Quarter-lined Dinner Jacket: a Stroke of Stupidity or Genius?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 11, 2009.

  1. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    4. Is becoming difficult to source, at least according to Thomas Mahon.
    5. Is not as nice as the regular silk your tailor normally uses. I have a blue mohair tuxedo from the Harrison's formalwear book. Fully lined it is not hot at all.
     


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Nothing to do with the original question (I can't tell you anything about that besides that it makes sense to me that the jacket should be cooler; it has been hot at the balls I attended), but do you think about a black or midnight blue one?

    Midnight blue w/ black grosgrain trim.

    5. Is not as nice as the regular silk your tailor normally uses.

    I have a blue mohair tuxedo from the Harrison's formalwear book. Fully lined it is not hot at all.


    Good to know. The formalwear book is different from the Cape Kid book?
     


  3. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    Good to know. The formalwear book is different from the Cape Kid book?


    I think so, though I am not sure. All you have to do is ask [​IMG].
     


  4. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mohair blend and midnight blue together have me nervous. You risk looking a little too rat pack. I would go with either traditional barathea in midnight blue or else the mohair blend in black.

    But iammatt has one - if his experience with it is that it is not too shiny, you can ignore this post. On the other hand, he always reminded me of Dean-o.
     


  5. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I wouldn't mix formal and quarter lined. My experience with quarter or unlined jackets is that they tend to have a velcro effect with the pants waist and shirt back, often getting caught and not looking very neat. That seems incompatible with a formal event IMO.
     


  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The ones I am familiar with are not shiny, especially if you go 11 ounce and above. The lightweights seem to have more sheen. 10 /11 ounce wool /mohair is perfect for a DJ, IMO.

    I think the Cape Kid book is no more and has been replaced with Cape Breeze. The new book is a bit heavier and I think a better cloth.

    Tux shirts made from voile help keep you cool.
     


  7. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    I wouldn't mix formal and quarter lined. My experience with quarter or unlined jackets is that they tend to have a velcro effect with the pants waist and shirt back, often getting caught and not looking very neat. That seems incompatible with a formal event IMO.
    I don't have the velcro problem, but I agree that it is not appropriate for formal wear. It just isn't as neat in back, no matter how well it fits.
     


  8. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    Tux shirts made from voile help keep you cool.

    I couldn't agree more. I had one made in a Sea Island voile and it is fantastic. It feels cooler than wearing nothing.

    I like it so much, I've considered ordering some regular shirts from voile, but with the shirt front doubled for opacity. Not sure if this is done.
     


  9. romafan

    romafan Senior member

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    How often do you attend society galas? In this economy, it might make more sense to rent...
     


  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I think so, though I am not sure. All you have to do is ask [​IMG].

    I just like having more-than-a-vague sense of what I want before I talk to Mariano--more so that I can understand what he suggests and less so that I can specify something specific.

    Mohair blend and midnight blue together have me nervous. You risk looking a little too rat pack. I would go with either traditional barathea in midnight blue or else the mohair blend in black.

    But iammatt has one - if his experience with it is that it is not too shiny, you can ignore this post. On the other hand, he always reminded me of Dean-o.


    I hadn't thught of the shine issue. I guess I figured that mohair was naturally going to have some sheen no matter what. I don't want black cloth. I have an old Armani tux in black serge (awful, awful cloth), and want to get away from it. An irrational aversion, I know.

    I think the Cape Kid book is no more and has been replaced with Cape Breeze. The new book is a bit heavier and I think a better cloth.

    A ha. Harrison's needs to update their website.

    How often do you attend society galas? In this economy, it might make more sense to rent...

    Not often. But every now and then there are weddings and charity events sponsored by my firm to go to. As infrequently as I need to wear a dinner suit, I still need to and there's no alternative.

    Me rent? Can you imagine a place that would have anything remotely close to my size? I rented a 38 or 40 short tux to my high school prom; it was one of the worst sartorial experiences of my life.
     


  11. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    Go with a full lining.

    I never saw a dinner suit (or tails or morning coat or stroller) with a quarter or half lining. It looks unfinished.

    Even Oxxford, whose "signature" is quarter lining, does a full lining.
     


  12. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Me rent? Can you imagine a place that would have anything remotely close to my size?

    Here you go
     


  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I wouldn't mix formal and quarter lined. My experience with quarter or unlined jackets is that they tend to have a velcro effect with the pants waist and shirt back, often getting caught and not looking very neat. That seems incompatible with a formal event IMO.

    Helpful.

    Here you go

    Not so much.

    The contrast is startling.
     


  14. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    It's just for fun yo!

    This one looks like it would achieve a high coolness factor...

    [​IMG]
     


  15. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Tux shirts made from voile help keep you cool.

    I couldn't agree more. I had one made in a Sea Island voile and it is fantastic. It feels cooler than wearing nothing.

    I like it so much, I've considered ordering some regular shirts from voile, but with the shirt front doubled for opacity. Not sure if this is done.


    If you heat up, voile is the way to go.

    I seem to recall something by FNB on double-front voile.


    - B
     


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