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Question about chan

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Stu, Jun 15, 2004.

  1. Stu

    Stu Distinguished Member

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    I'm thinking about having a suit made from Chan when they are in my area in November. I was wondering how it works. How much of a deposit do you put down? How long does it take till your suit is delivered? I assume when the suit is sent they charge the rest of the suit.
     


  2. dah328

    dah328 Distinguished Member

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    They only asked me for a deposit the first time I ordered from them which was during a visit to Hong Kong. As I recall, it was in the vicinity of 30% or so. My credit card was charged for the remainder upon my receipt of the finished product. For subsequent orders that I've placed during their US trips, my credit card was billed for the entire amount upon shipment of my order.

    My first order which I placed in person was filled in about 1.5 weeks. Subsequent orders placed during their US trips took 4 or 5 weeks to arrive. Well worth the wait so long as one is not suddenly blindsided by the immediate need for a new suit.

    Regards,

    dan
     


  3. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Distinguished Member

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    All my orders have been on their US trips. They charge the whole amount to my credit card within a couple of days. Then my bank inevitably puts a hold on my account when they see a sudden, single charge being made in HK for hundreds of dollars when the rest of my activity is at home.

    I think their lead time may be a bit longer now, as the suits I ordered in March are in transit now and are supposed to arrive this week. They may be stretched a bit thin with the opening of their two shops in Shanghai.
     


  4. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Distinguished Member

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    Did I say March? I meant May. The suits just walked in the door (i.e. in the hands of the delivery person). They look pretty nice. I gotta get these puppies to the cleaners for pressing now.
     


  5. BGW

    BGW Senior Member

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    To what RTW maker does Chan best compare in terms of overall quality, customization aside?
     


  6. PeterMetro

    PeterMetro Senior Member

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    Dan,

    How did this work on the subsequent orders? I assume you wore your first suit to the fitting - did they then remeasure and adjust your paper pattern? How were the subsequent suits in terms of fit? Did you order the same styles?

    Thanks.
     


  7. dah328

    dah328 Distinguished Member

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    Well, my first order was for a tux, formal shirt, and 2 pairs of pants. My one and only subsequent order was for a couple pairs of pants and a couple dress shirts, all of which were based on the measurements taken the first time around. The style of the pants was only slightly modified (cuffs, etc.) and the fit is fine. The dress shirts fit the same as the formal shirt, too, but while the formal shirt works fine with a tuxedo, I think I prefer a slightly different fit for my dress shirts. I will communicate that to them on their next visit (a couple weeks for us here in NYC) and see how the shirt turns out. While I'd really like to order a Chan suit, I don't wear them for work and can't really justify the expense right now.

    Regards,

    dan
     


  8. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Distinguished Member

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    (dah328 @ 15 June 2004, 5:20) My first order which I placed in person was filled in about 1.5 weeks. Â Subsequent orders placed during their US trips took 4 or 5 weeks to arrive. Â Well worth the wait so long as one is not suddenly blindsided by the immediate need for a new suit.
    Dan, How did this work on the subsequent orders? Â I assume you wore your first suit to the fitting - did they then remeasure and adjust your paper pattern? Â How were the subsequent suits in terms of fit? Â Did you order the same styles? Thanks.
    They ask you to wear something from your most recent order when you show up for an appointment. They will ask you whether it fits/feels/looks right, and they will look you over and suggest changes if they think changes are appropriate. Then they will note the changes, go back to Hong Kong and revise the pattern. I have no idea whether they keep an accurate "revision history" so that you can tell them something like "do what you did two orders ago." Indeed, with the volume of work they do I think it would be wiser for them to just keep the latest pattern and work backwards. IMHO they nailed the measurements the first time, and each suit has fit the same--just right. I had a couple of stylistic/aesthetic issues with the first suit they made me, which were fixed in production of the second order, and remain fixed in the third order. My confidence level in their pattern is now good enough that I'd have no hesitation to order a suit off of swatches alone (plus written confirmation), with no face to face contact.
     


  9. masterfred

    masterfred Well-Known Member

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    Dah328 and "Retronotmetro" (love that handle.):
    Kai has posted several times (including some pics) of his Chan suit. Stylistically, what choices did you make regarding silhouette and detailing? Kai indicates Chan's house style is an English-oriented, somewhat "hourglass" cut. Did you choose a similar style, or attempt something different?
     


  10. vc2000

    vc2000 Senior Member

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    I wore Hickey Freeman prior to using Chan. I would say they are fairly comparable in quality. My last Chan was a 130 and when I brushed past a HF 120 still in my closet I was surprised by how much better the Chan felt. The Chan custom sets it apart from the HF though. I probably liked the lining in the HF pants just a little more but I am sure I could address that with Chan by requesting a different lining.

    I have to say the Chan is better value. I think I paid around $800 for my last Chan suit - a travel workhorse so not the high end fabric - I also order a second pair of pants a great trick for traveling- so the total was more than $800. At the HF outlets they frequently want $599 to $699 - I have trouble finding my size and they don't stay on the rack to a sale. After that price at an outlet, I then I started the process of going to a tailor which always was at least $100.

    I would only buy one suit on your first purchase in the states. Chan does a great job but you will want to adjust - even if it is only things you want... They let me pick out other fabrics on the first order - order the one then fill the order later.
     


  11. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Distinguished Member

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    masterfred,

    I'm not really sure they have a "house style," as they try to be versatile enough to fit the demands of a wide variety of people. That said, I do have them work in an English-influenced style: three-button, with side vents, flap pockets and ticket pocket, soft shoulders and a bit of waist suppression. I had them do slanted pockets the first couple of times, now I've gone back to straight pockets, which I find that I prefer. The trousers have all been the same style: cuffed with double reverse pleats, inside brace buttons, and a watch pocket in the waistband on the right front side (watch pocket is a standard feature IIRC). On the other hand, I have a friend who gets ventless suits with a bit more shoulder padding and less waist suppression, and his suits look great despite the different style.

    BGW asked about overall quality. I'm not sure how to answer that. We're talking about a custom made full canvas suit that sells for as little as $750 US. If you account for that price point, their suits at least equal, and more likely blow away any RTW suit you are going to find for $750 counting taxes and alterations. When you take price out of the mix it is a bit harder to judge. Is it made as well and as consistently as an Oxxford? Well, I don't really think so. But if it helps at all, I prefer my WW Chan suits to either my Chester Barrie-era RLPL or my RTW Corneliani.

    The basic reason I stick with WW Chan is that they make me a very good suit in the fabric and style I want, with minimum hassle. I wear a 40 coat and I have a 31.5 waist, and unless I want to buy separates I invariably have to get significant alterations done to my RTW suits. So I'd rather spend $750 on a suit from Chan than hunt through sale racks and outlet stores for $500 RTW suits and have them altered, especially since I always seem to have trouble getting alterations done exactly right. If I need something fast, or come across a really good deal, I'll still buy RTW. But I'm running 4-1 in favor of WW Chan since I found them two years ago.
     


  12. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

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    Where the hell is Kai anyways? He's gotta start dropping some tips here before our Chan appointments arrive.

    I've got my appointment on July 5. I am not sure what I'm gonna wear, mainly because my best fitting suit is actually quite unlike what I will be going for. My best fitting suit is a pretty classic American cut -- natural shoulders, center vent -- albeit with some waist suppression. But I really am desiring my Chan suit (suits) to be more in that English style -- a little more waist suppression, double vent, possibly a ticket pocket, maybe a dab shorter in length (though with a natural shoulder). It relieves me to hear that Kai describes that type of "hourglass" style as Chan's house style.

    Kai, if you are there and still have the pics of your Chan suit, can you repost them? They are not available anymore here.
     


  13. BGW

    BGW Senior Member

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  14. vc2000

    vc2000 Senior Member

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    On the first appointment with Chan as you don't need to wear a suit. My first appointment was in Florida and I was wearing a pair of swim trunks...he had a couple of squeeze in appointments when I was supposed to go so I went to the beach as I was staying at the same hotel as Chan was and then he had me come up when he had a break. Thus I was on the beach and then he worked me in... And they were very accomodating. No snobbish attitude - I've had suits made at others that weren't so flexible. (Actually old English tailors normally require measurements from the boxers. Recall the line in the movie "Tailor from Panama" about which way he dresses...and he replies it is like a windsock...)

    What you may wish to do is take clippings or photos of what you want your suit to look like which might be more helpful. Chan will normally either take the clipping or they will take a digital photo.

    Relax and enjoy this rite of passage. I hope this helps.
     


  15. dah328

    dah328 Distinguished Member

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    Speaking of all the different silhouettes and styles, is there a good place to read up on all the differences? I generally know what features I like on a suit, but I'd like to make sure they form a coherent whole.

    dan
     


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