Question about napoli suit style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by MilanoStyle, Aug 27, 2004.

  1. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    http://www.auctionworks.com/store....1992810 If u look that the pic of that Attolini suit, you will notice that there are kinks and dent on the top of shoulder line. The seller said some Napoli suits put that on purpose as it is classic Napoli signature styling. Is this true? I thought thoses were miktakes ..
     


  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Yes, the puckering at the shoulders is there on purpose - it is a characteristic of the Neapolitan shoulder and gives the otherwise very natural, lightly padded shoulder and elegant and understated shape (unlike the Savile Row and Roman style shoulders, which are highly structured). This type of work requires extensive handstitching and is a sign of a true artisanship.

    Attolini makes (IMO) superlative suits (particularly the jackets) and shirts. Plus, the seller is impeccable, and although his prices are a little steep for resale, you'll get a great product and terrific (and prompt) service.

    I'm not affiliated, except as a one time customer of his Ebay shop, and a somewhat more frequent customer at his Santa Monica streetwear shop. But the guy is great - and this from quite a critical customer.
     


  3. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    LA Guy, I do not know how far u live away from this guy's store .. but if could do the following for the people on this board it would be very nice:

    Could you be able to ask Ian to show you one of his Attolini and Borrelli suits that he is selling on ebay and you can exam it in person .. the quality and authenticity .. etc .. report back to us?

    Or have you done that already?

    Thanks
     


  4. regularjoe

    regularjoe Senior member

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    I know there's a lot going around about fake suits on EBay, but I don't think anyone is going to great lengths to fake an Attolini or Borrelli.
     


  5. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I actually live in Massachusetts these days, so I can't really do that. But I know his sources (or at least knew some of his old ones - he used to have stuff from Scott and Co., one of the best stores in LA, IMO) and have seen his wares in person before, and they are the real deal - his quoted retail prices are absolutely accurate as well, and not at all exaggerated. They are the ticket prices one would see at any high end retailer (unless he suddenly went from being very honest and reliable to being a complete ass overnight.) When he says that a suit is brand new, they are in the same condition as when they left the factory floor.

    You can quote me on that.
     


  6. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    I just checked out the link you posted.... In my opinion that is not a Neapolitan shoulder - it looks more like a suit that has been packed too tightly and the shoulder has been squashed. A real Neapolitan shoulder's pleating is quite different, you will definitely not miss it. If you note, most (if not all) his Borrellis and Attolinis do not have this "pleating". Speaking with A.Harris, he told me that in the States they don't usually order that type of shoulder since many people consider it a defect.
     


  7. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Oh, and I so want/need one of his Borrelli suits. Why, oh why, are junior academics so poorly paid?
     


  8. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Originally posted by LA Guy:
    But Borrellis and Attolinis do not leave the factory floor with finished buttonholes..... These must be store displays or orders that were not picked up.
     


  9. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I don't know about Attolini, but I *have* seen some Borrelli RTW with finished everything.
     


  10. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    But Borrellis and Attolinis do not leave the factory floor with finished buttonholes..... Â These must be store displays or orders that were not picked up.
    I don't know about Attolini, but I *have* seen some Borrelli RTW with finished everything.
    That must be in the States. The stores I've checked out in Italy have unfinished buttonholes.
     


  11. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    When he says that a suit is brand new, they are in the same condition as when they left the factory floor.
    But Borrellis and Attolinis do not leave the factory floor with finished buttonholes..... Â These must be store displays or orders that were not picked up.
    Right on. Â When I was picking up my Brioni RTW and Armani MTM, both of those suits sleeves were undone. Â Sales person said high end garment comes in this way originally and sleeved are done in house tailor according to my preference. So, when i was looking at this guys Attolini suits, and i see buttons were already done (not sugern cuff .. sigh ..) I was getting suspious as well. Reguarding the puckering on the shoulder .. if this is result of packing the suit tight or whatever, do I need to take this suit to tailor, open the shoulder seam and correct the problem? Â then that would cost $$$ So what now [​IMG]
     


  12. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    All quotes originally posted by MilanoStyle:
    Well according to LA guy, he has seen some with finished buttonholes. I find this a bit crazy since not all men have the same arm lengths, and to alter it to fit means shortening it at the shoulder - an expensive and difficult process (and in the hands of a so-so tailor, potentially ruinous).
    I think a pressing by a tailor should fix the problem.
     


  13. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Maybe. On the other hand, in Germany, I've seen many RTW suits with finished pants. Wierd.
     


  14. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    That must be in the States. Â The stores I've checked out in Italy have unfinished buttonholes.
    Maybe. Â On the other hand, in Germany, I've seen many RTW suits with finished pants. Â Wierd.
    Yes, but those generally tend to be the lower tier suits such as Dressler, Atelier Torino, YSL, etc. Then again, I've seen some Cornelianis (albeit the cheaper CC Collection and Trend) that have finished legs.
     


  15. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    (LA Guy @ 27 Aug. 2004, 8:07) Quote That must be in the States. Â The stores I've checked out in Italy have unfinished buttonholes.
    Maybe. Â On the other hand, in Germany, I've seen many RTW suits with finished pants. Â Wierd.
    Yes, but those generally tend to be the lower tier suits such as Dressler, Atelier Torino, YSL, etc. Â Then again, I've seen some Cornelianis (albeit the cheaper CC Collection and Trend) that have finished legs.[/quote] so, question comes down to this .. should i bid with confidence with this seller ??
     


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