• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour, our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 8: Cuir de Russie card case from Equus Leather

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 8th auction is for a Cuir de Russie card case from Equus Leather. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

"Puckered" Lapels?

Jolly Green

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2006
Messages
82
Reaction score
0
What causes the "waviness" or "puckering" (or whatever the correct term is) along the outer edge of this gentlemans lapel? It is an effect that I see often and don't care for.

How should a suit be constructed and/or maintained to prevent it from happening?


link to the Sartorialist
 

gdl203

Affiliate Vendor
Affiliate Vendor
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Jun 9, 2005
Messages
39,946
Reaction score
28,577
Originally Posted by Jolly Green
What causes the "waviness" or "puckering" (or whatever the correct term is) along the outer edge of this gentlemans lapel? It is an effect that I see often and don't care for.

How should a suit be constructed and/or maintained to prevent it from happening?


link to the Sartorialist


Looks like a fused lapel that went through one too many rain shower...
 

a tailor

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Jul 22, 2006
Messages
2,855
Reaction score
114
needs to be pressed.
 

Ivan Kipling

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2006
Messages
2,114
Reaction score
1
I've read a number of explanations, for this . . . one of them being that handwork on Italian made suits, might cause puckers or bubbles, in lapels. My sister's French suits, never had a single bubble or pucker in the lapels' finishing.
 

DocHolliday

Stylish Dinosaur
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 21, 2005
Messages
16,118
Reaction score
1,113
It's not fusing, I don't think. Label bubbles usually manifest as just that -- bubbles. In this case, I'd guess this is a fully canvassed coat, and the top layer is loose. I've seen this happen quite a bit, including on a NWT Golden Fleece I spotted in a Brooks Brothers recently.

I'd guess it was the result of how the jacket was made, or how it was stored. Maybe it's also a result of his posture?
 

Carey

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2006
Messages
174
Reaction score
0
Canvassed lapels and the front of the jacket will pucker if too much moisture (steam) is used when pressing. This is an unfortunate, yet common mistake made by many dry cleaners.

I always request a very low moistur press on my suit jackets and blazers.

It is not a sign of a poorly made garment.
 

Earthmover

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2005
Messages
586
Reaction score
0
Usually, it's not the high amount of steam, but rather (1) low-temperature steam, which has more water content and (2) not using the press vacuum to dry the garment completely before moving on.

I don't know why it happens, but the puckering happens in humid conditions when the cloth absorbs some amount of water. thinner garments seem to have a greater propensity for it, although this is also probably a function of absorbing more water relative to the humidity in comparison to a thicker garment.
 

stach

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2006
Messages
578
Reaction score
1
Sponge the lapels and then press dry. You need to shrink the wool to match the canvas. You might need additional pad stitching to prop it up as well.
 

Jolly Green

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2006
Messages
82
Reaction score
0
Thanks guys.

I seem to remember seeing Pierce Brosnan with bubbly lapels in one of his movies. Bond? I can't remember. Several others too that are on the current "well dressed lists" too.

Yet another reason to pay extra for a good dry cleaner.

Cheers,
D
 

chobochobo

Rubber Chicken
Dubiously Honored
Moderator
Joined
May 7, 2006
Messages
6,709
Reaction score
607
or rather one of my suits, again a BB GF - at first I thought it was dreaded bubbling but in retrospect it could have been my steaming with my home clothes steamer (I can't recall if it was like that before steaming, in which case it was due to the ebay seller). I fixed mine by recreating a bit of curvature during steaming - basically puling either end of the lapel taut and steaming from underneath the lapel to make it convex up, and lo and behold it's fine. I've yet to wear the suit yet, though it's very nice, lots of hand stitching.
 

rssmsvc

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Messages
2,060
Reaction score
3
chobochobo said:
or rather one of my suits, again a BB GF - at first I thought it was dreaded bubbling but in retrospect it could have been my steaming with my home clothes steamer /QUOTE]

Was that the whirlpool steamer ?
 

chobochobo

Rubber Chicken
Dubiously Honored
Moderator
Joined
May 7, 2006
Messages
6,709
Reaction score
607
rssmsvc said:
Originally Posted by chobochobo
or rather one of my suits, again a BB GF - at first I thought it was dreaded bubbling but in retrospect it could have been my steaming with my home clothes steamer /QUOTE]

Was that the whirlpool steamer ?

nope, Con-air - the usual type that looks like a vacuum cleaner.
 

needshoehelp

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2007
Messages
1,150
Reaction score
2
I'm resurrecting this old thread, as I've a Caruso suit with this problem on one of its lapels (therefore it's certainly not a fusing problem). Is there a best way to fix this? Should I take it to a (good) tailor to see what he can do, or is it simpler than that? I'm not sure I can visualize what the poster a few posts up is doing.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How many pairs of shoes do you own?

  • 1 - 4

    Votes: 30 3.6%
  • 5 - 10

    Votes: 143 17.3%
  • 11 - 20

    Votes: 272 32.9%
  • 21 - 30

    Votes: 130 15.7%
  • 31 - 40

    Votes: 71 8.6%
  • 41 - 50

    Votes: 49 5.9%
  • 51 - 60

    Votes: 25 3.0%
  • 61 - 70

    Votes: 22 2.7%
  • 71 - 80

    Votes: 17 2.1%
  • 81 - 90

    Votes: 7 0.8%
  • 91 - 100

    Votes: 9 1.1%
  • 100+

    Votes: 53 6.4%

Related Threads

Staff online

Forum statistics

Threads
429,123
Messages
9,229,498
Members
193,737
Latest member
Sebastian R
Top