Question regarding D&G and others

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Andrew, May 17, 2005.

  1. Andrew

    Andrew Well-Known Member

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    So I'm in the market for a new suit, I realize the high end brands such as Brioni and Oxxford come highly recommended here. Unfortunately I don't particularly like the way these suits look on me, I prefer a less conservative, more modern silhouette. In any case, I was looking at some of the newer suits D&G has put out, I thought they looked nice. Also I'm interested if anyone here has picked up any of the RL Black Label stuff and whether or not it's worth the money or not. Costume National also occurred to me as a choice. I would definitely look for these at discount, but does anyone have experience/opinions on these brands? Obviously the construction isn't going to be exquisite, but how does it compare to higher end labels? Thanks.
     


  2. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    If I wanted modern I'd get Ralph Lauren black label.
     


  3. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    I would definitely say Costume National. Great cut, and fair pricing. Helmut Lang, Jil Sander are other good choices for a similar effect, although neither are as slim as Costume National. Dolce&Gabbana are great too, I think you're on the right track. Also, check out the suits linked on this board in the "saque suit" thread. I have never seen them in person (where I have personally owned all of the other above suits) so I cannot judge off of experience, but it's worth checking out.
     


  4. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    I was fairly impressed with a Jil Sander suit I saw recently, construction-wise.

    koji
     


  5. amirrorcrackd

    amirrorcrackd Senior member

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    Be careful to differentiate between Dolce & Gabanna and D&G. D&G is a diffusion line of lesser quality.

    Dan
     


  6. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    Of these four designers, Costume National will be the less "formal", hardly acceptable in a business environment, i.e: straight leg pants, 2 buttons SB peaked lapels, narrow shoulders (slanted, very narrow : the only designer where I have to buy 48eu instead of 46eu), lots of waist suppression, hidden (but functionnal) sleeve buttons : all in all, a very elegant suit but too many oddities to make it a business suit. I personnally only owns sportscoats, trousers and overcoat from Costume National, no suits (mainly for the reasons stated above & in suits 48 jacket comes with 48 pants, and I wear 46 pants). They are fused.
    Jil Sander is great construction, fully canvassed, very light, nice flat front pants, slightly tappered, medium rise, button fly. The jacket is narrow on the shoulders (slanted for more drape), minimal waist suppression and an overall "slim straight" silhouette. This works best if you are tall and slim, which I'm not, but the suit looks nice nonetheless. I am wearing one today and I'll try to post pictures later. This is the most acceptable business suit. Nice fabrics, nice construction, and except for the lack of lapel buttonhole, no designer "quirks".
    Dolce & Gabbana is a sharp look, call it roman with a twist; stronger shoulders than JS, the jacket's skirt flares more. The pants are tappered, flat front, with a medium low rise (lower than Jil Sander) and narrower to the ankles. This is a classic italian look, with somehow sharper angles. It's a very clean silhouette, and works nice in a business environment. They are fused.
    Helmut Lang is canvassed, minimalist silhouette with straight jacket, minimal waist suppression and flat front narrow, tappered pants. Low button stance, and narrow lapels. This would work great if you have a bit of an "athletic" fit (i.e : tall & slim but stronger upper body than Jil Sander). I can't comment more on HL since I don't own any suits, nor sportscoats from this designer. I suspect they would not look thath great on me anyway (I'm too short to pull it off).

    .luc
     


  7. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    Oh, I forgot, I commented the silhouettes from the past seasons, until now.
    Fall/Winter 2006 looks a lot different (shorter jackets, narrower lapels I guess).

    .luc
     


  8. Get Smart

    Get Smart Don't Crink

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    the new RL black label looks great, but never tried one on

    me, i like the cuts of Ozwald Boateng and Paul Smith suits, in addition to ones mentioned (Costume National, Helmet Lang etc). one of my fave suits i own is a Dolce & Gabbana, but i don't care for D&G suits (that entire line is too hippity-hoppity for me)
     


  9. sam

    sam Senior member

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    In addition, I like Margiela suits, although I haven't personally owned any. *Very* interesting fabrics and I think canvas front. Expensive though, in the ballpark of Jil Sander.
     


  10. hermes

    hermes Senior member

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    i wear lang, sander and ysl rive gauche for everyday business attire

    all have that modern cut silhouette as luc-e outlined so well above and i think you can't go wrong with any of them
     


  11. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Jil Sander and Helmut Lang are the most business appropriate, although my personal favorite is Costume National, with Helmut Lang a close second. I'm average height but pretty slight (well, in the States anyway, in Asia I am A *giant*)
     


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