Protect Ya Neck: Shirt Collars, Knots and Balance

[JohnMRobie]

The Spier collar specifically is very long. There’s no way that collar is not tucking under when worn with a suit or sport coat.

My Sid spread collars have similar measurements to the drakes (also OTR) shirt in this pic.
(No pics of Sid shirts handy)

View attachment 1890041

He wasn’t looking for a spread collar though. 🤷‍♂️

 

[stephen nyc]

The Spier collar specifically is very long. There’s no way that collar is not tucking under when worn with a suit or sport coat.

My Sid spread collars have similar measurements to the drakes (also OTR) shirt in this pic.
(No pics of Sid shirts handy)

View attachment 1890041

That’s a nice shirt, but not exactly the collar I was looking for. Thanks

 

[ValidusLA]

Great example. This collar does relieve some of the facial roundness where a short stubby spread would look silly.
You also do well with your hair having some volume to add height that elongates your head more.

Just my opinion.

Yes, I try to get upward volume to elongate the face upwards and then make it look even longer with the goatee pointing "down."

Back in HS we had to be cleanshaven, and football made me shave my head, so I know what I look like with no hair and no beard. Its not pretty, basically a circle.

 

[JUAN MANUEL]

Interesting topic. All the elements must have balance in proportions:

- Jacket collar and lapel
- Shirt collar
- Tie knot
- Wearer's head and neck dimensions.

I have thick neck and small bald head so very thick tie knots make me look goofy. But I also have wide shoulders so small collars and small knots make me look like goofier.

I use 7.5 or 8 cm jacket lapel and try to balance the size of the knot with the shirt collar. Planning and checking ahead is rewarding. I have spend lots of money buying additional ties in business trips because the collar / tie proportions where incorrect.

Cheers

 

[garigo]

Happy to contribute! Jean-Manuel Moreau suit and shirt, Cappelli tie.

 

[jdgershbein]

For many years, I have been having my shirts made with the RILEY COLLAR (also known as a scalloped collar), named for the former Los Angeles Lakers coach, Pat Riley, who popularized them on the sideline and as an NBC color commentator for the NBA. I always liked the curvature. I also have my button done in a slight crossover to hold the tie knot firmly underneath the collar.

And I never leave my house until my dimple is perfectly symmetric.

It's my signature.

 

[JohnMRobie]

For many years, I have been having my shirts made with the RILEY COLLAR (also known as a scalloped collar), named for the former Los Angeles Lakers coach, Pat Riley, who popularized them on the sideline and as an NBC color commentator for the NBA. I always liked the curvature. I also have my button done in a slight crossover to hold the tie knot firmly underneath the collar.

And I never leave my house until my dimple is perfectly symmetric.

It's my signature.

Have you ever contemplated having your maker add some tie space so you don’t crop the full Windsor into a diamond shape like that? Or is that an intentional decision?

 

[Sreezy36]

For many years, I have been having my shirts made with the RILEY COLLAR (also known as a scalloped collar), named for the former Los Angeles Lakers coach, Pat Riley, who popularized them on the sideline and as an NBC color commentator for the NBA. I always liked the curvature. I also have my button done in a slight crossover to hold the tie knot firmly underneath the collar.

And I never leave my house until my dimple is perfectly symmetric.

It's my signature.

In principle, actually like the type of collar that Pat Riley uses when used correctly. Not my personal preference but it works for him. However, there are a few characteristics that both his shirt collar and tie knot have that enable it to work, when it does actually work.

1. The fusing of the collar must be soft enough to allow a natural curving of the collar at his collar bone and where the collar meets the lapel. That curving effect also compliments the curved shape of the collar.

2. A slim FIH knot which is a perfect knot for that type of collar. It doesn’t eat up too much tie space and is in good proportion relative to the spacing.

3. Also, choosing a collar that has a good proportion. Not too large not too small.

 

[emptym]

Happy to contribute! Jean-Manuel Moreau suit and shirt, Cappelli tie.

View attachment 1891035

I love the tie and jacket. Imo, high, cutaway collars, like this one expose too much of the collar band, though, which I don't love, fwiw.

For many years, I have been having my shirts made with the RILEY COLLAR (also known as a scalloped collar), named for the former Los Angeles Lakers coach, Pat Riley, who popularized them on the sideline and as an NBC color commentator for the NBA. I always liked the curvature. I also have my button done in a slight crossover to hold the tie knot firmly underneath the collar.

And I never leave my house until my dimple is perfectly symmetric.

It's my signature.

Neat! I forgot about those collars. I had some made back in the 90s. Might still have one or two at my parents' house. You might add some tie space to the collars next time, like in the pics Sreezy36 posted of Riley himself.

 

[jdgershbein]

Have you ever contemplated having your maker add some tie space so you don’t crop the full Windsor into a diamond shape like that? Or is that an intentional decision?

That is intentional.
I prefer that look.

 

[JohnMRobie]

That is intentional.
I prefer that look.

Interesting.

As emptym mentioned you can see a fairly significant amount of tie space on Riley’s here. Compared to yours which looks like it actually might have negative tie space.

It’s also obviously hard to tell without seeing your face but based on the pictures you posted it looks like you may have a longer neck. If that’s the case, a taller collar may balance better.

 

[emptym]

^Yeah, I didn't realize that you'd suggested more tie space before me. The no space, diamond knot, effect is interesting. But geez, Pat Riley's collars and tie knots look great imo. I wonder if anyone, like @Shirtmaven, might know who made his shirts.

 

[jdgershbein]

Interesting.

As emptym mentioned you can see a fairly significant amount of tie space on Riley’s here. Compared to yours which looks like it actually might have negative tie space. View attachment 1891511
It’s also obviously hard to tell without seeing your face but based on the pictures you posted it looks like you may have a longer neck. If that’s the case, a taller collar may balance better.

I do have a thin neck, and my shirtmaker allows for it. My collars do sit a bit higher. I don't dig the horizontal space under the collar, and I'm not a FIH knot guy.

It's those little rebellions that give us our style, yes?

 

[Shirtmaven]

Happy to contribute! Jean-Manuel Moreau suit and shirt, Cappelli tie.

View attachment 1891035

Too much collar band showing.

 

[Shirtmaven]

For many years, I have been having my shirts made with the RILEY COLLAR (also known as a scalloped collar), named for the former Los Angeles Lakers coach, Pat Riley, who popularized them on the sideline and as an NBC color commentator for the NBA. I always liked the curvature. I also have my button done in a slight crossover to hold the tie knot firmly underneath the collar.

And I never leave my house until my dimple is perfectly symmetric.

It's my signature.

Term for button crossover is overclock.
-1/4" tie space. I have never made this collar for myself