• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour, our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • Hi, we have updated our Terms of Service and Privacy Policy in anticipation of the upcoming new Calfornia laws, the CCPA. If you are a resident of California, these rights pertain to you. Thanks - Styleforum Team.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Questions about Drapes, Swells, and a Suit's Silhouette

doodledoc

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2014
Messages
447
Reaction score
101
I am trying to understand what type of suit features best work for my body. I do plan on getting a MTM suit, but I want a suit that would be flattering for my body type. I came across this thread on a suit's silhouette: http://putthison.com/post/14219108518/understanding-a-suits-silhouette-its-common-to.

The thread speaks about "drapes" and "swells" but doesn't explain it very well to me. Can someone explain the difference between "drape" and "swell" when it comes to suits and what type of person this works well for? Pictures with arrows/lines/circles will help.

What silhouette works best for someone with an athletic body type (broad shoulders and chest but a smaller waist - drop 7 or 8)?
 
Last edited:

jrd617

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Messages
15,163
Reaction score
2,534
I don't see drape mentioned anywhere in the post you linked to...

Anyways, drape is an excess fold of cloth that's tucked into the chest of some English and Italian suits. See the suits of Anderson and Sheppard, Rubinacci, Napoli Su Misura, Formosa, etc. It makes the wearer look more athletic, and also adds comfort and more range of motion (combined with the high armholes)

See these links

http://www.styleforum.net/t/355817/frederick-scholte-savile-row/0_50

http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/drape-cut/

http://dieworkwear.com/post/10204904409/the-beauty-of-drapes-and-swells
 
Last edited:

doodledoc

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2014
Messages
447
Reaction score
101
I don't see drape mentioned anywhere in the post you linked to...

Anyways, drape is an excess fold of cloth that's tucked into the chest of some English and Italian suits. See the suits of Anderson and Sheppard, Rubinacci, Napoli Su Misura, Formosa, etc. It makes the wearer look more athletic, and also adds comfort and more range of motion (combined with the high armholes)

See these links

http://www.styleforum.net/t/355817/frederick-scholte-savile-row/0_50

http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/drape-cut/

http://dieworkwear.com/post/10204904409/the-beauty-of-drapes-and-swells
I fixed the link. The Dieworkwear post doesn't show drapes or swell to me. The author circles the sleevehead and underlines the waist but I don't see any excess cloth or folds anywhere. The jacket looks like a jacket that is sitting on a mannequin (like almost all jackets).
 
Last edited:

jrd617

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Messages
15,163
Reaction score
2,534
There is excess cloth at the chest in that pic. Both in the back and the front have it. You can see ripples near where the sleeves meets the armholes.


compare to this Zegna-made Tom Ford suit. Notice how the chest is cleaner

 
Last edited:

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How wide do you like your leg opening on your trousers?

  • 7”

    Votes: 59 17.2%
  • 7.5”

    Votes: 115 33.4%
  • 8”

    Votes: 104 30.2%
  • 8.5”

    Votes: 36 10.5%
  • 9”

    Votes: 14 4.1%
  • 9.5”

    Votes: 7 2.0%
  • 10”

    Votes: 1 0.3%
  • 10.5”

    Votes: 8 2.3%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
432,690
Messages
9,277,908
Members
194,717
Latest member
Bardok
Top