question for Kabbaz.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jamesbond, Mar 12, 2005.

  1. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

    Messages:
    1,272
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2003
    Location:
    East Hampton & New York
    LA Guy, if I may be so bold as to quote myself from Page 1 hereof:
    As previously stated, many types of shirts are made to be worn untucked. Dress shirts with tails are not among them.
    Bait. [​IMG]
     


  2. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,802
    Likes Received:
    46
    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2003
    Perhaps, but not half as stupid as moronicisms such as this.
     


  3. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

    Messages:
    1,272
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2003
    Location:
    East Hampton & New York
    Though I agree, may I point out that:
    a] This is not a question -and-
    b] If it were, you are 15 minutes late (don't pull time zone sh*t on me) and your partner is notably absent.
     


  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,814
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    I don't wear jeans, so this whole debate is academic to me; like debating ties with a software engineer. [​IMG]
     


  5. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,802
    Likes Received:
    46
    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2003
    When I refer to a time, the presumption is that I refer to a time in my own timezone. If you didn't understand that, well, there's no reason to curse about it. [​IMG] This is a question: In sewing a single-needle side seam, is one of the goals to make that seem as narrow as possible?
     


  6. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,365
    Likes Received:
    320
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    Since I have a younger less affluent and more fashion conscious clientele then Mr. Kabbaz. Due mostly to our respective ages as opposed to price point.

    I have made plenty of shirts to be worn out. I myself wear most of my summer casual shirts worn out. with a square bottom and side slits not a vent. IT is a boxy cut. Slightly tapered through the waist and hips. My usual dress shirt is about 31-32" these come in around 28-29"

    When I make shirts to be worn out side of the pants as opposed to being tucked in with out a square bottom, then there is less curve at the tail and the hip measurement is reduced to prevent the shirt tail from flaring out.

    Ippolito in the Dominican Republic or ramon Puig in Miami make the best guayaberas. I have made a few in my day, but they are very time consuming to make. Lots of details. there is a cuban woman,Luz Amparo who works with Manny Toyo in NJ that can make a decent guayaberra.
     


  7. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,802
    Likes Received:
    46
    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2003
    Computer engineers exist. Software developers exist. I don't believe that software engineers exist.
     


  8. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,814
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Nitpicker.
     


  9. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,802
    Likes Received:
    46
    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2003
    (jcusey @ Mar. 13 2005,15:24) Computer engineers exist. Software developers exist. I don't believe that software engineers exist.
    Nitpicker.
    Precise language is important. And that particular construction is a pet peeve of mine.
     


  10. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,814
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Yes. Otherwise people feel that their words get twisted, and this can be upsetting. I will endeavor to be more precise in the future.
     


  11. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

    Messages:
    1,272
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2003
    Location:
    East Hampton & New York
    Oh. Someone finally comes up with a difficult one. Congratulations and a gold star.
    There are those shirtmakers who would argue in the affirmative on this one. However, I would disagree ... and probably win the debate because they are all dead. Nonetheless, there are two schools of thought, as follows:
    I make my two-stitch single-needle seams (usually referred to as the "closing" seam for it is the one which closes the sides and sleeve from the tip of the tailvent to the cuff) 1/4" wide and flat. This seam, and the difficult finger "turning" required to accomplish it, can be done using the fingers, lays flatter, does not dig into one's 'love handles', and can be pressed (ironed) to remove puckering.
    Others make their seams as your question reads, 'as narrow as possible'. The only way to accomplish this is with a special sewing machine foot called a "scroll" foot. Within this foot is a small scroll of metal (logic knows no bounds, eh?). The two pieces of fabric are fed through this foot and (sc)rolled into a tight little cylinder as they pass under the needle and get stitched. This has, for me, a multitude of downsides: Firstly, the foot is not accurate and the amount of material being scrolled can vary from 1/8" to as much as 1/2". Multiply this by the four pieces of fabric and variations in finished size of as much as 1.5" can transpire. Secondly, the smaller seam is not flat, it is a cylinder. This cylinder ... a rather solid one ... can pucker and be difficult, if not impossible, to press 'flat' - in other words, without puckers. Thirdly, because it is not flat, it tends to dig in to the side of the wearer under the trouser waistband (unless, of course, one is wearing jeans in which case one would look stupid to tuck it in).
    Wear your gold star with pride, untuck your shirt, and marvel at how many words can be used to not answer a question.
     


  12. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

    Messages:
    1,272
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2003
    Location:
    East Hampton & New York
    Music, maestro: Why is everybody always pickin' on me? I never said shirts shouldn't be worn out. As a matter of fact, even an old fart like me makes shirts to be worn untucked. I merely said that shirts with dress shirt tails should not be worn out. [​IMG] Edit: Title: Shirtmaker, in throes of catalogue deadline, throws hissy-fit. To further clarify, if you are making the hem flat (bell, square, "W") as a casual shirt hem with the stitching at least 1/4" up from the bottom, fine. If the hem is being made with a scroll foot as is commonly used on a dress shirt, tuck it in.
     


  13. andreyb

    andreyb Active Member

    Messages:
    40
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2003
    Location:
    Moscow, Russia
    Here in Russia I read a course of lectures titled "Software Engineering". So, I believe that software engineering and software engineers are indeed exist... Â [​IMG] Andrey
     


  14. BjornH

    BjornH Senior member

    Messages:
    503
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2002
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Yes, they exist. One point for Alex...
     


  15. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

    Messages:
    20,008
    Likes Received:
    97
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2004
    Location:
    New York City / Buenos Aires
    Software engineers exist, can't say the same for shirtmakers however... [​IMG] Jon.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by