Purchase help, newbie. Black suit vs Tuxedo. Thick as Thieves.

[cbsteven]

Hello again. I made my first post on the forum last month (see below)
I have to make a decision on what to buy this week. I was hoping the perfect tux from Nitr-o would pop up on ebay, but none have come up in my size (48L). The only one I've found in my price range that I like is the Jos-a-Banks signature peak lapel.

I also found the Thick as Thieves site and really like their philosophy and style. I am contemplated ditching the tux and just getting one of their black one button peak lapel suits. I am having trouble imagining a situation where I'll have the opportunity to wear a tux more than once every 1.5-2 years.

I bought my first and so far only adult suit last year and it's not that great. It's a charcoal pinstripe 'Jones New York' brand suit from Mens Warehouse. Since then I've become a regular worker on this forum and learned much, I think.

Any opinions on this? Having a nice custom-made black suit in my wardrobe seems like a much smarter purchase than an entry level off-the-rack tux.

My original post:
Hello all!
My sister has a wedding coming up in July. It will not be a traditional wedding party so I am not required to match anyone, and I've decided I wish to purchase a tuxedo for the event. I've been reading threads on this forum and Andy's for several weeks. Here is what I want.
Peak lapel
One button
**** pockets
No venting (probably)
Somewhat of a slim cut if I can find it.
My budget is approximately $500-600

I went to a tailor last night and had him measure me. I plan to order online and take it back to him and get it altered.
This is one that I've found which seems to meet my criteria:
http://www.josbank.com/IWCatProductP...duct_Id=239324

The one problem is the matching jacket and pants sizes. I need a 48L jacket, but a 40" waist pants. That jacket comes with a 43" pants (or 42, I'm not sure). Is that a discrepancy that the tailor can realistically deal with? Or should I look elsewhere?

I've also been checking out those Isaia tux's on eBay. Waiting to hear back from the seller on sizes.

Thank you all for any advice!

 

[TheHoff]

Originally Posted by cbsteven

The one problem is the matching jacket and pants sizes. I need a 48L jacket, but a 40" waist pants. That jacket comes with a 43" pants (or 42, I'm not sure). Is that a discrepancy that the tailor can realistically deal with? Or should I look elsewhere?
I'll leave the black suit v. tux to others... A 3" discrepancy in the pants waist size is something a competent tailor can easily handle. I typically take a 9" drop (42 jacket, 32-33 pants) and I always have to have the pants altered -- you can go the easy route and just take them in from the waist or what I prefer is to have the pants re-cut. The tailor will take in space from the bottom of the seat and from the legs for a slimmer profile as well as shrink the waist.

 

[Master Shake]

Have you considered buying a solid navy suit? I am not sure if TaT offers one.

A tux is probably not the best idea if you currently have only one suit, especially when you plan on wearing the tux once every two years or so.

You should have more than one suit, and a solid navy suit will be far more versatile than a black suit. If you prefer, a solid charcoal would also be good. Either one would be perfectly fine at a wedding that does not require black tie.

 

[Countertenor]

Originally Posted by Master Shake

Have you considered buying a solid navy suit? I am not sure if TaT offers one.

TaT doesn't have a regularly-available solid navy suit. (I really wish they did

)

 

[Master Shake]

Okay, I should have looked before posting. After looking at the TaT website, I see they have solid charcoal and gray fabrics. I'd go for the solid charcoal over black.

 

[cbsteven]

I dunno, maybe I'll be ostracized from the community for this.. but I really don't like how navy suits look. The only suits that appeal to me are in the greyscale family. I also don't like tomatoes. I don't know why.

The one suit I do have is charcoal. I think I've managed to put my situations where I can wear it like 6-7 times since I bought it 18 months ago, but I'm always looking for excuses to wear suits more often.

Is a black suit not an important tool in a man's wardrobe, or is it really only used for funerals and such? This would be for nightlife purposes generally, and this wedding.

 

[Master Shake]

I don't believe a black suit is an important part of a man's wardrobe. Your only suit is a charcoal pinstripe. A solid would be more versatile and more appropriate for social engagements, even if it is the same color.

I don't want to get into a discussion over the alleged propriety of wearing black suits. The "rule" was that black suits were not worn for business. As Manton laments, this is not followed so much anymore.

I imagine you could do worse than a black suit if you only wanted a suit for going out, etc. If, however, I wanted to wear more suits, and currently only had one, I would look for a suit that was more versatile and could be worn for business/interviews, etc.

 

[lawyerdad]

I can't think of a situation in which a black suit would be appropriate but a charcoal suit would not. Charcoal is perfectly appropriate for funerals, and for any wedding at which a black suit would be appropriate. What people call "charcoal" can actually span a variety of shades. At the darker end of that scale, about 70% of people out there would probably describe it as "black". But generally a decent charcoal suit will look better than a true black suit, which can easily look too "flat" and cheap, and in the opinions of many is too prissy and effeminate.
I recommend saving true black for when you take the tuxedo plunge.

 

[lawyerdad]

Originally Posted by lawyerdad

I can't think of a situation in which a black suit would be appropriate but a charcoal suit would not. Charcoal is perfectly appropriate for funerals, and for any wedding at which a black suit would be appropriate. What people call "charcoal" can actually span a variety of shades. At the darker end of that scale, about 70% of people out there would probably describe it as "black". But generally a decent charcoal suit will look better than a true black suit, which can easily look too "flat" and cheap, and in the opinions of many is too prissy and effeminate.
I recommend saving true black for when you take the tuxedo plunge.

Edit: I see that you have a charcoal pinstripe. If you're not a fan of navy, I'd still go with a solid charcoal, in perhaps a different shade than your pinstripe, over black.

 

[Countertenor]

Originally Posted by lawyerdad

I can't think of a situation in which a black suit would be appropriate but a charcoal suit would not. Charcoal is perfectly appropriate for funerals, and for any wedding at which a black suit would be appropriate. What people call "charcoal" can actually span a variety of shades. At the darker end of that scale, about 70% of people out there would probably describe it as "black". But generally a decent charcoal suit will look better than a true black suit, which can easily look too "flat" and cheap, and in the opinions of many is too prissy and effeminate.
I recommend saving true black for when you take the tuxedo plunge

Edit: I see that you have a charcoal pinstripe. If you're not a fan of navy, I'd still go with a solid charcoal, in perhaps a different shade than your pinstripe, over black.

Sounds good to me.

 

[Fuuma]

Originally Posted by lawyerdad

Edit: I see that you have a charcoal pinstripe. If you're not a fan of navy, I'd still go with a solid charcoal, in perhaps a different shade than your pinstripe, over black.

The OP is considering a getting a tuxedo or a 1B peak lapel from a label that cuts them short and slim....definitely not office wear anyway. Considering that most people don't even have the obligation to wear suits I'd say black would be the best colour for this one, it goes well as a going out/fun suit, is elegant for parties like marriages and can easily be separated and paired with jeans.

 

[Edward Appleby]

I'm pretty anti-black suit, but if what you mainly want it for is clubs and such, black is probably a good bet. The only thing to be careful about is to make sure that it doesn't wash you out. A lot of people for some reason seem to think that they look good in black when in reality they look like ghosts.

 

[cbsteven]

Thank you all for the replies and opinions.
I am definitely leaning towards the suit and away from the OTR tuxedo, but you have me hemming and hawing about the color now.
TAT's charcoal looks a bit on the light side. I will have to do some serious thinking on this for the next day or so. Of course more opinions are welcome!

 

[Bandwagonesque]

Originally Posted by cbsteven

Thank you all for the replies and opinions. I am definitely leaning towards the suit and away from the OTR tuxedo, but you have me hemming and hawing about the color now. TAT's charcoal looks a bit on the light side. I will have to do some serious thinking on this for the next day or so. Of course more opinions are welcome!
I don't think a charcoal that is too close to black is ideal. It will look like somebody left your black suit out in the sun, and it faded a bit. The charcoal colour offered by TAT is what I would say is 85% black. It's light enough that it won't look like a faded black, and dark enough that it won't look like a medium grey.

 

[op2]

So is you main concern color?
You said no venting, but jackets can usually look damn good with a vent (or two).