Puckered collars on suit jackets?

[Zubberah]

Noticed recently in Intolerable Cruelty that most of George Clooney's jackets collars were "puckered" (not sure if this is the term but sort of bubbled) around the seams and not ironed out . And I presume he was wearing quality suits.

I have also seen this on upmarket suits from Zegna and even Brioni and Oxxford (from pics on eBay and in stores).

My question is - is this a flaw of manufacture or is it considered acceptable?


** EDIT** I have also seen this on cheap suits like Cerruti which is fused.

 

[LA Guy]

I think that you're talking about the hand-finishing on the lapels. It's actually considered by some to be the mark of a good suit.

 

[DandySF]

The "puckering" you see is the evidence of hand tailoring, in contrast to a machine which produces clean, flat, and nearly invisible seams. Some machine-made suits will include touches of hand tailoring in the most visible parts of a coat--the lapels and the pockets.

A small and savvy group of people considers the evidence of hand tailoring desirable because it shows the work of the human hand, faults and all. It also appeals to people who have an appreciation for artisinal products and the labor and craftsmanship that go into creating them.

 

[FCS]

Do you have a particular picture about this 'puckering' suit?

 

[marc39]

Or, the "puckering" could be the result of a cheaply fused
suit---pieces of the garment glued together. After a few trips to the dry cleaners, the heat of the cleaning process causes a breakdown of the glue and the cloth puckers. Zegna is famous for fusing their suits.

 

[HitMan009]

Hmm,

Is it really good to have the edge of the lapel pucker? I always figured that the lapel should be smooth. Maybe you are refering to something else, like pic-stitching(spelling correct?). I haven't seen the movie so I can't comment on it particularly. I would like to know everyone's comment, this is a good topic to discuss. I figure that puckering of any kind is not desired. Isn't the concept for the suit to be of smooth, clean lines?


-HitMan009

 

[Gordon77]

Hi guys, Noob here...hope I’m ok to resurrect this thread after 15 years

I took the plunge and got a bespoke suit recently (London, not Savile row, sooner not say name as not wishing to look like I’m complaining- I was really pleased with the suit in general).

Having had it a few days I noticed the lapels are just a little different in that one is perfectly smooth and the other has a slight puckering, maybe due to how it was held when the stitching was done (?). Please see pic.

I’m going to bring it back to the tailor to see what he says, but I would really appreciate any advice on what you guys think about it and if it is a very difficult thing to alter. I know it’s a small issue, and probably no one not into clothes would notice it, but to me it makes the jacket look a little asymmetrical...

Thanks in advance!

Gordon

 

[dieworkwear]

View attachment 1109460 Hi guys, Noob here...hope I’m ok to resurrect this thread after 15 years

I took the plunge and got a bespoke suit recently (London, not Savile row, sooner not say name as not wishing to look like I’m complaining- I was really pleased with the suit in general).

Having had it a few days I noticed the lapels are just a little different in that one is perfectly smooth and the other has a slight puckering, maybe due to how it was held when the stitching was done (?). Please see pic.

I’m going to bring it back to the tailor to see what he says, but I would really appreciate any advice on what you guys think about it and if it is a very difficult thing to alter. I know it’s a small issue, and probably no one not into clothes would notice it, but to me it makes the jacket look a little asymmetrical...

Thanks in advance!

Gordon

You should be able to fix that with a good pressing. Have you steamed the suit? Lapels can sometimes pucker like that from steaming.

 

[Gordon77]

Thanks dieworkwear....I never thought of that...maybe it’s possible they forgot to press one lapel before giving it to me in that case. I haven’t steamed it myself. I will bring it in to them and let them have a go at pressing as they will have a proper machine. Thanks again