Question re. pants fit/leg and body shape

[poseidon]

Hello esteemed friends:

I was hoping that all the experts and masters of tailoring and fit here could enlighten me as to what fit should I request when having them made. I have a long natural waist (distance from navel to crotch), and by extension rather short legs ...which is compounded from the soccer and skiing that I used to do, which means I have a rather prominent behind and thicker legs in comparison to my upperbody. I would like to try to create the illusions of a slimmer silouhette and try to elongate my legs if possible...I believe that shorter pants with little break is one way to do that? But what about the fit, taper, and height of waist? should i opt for pants which are more tapered/slim or fuller in length? and should pants sit at the natural waist or slightly lower?

Also, because I have a natural waist, there is some distance from the beginning of my inseam/crotch to the bottom of my jacket, is there anyway to remedy that?

Thanks so much again for all your help, my knowledge and love of clothes would have gone no where without the help and advice of this forum!

ZH

 

[mensimageconsultant]

This is the sort of issue for which people hire image consultants.

Without pictures (which likely would show problems not mentioned) and knowing whether the issue is limited to suits, only some vague advice can be given:
No cuffs, little or no break
Pants at the natural waist
Pants legs wide enough to fit comfortably and not prematurely wear out, but no looser than necessary
The rise long enough to fit comfortably and not wrinkle at the crotch, but no longer than necessary.
Usually non-black pants that are darker than the upper-body clothing
Jackets that just cover the behind