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Question about chan

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Stu, Jun 15, 2004.

  1. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

    Messages:
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    May 5, 2004
    Dan, the WW Chan suits are much better than their shirts IMHO. Â I've been wearing Ascot Chang shirts for many years and the WW Chan shirts just aren't as nice in terms of available fabrics or workmanship. Â The fit of the Chan shirts is just as good as the fit of my Ascot Chang shirts--both are well measured custom products. Â However, my Ascot Chang shirts made of Thomas Mason Silverline shirting fabrics are better feeling and better looking, and stand up a lot better to a long days' wearing than the WW Chan shirts. Â When last I ordered, WW Chan did not carry the Silverline shirtings, only the regular Thomas Mason line. Â Ascot Chang uses two (at least) different styles of interlinings in the cuffs and collars--one very rigid and the other softer. Â Both of those interlinings feel more substantial and look better than the interlinings of the WW Chan, which feel very similar to the Collezioni. Â The one place that both the Chan and ChanG shirts surpass the Collezioni is in the seams--both HK shirt varieties are made with single needle side seams that are much nicer looking than the Collezioni. Â However, to me it is the cuffs and collars that make or break a shirt. This is not to take anything away from the WW Chan shirts--they are a very well made shirt, and a stunning bargain. I just think the Ascot Chang shirts are better. And they should be, since they cost 2x as much. BTW, even without multiple fittings I don't see why the WW Chan clothes would be referred to as MTM rather than bespoke--they have my paper pattern on file in HK, they can adjust it between US visits, and to my knowledge it isn't based on a stock pattern. Â My friend who bought a multi-fitting suit in HK gets the same treatment I do when we go to them during US visits. Â It's bespoke, but you have to buy new clothes to get the pattern changed. [​IMG]
     
  2. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    Oct 7, 2003
    Location:
    Washington DC
    Does Chan do any promotions during any particular sale season? I've been told to visit Hong Kong during certain times of year to get better deals on shopping.
     
  3. Kai

    Kai Senior member

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    Aug 16, 2003
    I am pleased with the vest, although it did need some slight alterations. I did not get measured/fitted for a vest in Hong Kong, so they made the vest based on measurements, as opposed to a pattern. I specified the vest without any sort of adjustment, so it does not have the traditional vest belt thingie in the back. I figured that it is custom made, so why should it need adjusting? (And it's a good incentive to make sure I don't get fatter.) It looks good and (after some tweaking) fits very well. It's more plain than my Raphael vest, which has lapels and two additional pockets. The Chan vest is very fitted, the Raphael vest has a bit more room to grow, so to speak. I haven't had any problems with them riding up during the day. Both my vested Chan suit and my vested Raphael suit have high waists and split backs for braces.
     
  4. My View

    My View Senior member

    Messages:
    107
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2003
    Location:
    Singapore
    Gregory> While I have visited and talked to quite a number of tailors/shirtmakers in HK, I have not personally tried many of them. I have only tried:
    - WW Chan
    - Jantzen
    - A-man Hin Cheong

    If I may conclude, personally the WW Chan shirts are marvelous in every aspect and while they are not exactly cheap by Asian standards, they are reasonably priced. WW Chan's service is second to none - the best I have encountered at any tailoring establishment

    Jantzen shirts are also very well made and with each costing only about 40% of a shirt from WW Chan (of the same fabric quality), they are extremely good value for the money.

    My only shirt from A-Man Hin Cheong is not bad at all. It comes with very fine stitching as well but while the pattern at the gauntlet matched perfectly, the pattern at the shoulder seam didn't. I was slightly unhappy and had them redo it. It is now almost perfect. Shirts at A-Man Hin Cheong costs about 15% more than those from WW Chan and 3 times as much as my Jantzen shirts.

    Because I go to HK quite often, I have not felt the need to do anything online.

    Regularjoe> Yes, my shirts from WW Chan come with the following features:
    1) Split-yoke
    2) Perfectly matching pattern at all seams
    3) Extremely fine stitching at all seams; single-needle doubled stitiched down
    4) High quality medium thickness MOP buttons
    5) Fused collar and cuffs (they don't do them unfused)
    6) Comfortably long shirt tail
    7) No gusset (which I consider to be of little use)

    The shirts fit me very well (they actually do a fitting for your first shirt). They have a good selection of fabrics from Acorn and Thomas Mason (David & Anderson) but I agree that the choice of fabrics - more appropriate for business wear - is more decent than exciting.
     
  5. fenderapache

    fenderapache Member

    Messages:
    7
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2004
    Kai, how would characterize the fit of your Chan suits versus Raphael? You mentioned that the vest is a best more fitted on the Chan than on the Raphael. Does the suit made by Chan also feel a bit closer to the body with 'less room to grow'? I'm considering getting Chan to make me a suit but want to make certain I know what requests to make while ordering. I'm a big guy (6'3, 230) who boxes, trains in jiu jitsu and I run/lift weights almost every day. As such, I've got big thighs, big shoulders and a wide chest (of course I could stand to lose a few pounds and be less wide). I like to have a bit of room while moving around but I still like some suppression of the waist and some shape to the suit. I want to make certain I am explicit in my instructions to Chan so that we start off on the right foot.
     
  6. Kai

    Kai Senior member

    Messages:
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    Aug 16, 2003
    The fit is similar on the suits. The Chan vest is more fitted because I wanted it made without the feature of an adjustable, belted back. Therefore, the vest needs to be very form fitting in order to look right. It's a feature of how the vest was designed. Most vests are not built this way, but it was something I specifically asked them to do. The Chan vest doesn't allow for much growth, but that was how I wanted it. The Raphael vest is designed to be a bit more flexible, as are most vests. I am certain that the Chan folks could make you a vest in the traditional style with a belted back. My guess is that almost all the vests they make have belted backs.

    You sound like you have a similar body shape to my own, and I have found that the fit of my Chan suits has accomodated my normal fluxuations in body measurements due to exercise/training or the lack thereof. My body shape changes quite a bit depending on how hard I am training, and so far, I've always been able to fit into my Chan suits.

    If you're worried, let them know. I'm sure they can build in an extra 1/2 inch in the appropriate places to accomodate you.
     
  7. fenderapache

    fenderapache Member

    Messages:
    7
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2004
    Thanks Kai. I appreciate your thoughtful responses. As you mentioned, I have fluctuations in my weight/shape based on how many hours I'm in the office versus hours exercising as well as what kind of exercise I'm engaging in. I hate having a suit that is so fitted that it becomes either too tight if I 'grow'. Sounds like Chan did a nice job fitting you.

    Do you have any pictures of Chan's workmanship? I'd be interested in seeing close-ups of the inside of the jackets and pants. I would love to find a tailor who can make pants that are as comfortable as my Oxxfords have proven and that have a similar pocket design. I don't know what Chan's pants look like inside and it is a bit hard to see the details from Chan's website.
     
  8. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Nov 5, 2004
    There was some mention of "deal" fabrics from Chan. Does anyone know what he charges for these, and what's the quality of the material like? Thanks.
     
  9. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,603
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    Dec 6, 2003
    They usually offer a special during each trip to the US. Last time it was a two-piece suit in Vitale Barberis Canonica super 130's for $730. This time it's a two-piece suit in Loro Piana super 120's for $845. They have similar offers for shirting material, but I don't have those in front of me right now.

    dan
     

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