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Quality MTM or Custom in Chicago

magogian12345

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Hello all,

I'm looking to add to my small but growing number of suits and jackets. In particular, I'm looking for a new blazer. Because of my body dimensions (46" chest, 36 " waist, 19" biceps), I am forced to get MTM or custom (so please don't recommend any OTR stuff).

I have two suits from Brooks Brothers normal MTM program. The suits are fine, but I know I could do (and have done) better. I have a custom suit from Paul Chang in Chicago. This suit I love, and it fits me very well. I'm probably getting another suit done by him in the next month, but I want to a different place for my blazer. (I have some suits, but they aren't worth mentioning)

I'm looking to spend up to $1,500 for my blazer. Consequently, this puts Chris Despos and Oxxford out of my range (trust me, I've checked).

I visited the Hickey Freeman store on Oak St., and I was impressed. The store and the people there are very nice. With my money, I use almost any of their fabrics for my blazer out of their normal MTM program. For Brooks Brothers, I can get some decent fabrics from their Golden Fleece MTM program. Because my previous suits from BB were just decent, I'm hesitant to use BB again, even though I would use their better line--Golden Fleece.

Does anyone have an insight on Hickey Freeman's MTM program or BB's Golden Fleece program. In particular, any comparisons on the quality and workmanship would be very helpful.

Also, are there any other MTM or custom shops in Chicago that people would recommend?
 

ChicagoRon

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BB has MTM events fairly often with pretty good savings, if you can wait. They also have a decent MTM program at Mark Shale.

Did you check Paul Stuart? I don't know anything about their MTM, but I know they do shrits.

There's also the Loro Piana store, but that would probably cost more than Despos. I know their shirts are $400-500 range and require a fairly large minimum order.
 

magogian12345

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Originally Posted by ChicagoRon
BB has MTM events fairly often with pretty good savings, if you can wait. They also have a decent MTM program at Mark Shale.

Did you check Paul Stuart? I don't know anything about their MTM, but I know they do shrits.

There's also the Loro Piana store, but that would probably cost more than Despos. I know their shirts are $400-500 range and require a fairly large minimum order.


I have a BB corp. discount card, so I always get 15% off their MTM (which is better or the same as their MTM discount unless you buy 3). My sales guy said their next 25% event doesn't occur till April, and I don't want to wait that long.

I have thought about checking out Mark Shale. I may look into them more.

Regarding Paul Stuart, they just seem very pricey. As such, I haven't really considered them. But, if anyone is familiar with their MTM, I'm open to hearing about them.
 

Vintage Gent

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Originally Posted by magogian12345
I have a custom suit from Paul Chang in Chicago. This suit I love, and it fits me very well. I'm probably getting another suit done by him in the next month, but I want to a different place for my blazer.

If you've found a tailor whose work you "love," why would you jump ship? A new relationship with even the best of tailors can be a journey fraught with difficulty, so I counsel staying put, particularly because you seem so satisfied with the results.

If you're hell bent on trying something new, you could always go with WW Chan--one of Hong Kong's "big three." They visit the states three times a year, and Chicago is on each trip (next one in March). Many of us on the forum are longtime customers. Do a quick search and you'll find a lot of information, complete with pictures.
 

KObalto

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If the BB you have isn't GF, you should give GF a try. Very nicely tailored stuff by Martin Greenfield in Brooklyn.
 

magogian12345

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Originally Posted by Vintage Gent
If you've found a tailor whose work you "love," why would you jump ship? A new relationship with even the best of tailors can be a journey fraught with difficulty, so I counsel staying put, particularly because you seem so satisfied with the results.

If you're hell bent on trying something new, you could always go with WW Chan--one of Hong Kong's "big three." They visit the states three times a year, and Chicago is on each trip (next one in March). Many of us on the forum are longtime customers. Do a quick search and you'll find a lot of information, complete with pictures.


I'm getting another suit done by Chang. But, I'm young. I plan to buy many suits over my life. Why should I only stick with tailor and never experiment?

I'm just trying to see what other good options there are. In particular, I'd very much like to know the comparative quality of Hickey Freeman's MTM vs. BB's Golden Fleece.
 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by magogian12345
I'm getting another suit done by Chang. But, I'm young. I plan to buy many suits over my life. Why should I only stick with tailor and never experiment?

There's nothing wrong with experimenting, but you might as well do it with a purpose. Is there something about your Paul Chang stuff that you don't like or would prefer to be different? Trying something new for the sake of trying something new doesn't make all that much sense given the fact that you like what you have already, your price contraint limits options, and it can be difficult getting satisfactory results from a new tailor.
 

magogian12345

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
There's nothing wrong with experimenting, but you might as well do it with a purpose. Is there something about your Paul Chang stuff that you don't like or would prefer to be different? Trying something new for the sake of trying something new doesn't make all that much sense given the fact that you like what you have already, your price contraint limits options, and it can be difficult getting satisfactory results from a new tailor.

This may not make sense, but I feel that I learn a lot about what looks good on me, proper fit, and what I like by trying different places. So far, I have learnd a lot from the two different places I've tried (BB's MTM and Chang's for custom). I'm getting a new blazer and a new suit. So, I figure that I can experiment with one -- the blazer -- to get a feel for how another shop makes their clothing. And perhaps, I will learn a lot more with that other place as well.
 

magogian12345

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Originally Posted by unpainted huffheinz
Greenfield is probably not the best choice for a young guy with a 10" drop.

Is there a particular reason why?
 

fashion_newbie

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What are Paul Chang and WW Chan's price range for suits? I assume they are both considerably lower than Despos?
 

Vintage Gent

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Originally Posted by fashion_newbie
What are Paul Chang and WW Chan's price range for suits? I assume they are both considerably lower than Despos?

Chan starts around $1,100, I believe. Better fabrics run more. I recently commissioned a 2-piece DB in the Holland & Sherry Snowy River fabric, and it's running me $1,451.
 

kcc

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Have you checked Syd Jerome on La Salle St.? They carry a number of quality brands e.g. polo, canali, Isaia and unknown Italian maker ... RTW and MTM are offered. Oak St. prices will exceed your budget.
 

magogian12345

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Originally Posted by fashion_newbie
What are Paul Chang and WW Chan's price range for suits? I assume they are both considerably lower than Despos?

I had my suit done in using Dormeuil's Amadeus line. It cost $1,900. I must say that I love that fabric line.
 

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