I currently have a new pair of PBJ XX-007's in size 34 raw. Been wearing them for about a month. Off the shelf and unwashed, they fit pretty good. The only thing is, the rise is a bit tight in my crotch. But I can deal with it. I have yet to wash/soak them as I don't want them to shrink at all. I know they are unsanforized, but if they shrink any, they'll be too tight. I didn't get a size up because if I did that and then shrunk them, the waist would be too large (even with shrinking). I'm 6'2", 190 pounds and I generally wear a 34 or 35 tagged size. I'm thinking about getting another pair of PBJ since I like them. But, I'm looking at the 009's since they're supposed be just like the 007's but a slightly looser fit, especially in the rise. My question is, this time around should I go with a 36 raw and actually hot soak them like you're supposed to? Get another pair of 34's and not soak them like I've done with the 007's. Or go with a 36 one wash? It's all very confusing to me. yeah, it is confusing at times. but remember, when you wash your 007s they will shrink but they will stretch back out to their current state. when i first got into japanese raw denim i was afraid of them getting to small too but they will stretch back out. they might come in 2" in the waist after a wash but i promise you they will stretch back out within a day or two of wear as to your question about going up a size, personally, i wouldnt. im 5'11" 185 lbs and i were a 33 in the 007s and most other pbjs. i guess you could try the 36 o/w but i bet you would find they would be a little to larger. the 009s in size 36 could possibly stretch out to 38" in the waist, which would be way to big for you. i know it sounds crazy but i bet you would be a 32 or 33 in the 009s. if you find the rise is a little to low on the pbj styles, which is entirely possible, you might want to look at a cut with a little higher rise. the problem your going to run into if you go up to much is they will stretch out to point of them being to big. could you take a pic of how the 007s fit on your now so i have a better idea of what your talking about?