Question on Italian Bespoke Shoes

[Eustace Tilley]

I recently received this price list from a bespoke shoemaker, but am having trouble understanding the various construction methods listed:

Dear Sir,

The prices for hand-made bespoke shoes are:

- €650,00 for Black manufactures
- €950 for Norwegian manufactures
- €1100 for GoodYear manufactures

Now, I know that Italian shoemakers use the term "Goodyear" to describe the location of the stitching and not the use of a goodyear machine. But:

1. Is Norwegian = Norvogese? If so, shouldn't it be more expensive than the Goodyear?

2. Also, what is "Black" construction? Initially I thought it may mean Blake, but I understand Blake / Rapid to be glued, and so, it would not be a handmade shoe.

Anyone know the correct answer?

ET

 

[chorse123]

Blake is stitched, not glued.

 

[RJman]

Black is a misspelling/mistransliteration of Blake. Blake is a form of machine stitching; the manner in which it is performed means that a shoe cannot be hand stitched in that way.

Neither Blake nor Blake-Rapid are glued.

Norvogese [sic] ought to be Norwegian. Not sure why it's cheaper than Goodyear here.

 

[von Rothbart]

Black means Blake?

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Thanks guys. But shouldn't the Norvogese be more expensive than the Goodyear, given the handstitching involved?

Also, how can a Blake or Blake / Rapid shoe be handmade? I understand its not glued, but if there is one row of stitching inside the shoe it has to be done by machine. Is that right?

EDIT: Saw RJs edits.

Anyone else know?

 

[RJman]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Also, how can a Blake or Blake / Rapid shoe be handmade? I understand its not glued, but if there is one row of stitching inside the shoe it has to be done by machine. Is that right?

Meh, dunno. I suppose the artisan in question may be liberal with the definition of "hand-made", rather like Armani's use of "'hand made' to measure" to describe his new pseudo-custom line. Still, this shoemaker may create an individual last for you so that the shoes are bespoke and might do some hand stitching if the design calls for it.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

I suspect the same - custom last but the shoe is machine stitched.

 

[RJman]

There are also custom shoemakers who have a factory make your last based on your measurements. From what I've heard they do a good job.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by RJman

There are also custom shoemakers who have a factory make your last based on your measurements. From what I've heard they do a good job.

That sounds like an awesome value. I don't need the lightest construction and finer leather, just a nicely fitting shoe. Isn't this what Tricker's does?

 

[citoyen]

i think the italian definition to what is "handmade" is one of the loosest definitions...like anything that had hand-contact is "handmade"...

concerning the
blake / blake rapid issue i humbly quote my own posting....*ehrm*

i think as well the artisan might have mixed up black/blake...perhaps due to pronounciation...

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

That sounds like an awesome value. I don't need the lightest construction and finer leather, just a nicely fitting shoe. Isn't this what Tricker's does?

Yes.

Thanks citoyen.

 

[speedster.8]

afaik there are 3versions of norvegese
The simplest is blake with norwegese finish ...

As for the correct builup from this particular maufacturer you might have to ask them.

I am intregued by Peron&Peron ...

 

[speedster.8]

You could check out this thread, as you may have missed that http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...ight=norvegese

 

[janne melkersson]

Blake stitched could of course be done by hand. That is the way it was done until Blake invented the machine and is still in practice for those who couldn't afford to buy a machine or those who for other reasons decide to sew it by hand..

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Thanks janne and speedster.