Quarter-lined Dinner Jacket: a Stroke of Stupidity or Genius?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 11, 2009.

  1. TC (Houston)

    TC (Houston) Senior member

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    Okay, I tweaked the contrast over part of the jacket so more detail is shown:


    Looks outstanding!
     


  2. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    . . . The tailor designed a very handsome lapel for you. Don't cut holes in it.
    +1
    I know the scoop style the iGents speak of, it's passe in the worst sense of the word.
    -5
    Although I find it odd that he let you line mohair in silk. I think I mentioned that before. If anything might make you look like a waiter it's the V fold, get a cream colored silk pocket square.
    ??? This probably made more sense in the original language
    White or pearl cufflinks? I would use some contrast.
    With that shirt, it doesn't really matter.
     


  3. greekonomist

    greekonomist Senior member

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    How are you holding up the trousers? [​IMG]
     


  4. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    +1 -5 ??? This probably made more sense in the original language With that shirt, it doesn't really matter.
    Mohair is supposed to breathe and silk does not. That's one reason mohair is used for a dinner jacket (although I think the forum crowd makes way too much of a fetish out of this material), other reasons are bc it keeps its shape through constant standing and sitting plus has a little sparkle to it. Also, silk is soft and mohair is stiff. The mohair is going to fight with the silk. f you want a better translation, maybe we should talk about my getting paid. True about the shirt. Actually, with that color dinner jacket he could wear a cream colored shirt, especially with a blue bow tie. But maybe a cream colored shirt isn't a good choice for him. I would wear a cream crepe de chine shirt myself. The scoop lapels dont look good. If you have one, alright but dont get one even if youve got Esky plates that show them.
     


  5. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    He looks like a rock n roll waiter from a movie that could have the same title from the eighties.

    Who, Lapo or Gianni? [​IMG]
     


  6. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Go back to SW&D

    Hardly ever been there. I just admit the possibility that even some stark deviations from the rules work. Or would you have sent the Duke to the SW&D of his time (a workman's pub?) after seeing his brown suede shoes in town? Boring, I know; but basic.
     


  7. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Four-in-hand tie with dinner jacket = shoot on sight. Actually it means 'doesn't know to tie a bow'.

    The long tie was originally introduced as a more formal alternative to the bow tie (think about it: it gets in the way of stuff, like tails and the like). Not that this makes it correct for evening wear, but it does lend it a modicum of historical legitimacy. Too bad that those Hollywood cavemen have ruined the look.
     


  8. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    Who, Lapo or Gianni? [​IMG]
    Lapo. Gianni looks more like one of those Jackal statues from The Mummy brought to life...but with some sprezzatura.
     


  9. srivats

    srivats Senior member

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    Looks great, mafoo!

    For the next one, go with a cream/white one, like so:

    [​IMG]
     


  10. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mohair is supposed to breathe and silk does not. That's one reason mohair is used for a dinner jacket (although I think the forum crowd makes way too much of a fetish out of this material), other reasons are bc it keeps its shape through constant standing and sitting plus has a little sparkle to it Also, silk is soft and mohair is stiff. The mohair is going to fight with the silk. f you want a better translation, maybe we should talk about my getting paid.
    I don't think silk is any softer than bemberg as a lining so I can't see what difference it makes if the DJ is wool or wool/mohair. But that doesn't mean I think silk is a good idea. None of my tailors have ever recommended it and I have left the subject at that. As for Mohair, you are righ that it is used for warm weather, but not because it breathes. Breathability comes more from the weave. As I understand it, mohair's advantages in hot weather are that, like linen, it doesn't insulate very well, and that it is also less likely to get clingy in humidity.
    . . . The scoop lapels dont look good. If you have one, alright but dont get one even if youve got Esky plates that show them.
    My first DJ had a squared off shawl lapel and I really like it. No idea whatever happened to it. My current is a MTM Hickey SB 1B Peak Lapel that is more than 15 years old. I think it has shrunk in the waist a bit. I do like the scooped shawl and I would be happy to wear one, though I am not sure what I would get if I do got a new DJ - probably just replace my current one in the same configuration or maybe a DB peak lapel. But a shawl would definitely be the choice for my second DJ (not that I will ever need two) and I like the squared off shape.
     


  11. Butterfly

    Butterfly Senior member

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    The long tie was originally introduced as a more formal alternative to the bow tie (think about it: it gets in the way of stuff, like tails and the like). Not that this makes it correct for evening wear, but it does lend it a modicum of historical legitimacy. Too bad that those Hollywood cavemen have ruined the look.
    I beg to differ. The four-in-hand was introduced as a more casual, less formal (because easier to tie) alternative to the formal ascot and the bowtie. That's why it was adopted en masse in the late Industrial Revolution - the late 19th and early twentieth century. A newly urbanised working public needed something quick and easy to tie in the morning. Any historical clothing reference ever published will back me on this. If we're talking about history, the four-in-hand has not even a modicum of legitimacy with evening wear.
     


  12. Butterfly

    Butterfly Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    As someone else said, evening pumps would really complete this near-perfect ensemble. Then stick a flower in after you get the holes made, be a bit more generous with the display of handkerchief, and it really couldn't be improved.

    I would have chosen a wing-collar, though. When else can you wear it if not with formal wear - might as well seize those opportunities. Completely your choice though.
     


  13. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    When else can you wear it if not with formal wear - might as well seize those opportunities.

    Wing collar with a DB shawl is a good look if you are serving the soup course.

    - B
     


  14. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    So, now that we have completed all the stages of mourning, our answer is what?

    (1) Stroke of Stupidity

    or

    (2) Genius?


    - B
     


  15. Butterfly

    Butterfly Senior member

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    Wing collar with a DB shawl is a good look if you are serving the soup course.

    - B


    But not for a single-breasted shawl? Or would that be a double-breasted peak?

    You really must go into this in greater depth.
     


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