Puffiness in my shirts

[Razeus]

I need to know what to do to rid my shirts of the puffiness that occurs when I tuck them in. Mostly in the back. Sleeves fit fine, but these nice shirts seem odd when puffed out. Chest size is correct. They just don't fit like I see them on the models on the 'net...

 

[Manton]

Sounds quite simply like your shirts are too big. This is often a problem for slim guys who buy American shirts, or shirts made for the American market. The collar and point to point may be fine, but the rest of the body is too big.

I have read here many times of people having success in getting RTW shirts taken in to reduce this excess. The other option is to get bespoke or MTM shirts.

 

[Rolo]

Take them to an alterations tailor and have the sides taken in (and probably the sleeves narrowed). It's an easy, and relatively cheap, alteration.

It makes a world of difference.

 

[Razeus]

Ya, I'm a skinny guy. 5 foot 9, 165 pounds. I know my length (33) and neck size (15.5) is correct. Anything smaller would feel tight and look short. I didn't know this was an American problem. How much do shirts cost to get taken in (range would be fine)?

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Razeus

I didn't know this was an American problem.

It's an American problem in that shirts made for the American market tend to be full around the middle. I think that's a combination of catering to perceived American tastes (makers assume or know that this is what most American consumers want) and working from the assumption that Americans are fat. Shirts for the European market are made with slimmer bodies.

 

[Rolo]

Originally Posted by Razeus

Ya, I'm a skinny guy. 5 foot 9, 165 pounds. I know my length (33) and neck size (15.5) is correct. Anything smaller would feel tight and look short. I didn't know this was an American problem. How much do shirts cost to get taken in (range would be fine)?


The cost depends on your tailor and can vary drastically. I think I pay my current alterations tailor $18 or $20 to take in the body and narrow the sleeves.

 

[TheHoff]

Originally Posted by Rolo

The cost depends on your tailor and can vary drastically. I think I pay my current alterations tailor $18 or $20 to take in the body and narrow the sleeves.
Does darting the back have the same effect on the girth without being so permanent as removing material? I typically just have mine darted.

 

[Manton]

Darting does remove material, just from a different place. Darting a shirt and taking it in at the sides accomplish different things. If you have prominent shoulder blades and need a lot of cloth along the upper back, but want the lower back to hug the lines of your body as closely as possible, then darts will do that. If you just want a slimmer shirt overall, in particular in front and at the sides, then taking it in at the side seams will do that.

 

[TheHoff]

Originally Posted by Manton

Darting does remove material, just from a different place. Darting a shirt and taking it in at the sides accomplish different things. If you have prominent shoulder blades and need a lot of cloth along the upper back, but want the lower back to hug the lines of your body as closely as possible, then darts will do that. If you just want a slimmer shirt overall, in particular in front and at the sides, then taking it in at the side seams will do that.

Thank you for the explanation; I am broad in the shoulders for my height so darting would be appropriate. I didn't realize it is also a permanent alteration.

 

[Razeus]

Can someone post a pic of what exactly my shirt should look like when tucked in?

Front, side and back views if you have them.

All I really wear to work and about: button down shirt, belt, pleated pants, socks, shoes. If it's breezy or cool, a sport coat.

 

[HalfCanvas]

I'm pretty sure darts can be removed. However, sometimes the stitch holes are tough to completely get out.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by HalfCanvas

I'm pretty sure darts can be removed.
Maybe shirt darts are made differently. On jackets, a cut is made and a narrow sliver (diamond shape) piece of cloth is removed. It's permanent.

 

[dave]

Originally Posted by Manton

Maybe shirt darts are made differently. On jackets, a cut is made and a narrow sliver (diamond shape) piece of cloth is removed. It's permanent.


I believe that's how my shirts are darted as well. I have the same problem with puffy shirts since I have broad shoulders and a slimmer waist. The darts take care of the problem fairly well though.

I've also begun solving the problem by adopting a more sedentary lifestyle and putting on weight. less flattering but you'll save a ton on alterations.

 

[Razeus]

I should mention my waist is a 32. So you guys are saying darting my shirts would be the best option?

 

[TheHoff]

Originally Posted by Razeus

I should mention my waist is a 32. So you guys are saying darting my shirts would be the best option?

A quality local tailor would give you the best option for your body shape, but darting works for me. I checked my shirts and they appear to have been darted without having material removed -- this makes sense to me as I wouldn't have to dispose of an expensive shirt because of a few extra pounds in the future.