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Puffy Shirt in the Lower Back

americanninja

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I'm looking for advice on what I can ask the tailor to do, to get rid of this puffiness in the lower back area of my tailored shirts.

I've read that you should have roughly 1-3 inches of pinched fabric to allow for a comfortable fit. I hate nothing more than having a restricted feeling, or a shirt that fits skin tight, to where you can see the imperfections of the body (i.e. a gut sticking out or buttons pulling when you are in a seated position).

I will include some photos of my shirt below. I roughly have about 1.5inch (4cm) of pinched fabric in the lower back area (you can see in the photo). I feel that I need this, as when I sit down my body shifts with my stomach pulling the spare fabric to the front. So I don't know if I can have what I am looking for, but I figure I will ask for some advice from the experts here.

One more thing to add. The shirt does look okay when I first tuck it into my pants. However, once i move my arms around to reach for something, or after 5 minutes or so, it pulls out and balloons, like what can be seen in the photos below.

Thank you in advance!







 

americanninja

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Your local tailor can add rear darts for about $15. That ought to help.
Thanks for the quick response! I was thinking that too, but I think because I have double pleats, adding darts would look bad right? I have not seen a shirt with both. And I think I need the double pleats, as I tried having my shirts without them and it would be too restrictive and uncomfortable. Once I added the double pleats in, they fit much more comfortable. So I kind of need to stick with the pleats. I have a pretty significant drop between my chest/shoulders and my waist. I guess this is why. Chest body measurement is 101cm and my waist measurement is 86cm.
 

TOstyle

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Thanks for the quick response! I was thinking that too, but I think because I have double pleats, adding darts would look bad right? I have not seen a shirt with both. And I think I need the double pleats, as I tried having my shirts without them and it would be too restrictive and uncomfortable. Once I added the double pleats in, they fit much more comfortable. So I kind of need to stick with the pleats. I have a pretty significant drop between my chest/shoulders and my waist. I guess this is why. Chest body measurement is 101cm and my waist measurement is 86cm.
Wouldn't be ideal, but it would look better than it does now.
 

Maccimus

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Making it tighter wouldn't help if you keep wearing low/medium rise pants/jeans.
 

americanninja

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Making it tighter wouldn't help if you keep wearing low/medium rise pants/jeans.
This is very interesting. I had not thought of that. The reason for those low/medium rise pants, is because that's how most of the "off the rack" suit pants, are made these days. I guess I've gotten used to them, that I had the tailor copy the fit during the fittings. So if I were to have the pants made to wear higher, this issue would go away? Can you elaborate on why?

Thanks in advance!
 

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