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Puckered collars on suit jackets?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Zubberah, Nov 4, 2003.

  1. Zubberah

    Zubberah Senior member

    Oct 13, 2003
    Noticed recently in Intolerable Cruelty that most of George Clooney's jackets collars were "puckered" (not sure if this is the term but sort of bubbled) around the seams and not ironed out . And I presume he was wearing quality suits.

    I have also seen this on upmarket suits from Zegna and even Brioni and Oxxford (from pics on eBay and in stores).

    My question is - is this a flaw of manufacture or is it considered acceptable?

    ** EDIT** I have also seen this on cheap suits like Cerruti which is fused.
  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

    Mar 8, 2002
    Moscow, Idaho
    I think that you're talking about the hand-finishing on the lapels. It's actually considered by some to be the mark of a good suit.
  3. DandySF

    DandySF Senior member

    Sep 24, 2003
    San Francisco
    The "puckering" you see is the evidence of hand tailoring, in contrast to a machine which produces clean, flat, and nearly invisible seams. Some machine-made suits will include touches of hand tailoring in the most visible parts of a coat--the lapels and the pockets.

    A small and savvy group of people considers the evidence of hand tailoring desirable because it shows the work of the human hand, faults and all. It also appeals to people who have an appreciation for artisinal products and the labor and craftsmanship that go into creating them.
  4. FCS

    FCS Senior member

    Nov 1, 2003
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
    Do you have a particular picture about this 'puckering' suit?
  5. marc39

    marc39 Well-Known Member

    Nov 2, 2003
    Or, the "puckering" could be the result of a cheaply fused
    suit---pieces of the garment glued together. After a few trips to the dry cleaners, the heat of the cleaning process causes a breakdown of the glue and the cloth puckers. Zegna is famous for fusing their suits.
  6. HitMan009

    HitMan009 Senior member

    May 23, 2003

    Is it really good to have the edge of the lapel pucker? I always figured that the lapel should be smooth. Maybe you are refering to something else, like pic-stitching(spelling correct?). I haven't seen the movie so I can't comment on it particularly. I would like to know everyone's comment, this is a good topic to discuss. I figure that puckering of any kind is not desired. Isn't the concept for the suit to be of smooth, clean lines?


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