Protect Ya Neck: Shirt Collars, Knots and Balance

[JohnMRobie]

No knot to factor in today but testing out a new button down collar from my shirt maker for an option to have in the arsenal for more casual days.

 

[te0o]

No knot to factor in today but testing out a new button down collar from my shirt maker for an option to have in the arsenal for more casual days.
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I think your face shape is somewhat oblong which would be better suited by a taller collar, especially when wearing a jacket.

I guess the aim would be to create a deeper V-shape around your neck which would work better in framing your face.

For this reason, I am a big fan of 100 Hands oxford button-downs - they've got excellent collar geometry for this purpose. A photo of one of mine:

 

[JohnMRobie]

I think your face shape is somewhat oblong which would be better suited by a taller collar, especially when wearing a jacket.

I guess the aim would be to create a deeper V-shape around your neck which would work better in framing your face.

For this reason, I am a big fan of 100 Hands oxford button-downs - they've got excellent collar geometry for this purpose. A photo of one of mine:
View attachment 1887291

Thanks for the suggestion. Brings up an interesting point. I may see about moving the button placement. The collar itself actually stands pretty high on my neck but adjusting the button spacing may allow me to have a larger V. As it stands the 2nd button being undone is fine for wearing with knits or out for a dinner but not sure I could get away with it for anything client facing (at least have a mental block of it)

 

[comrade]

+1. It is wild how different that Spier cut makes you look @ValidusLA.

@breakaway01 - I was in the same boat. I pretty much tried everything. There are some I like more than others. I have been really happy with the Neapolitan stuff I’ve been wearing. The only downside is my other suits are taunting me as they sit in my closet. That being said I’m also excited to try a different iteration of a drape cut. I’m doing a NxNW inspired suit. Unfortunately I started to have the crazy idea that maybe it would be fun to make a Neapolitan one and the same cloth and tweak a few details from my standard cut with that maker and do a side by side. I’m a sick person.

I’m a sick person.
Perhaps. But at least you probably live in a place where tailored clothing is actually worn so these excercises are not limited to you
posing in front of a mirror.

 

[emptym]

Wait, is the red jacket custom and the brown one from S&M? I thought you wrote that the S&M one has narrower lapels, but the brown has wider ones. In any case, personally, I prefer everything in the second pic, from the collar and lapels to the shoulders and sleevehead to the shirt collar and tie knot. It does look more relaxed imo.

No knot to factor in today but testing out a new button down collar from my shirt maker for an option to have in the arsenal for more casual days.
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I like this collar a lot. The only thing I'd change is to make the ends of the collar band rounded instead of squared. But that's just my preference.

@te0o, imo, your collar is too large relative to your neck and shoulders. But it's a more flamboyant, Italian look, which may be what you're going for.

 

[te0o]

@te0o, imo, your collar is too large relative to your neck and shoulders. But it's a more flamboyant, Italian look, which may be what you're going for.

It's a fair observation, I think it's definitely a bit of a 'look' but in this case it's also not helped by the jacket. Here it is worn with a jacket with stronger and broader shoulders:

I think it looks more balanced but would be keen to hear your thoughts.

 

[ValidusLA]

Wait, is the red jacket custom and the brown one from S&M? I thought you wrote that the S&M one has narrower lapels, but the brown has wider ones. In any case, personally, I prefer everything in the second pic, from the collar and lapels to the shoulders and sleevehead to the shirt collar and tie knot. It does look more relaxed imo.

It does look more "relaxed", and yes thats the S+M one. The shoulders, objectively, are not as good a fit on the brown. Hard to get across in one photo I suppose.

Interesting you like that one more. I think that photo is an agglomeration of Styleforum accepted things - relaxed shoulders, soft cuts, spread collar.

To me, it looks worse on me, by a long margin, and others had expressed the same thing earlier.

 

[hpreston]

No knot to factor in today but testing out a new button down collar from my shirt maker for an option to have in the arsenal for more casual days.
View attachment 1887267 View attachment 1887269

I think your face shape is somewhat oblong which would be better suited by a taller collar, especially when wearing a jacket.

I guess the aim would be to create a deeper V-shape around your neck which would work better in framing your face.

For this reason, I am a big fan of 100 Hands oxford button-downs - they've got excellent collar geometry for this purpose. A photo of one of mine:
View attachment 1887291

Face/head/neck geometry aside:

I like the roll of @Jmr928's collar over the non-roll of @te0o's collar

 

[ter1413]

Ok I have an important question. When you tie a four in hand, do you start with the wide end of the tie on your left side or your right side? I have always started with wide end on left, but I have no idea why. It results in a knot that angles slightly towards the jacket breast pocket.
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I've tried to tie the same knot with the wide end starting on the right and muscle memory literally won't allow me to do it. I'm right handed, in case it matters.

Just tie it the way you have been. What you posted above looks fine.

 

[emptym]

It's a fair observation, I think it's definitely a bit of a 'look' but in this case it's also not helped by the jacket. Here it is worn with a jacket with stronger and broader shoulders:

View attachment 1887393

I think it looks more balanced but would be keen to hear your thoughts.

Yes, it does look better both relative to your shoulders and neck in this pic.

It does look more "relaxed", and yes thats the S+M one. The shoulders, objectively, are not as good a fit on the brown. Hard to get across in one photo I suppose.

Interesting you like that one more. I think that photo is an agglomeration of Styleforum accepted things - relaxed shoulders, soft cuts, spread collar.

To me, it looks worse on me, by a long margin, and others had expressed the same thing earlier.

True, the custom jacket does look like it fits you better in the shoulders and chest. But I'd say the S&M's style details look better on you than the others'. But I'm only judging from one pic of each, taken from fairly close up. It's really hard to take a pic that's accurate. And it's definitely personal preference. I love a really soft style to the point that most of my shirt collars are unlined, most of my jackets are unpadded, and some are even uncanvased. Although, the recent I Sarti jackets are able to maintain a soft look while having both canvasing and a bit of shoulder padding.

 

[物の哀れ]

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Superb lapels and shoulders on this coat - Orazio?

 

[JohnMRobie]

Superb lapels and shoulders on this coat - Orazio?

Thank you. Sartoria Pastena Elegance.

 

[ter1413]

Thank you. Sartoria Pastena Elegance.

Yeah...that is nice!

 

[ter1413]

I have an important question.
View attachment 1882937

And I am sorry....that is not an "important" question.

Why on earth would you like/want EXACT symmetry for your tie/knot to look PERFECT?

What I am looking is a shirt/tie/knot combo that is top notch!

PLEASE don't overthink things.

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

And I am sorry....that is not an "important" question.

Why on earth would you like/want EXACT symmetry for your tie/knot to look PERFECT?

What I am looking is a shirt/tie/knot combo that is top notch!

PLEASE don't overthink things.