Put This On Ep. 5: Tradition (J. Press & Thom Browne)

[YoungAmerican]

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Here's the latest episode of Put This On. It features a conversation with Jay Walter, who runs Made to Measure at J. Press, about traditional American style. Then a conversation with Thom Browne about turning that style into fashion.

Take a look! Whaddya think?

 

[LeafAndArrow]

Hey Jesse, nice one. I also see that you maxed out your servers! Ha! I Really liked your repartee with the older fella, and frankly am much more interested in what one of the old duffers has to say, VS the avant garde designers who like to make tripod pants.

 

[dieworkwear]

This is easily one of my favorite episodes so far.

I assume like everyone else, I'm curious what are the parts of the interview that were left on the editing floor. I'd love to know if Browne had anything to say about his career at Brooks (I think Anna Wintour recommended him the job before he was even "truly" big?), his plans in Paris, and, frankly, poking at how insane his collections are getting. This is a guy who designs for one of the most conservative labels in America, but then did that Alice in Wonderland show recently. Is there some kind of artistic vision that he has, some goal, or is he just trying to out Browne himself?

 

[dieworkwear]

Originally Posted by LeafAndArrow

Hey Jesse, nice one. I also see that you maxed out your servers! Ha! I Really liked your repartee with the older fella, and frankly am much more interested in what one of the old duffers has to say, VS the avant garde designers who like to make tripod pants.

Just as a note, I think the tripod pants should be appreciated on different terms. Menswear, in my opinion, should be segmented into three realms - commercial, artisanal, and conceptual. Commercial being things like Ralph Lauren and Tom Ford; artisanal being things like Ambrosi Golden Trousers (where the details are about artisanal details, not how they add to fit); and conceptual being things like Alexander McQueen and even Thom Browne.

Obviously every line, in practice, incorporates elements from each three spheres, but we should recognize when something should be judged on its own terms. Three legged trousers are obviously about conceptual menswear, not commercial.

 

[daloc22]

did anyone else find jesse's laughter at some of thom browne's collections to be a tad rude? granted many of the mans runway looks are pretty outrageous, but they're certainly not jokes. i would have felt at least a little bit offended had someone openly laughed at work i spent a lot of time, money and energy on. other than that i thought it was a great video, i loved the j. press bit.

thoughts?

 

[LeafAndArrow]

Totally agree. I was speaking entirely from a personal perspective. I admit that I dont have a place in my heart for nonsensical conceptual fashion. If this were 1300s Europe, you wouldn't see me walking awkwardly in a pair of pointy cracows. I also agree that the tripodal pants have their place, but that place is sadly beyond what I consider my personal purview.

 

[LeafAndArrow]

Originally Posted by daloc22

did anyone else find jesse's laughter at some of thom browne's collections to be a tad rude? granted many of the mans runway looks are pretty outrageous, but they're certainly not jokes. i would have felt at least a little bit offended had someone openly laughed at work i spent a lot of time, money and energy on. other than that i thought it was a great video, i loved the j. press bit.

thoughts?

Maybe? I doubt i could've kept a straight face, deep respect for the art of sewing 2 pairs of pants together aside. But then I openly embrace my barbarism.

 

[YoungAmerican]

Originally Posted by daloc22

did anyone else find jesse's laughter at some of thom browne's collections to be a tad rude? granted many of the mans runway looks are pretty outrageous, but they're certainly not jokes. i would have felt at least a little bit offended had someone openly laughed at work i spent a lot of time, money and energy on. other than that i thought it was a great video, i loved the j. press bit. thoughts?
A) Thom also thinks they're funny. I asked. I think it's a mistake to assume that someone can't be conceptually serious about something and also intend it to amuse. B) It is delighted laughter, not derisive laughter.

 

[ethinton]

Thanks for another excellent episode, and for the wonderful blog!

 

[Incandenza]

I don't think Jesse was being rude, daloc. Just because Thom Browne puts a lot of work into his collection does not mean that they aren't also "jokes" The very idea of putting out three legged trousers or a men's skirt is sort of puling a joke on the fashion establishment in the same way that many modern artists create "jokes" by depicting ridiculous subjects using very traditional methods. Just because something is rightly hung in the MOMA doesn't mean it shouldn't also inspire laughter.

I really like what dieworkwear said. I have not paid much attention to fashion until fairly recently (thanks in large part to jesse and put this on) and one reason is that most "high fashion" looks like a joke that no one in their right mind would wear. But thinking about these as conceptual pieces that open up our thinking about what clothes can be, and maybe lead to more modest changes in mainsteam wear down the road, makes a lot more sense.

 

[YoungAmerican]

I think Browne, like most designers, understands that when you are wearing a garment, you're wearing much more than just a collection of fabric and fittings. You're also wearing a web of meanings and associations. The purpose of something that's crazy in a runway collection is to add to those meanings.

So in part, when you're wearing Thom Browne, you're wearing the idea of revering tradition and turning it on its head - you're wearing the skirt suit, even if you'd never wear a skirt suit.

(I don't think I'd buy a skirt suit, but I might wear one if I had the right occasion.)

 

[JakeLA]

I've got no problem with Thom Browne, I just don't think he was the right person to bring Brooks Brothers into the 21st century. And judging by how much of the Black Fleece stuff winds up in the Clearance section of the web site, I have to wonder how successful the marriage has been.

That said, I walked into the BB store in San Francisco recently and was treated better than I've ever been treated at any regular Brooks Bros. store. The clothes are clearly well made and have a conceptual integrity that I applaud. And they look amazing on the mannequins. They just don't look so great on actual humans IMHO.

 

[dieworkwear]

Originally Posted by Incandenza

So in part, when you're wearing Thom Browne, you're wearing the idea of revering tradition and turning it on its head - you're wearing the skirt suit, even if you'd never wear a skirt suit.

(I don't think I'd buy a skirt suit, but I might wear one if I had the right occasion.)

Agreed.

I'll kop a skirt suit once Lands End Canvas comes out with one. They always have good discount codes.

 

[YoungAmerican]

Originally Posted by JakeLA

That said, I walked into the BB store in San Francisco recently and was treated better than I've ever been treated at any regular Brooks Bros. store. The clothes are clearly well made and have a conceptual integrity that I applaud. And they look amazing on the mannequins. They just don't look so great on actual humans IMHO.

I think they look very good on small men. Thin and short or medium height. And even at 6'3", 200 I have a lot of Black Fleece stuff that I love (pants, shirts, bowties, sweaters).

And yeah, the folks at that store are exceptionally nice. And I'm not just saying that because one of them reads PTO

.

 

[lefty]

Nice interview. Consider getting rid of that colour reversal soft pop on your logo. It's distracting as it adds a visual beat you don't need.

lefty