.

What silhouette works best for someone with an athletic body type (broad shoulders and chest but a smaller waist - drop 7 or 8)?
 
Last edited:

jrd617

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I don't see drape mentioned anywhere in the post you linked to...

Anyways, drape is an excess fold of cloth that's tucked into the chest of some English and Italian suits. See the suits of Anderson and Sheppard, Rubinacci, Napoli Su Misura, Formosa, etc. It makes the wearer look more athletic, and also adds comfort and more range of motion (combined with the high armholes)

See these links

http://www.styleforum.net/t/355817/frederick-scholte-savile-row/0_50

http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/drape-cut/

http://dieworkwear.com/post/10204904409/the-beauty-of-drapes-and-swells
 
Last edited:

doodledoc

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I don't see drape mentioned anywhere in the post you linked to...

Anyways, drape is an excess fold of cloth that's tucked into the chest of some English and Italian suits. See the suits of Anderson and Sheppard, Rubinacci, Napoli Su Misura, Formosa, etc. It makes the wearer look more athletic, and also adds comfort and more range of motion (combined with the high armholes)

See these links

http://www.styleforum.net/t/355817/frederick-scholte-savile-row/0_50

http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/drape-cut/

http://dieworkwear.com/post/10204904409/the-beauty-of-drapes-and-swells

I fixed the link. The Dieworkwear post doesn't show drapes or swell to me. The author circles the sleevehead and underlines the waist but I don't see any excess cloth or folds anywhere. The jacket looks like a jacket that is sitting on a mannequin (like almost all jackets).
 
Last edited:

jrd617

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There is excess cloth at the chest in that pic. Both in the back and the front have it. You can see ripples near where the sleeves meets the armholes.


compare to this Zegna-made Tom Ford suit. Notice how the chest is cleaner

Tom+Ford+Cocktails+Support+Project+Angel+Food+uszQMtZMQUKx.jpg

tumblr_lriqem4ITY1qfex1b.jpg
 
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