Proportions of Ties

[Zain]

I thought I would create a thread to compare the proportions of ties from various labels relative to each other. I tended to purchase 8.5 cm (measured at their widest point) ties exclusively until I realized that even with the same measurements at their widest point, the appearance of a tie at your collar can vary quite greatly depending on how aggressively it's tapered.

I think it would be useful to determine whether one can or should go up or down in measurements at the widest point, i.e. ±0.5 cm to 1 cm, when purchasing from a manufacturer that they haven't purchased from yet.

Most aggressively tapered from widest point, i.e. most triangular

Kiton

Vanda

Middle: E. Marinella, Luigi Borrelli, Isaia, Kent Wang, Berg & Berg

Drake's

Tie Your Tie

Least aggressively tapered from widest point, i.e. most bottle-shaped

Kiton is listed as the most aggressively tapered while Tie Your Tie is the least aggressively tapered. I also have a Zegna Venticinque which I would put between Drake's and Tie Your Tie, but I haven't listed it since I suspect their Venticinque/Quindici ties may be cut differently from their main-line ties.

How would I use this list? For example, if I'm accustomed to 8.5 cm Borrelli ties, I would probably look for a Kiton tie that is 9 cm at the widest point. Conversely, if I'm accustomed to 8 cm Drake's ties, I would probably look for 8.5 cm ties when choosing from Borrelli ties. Additionally, if I thought an 8 cm Drake's tie was too thin, I wouldn't bother to look at Isaia ties of 8 cm since I would expect them to be even thinner at the knot point, but might consider a Tie Your Tie tie of 8 cm to be of sufficient width.

The list isn't precise enough to be an exact science. For example, Vanda's cut is so slightly different from the middle pack that I wouldn't necessarily make a change, but there is a stark and noticeable difference at the opposite ends of the scale (i.e., Kiton vs. Tie Your Tie) for which I would certainly take into account the differences in cut/shape.

Additions and suggestions for changes to this list are welcome.

 

[GBR]

You fail to take fashion into account.

Size changes year by year as manufacturers try to prod people into buying 'this year's look. What might be correct this now will certainly be wrong next year.

 

[Zain]

The list isn't at all concerned with fashion or "what's correct." It's merely meant as a tool for individuals to compare the cut of one manufacturer's tie with another's, assuming identical widths at the widest point, and hence can be used by people of varying preferences.

While manufacturers may change tie widths one year to the next, it's less often that they change the overall cut/shape of their ties. Should the shape be changed, however, it's something that we would certainly want to update.

 

[comrade]

You are correct. I only wear ties on the wide side, 3.75 in minimum.
Not easy to find these days. Nevertheless, ties from different makers
do vary in proportion. I have a bunch of Sulkas which seem to produce
a thicker knot than the several Hilditch and Keys that I own. The few
Ralph Laurens in my collection have the smallest knot. All are equal
in width. Thickness of fabric is also important.

 

[Andy_00]

This is certainly a niche topic but it is equally an issue for me. I find the maximum tie width to be much less important (within the 8-9" range) than the width in the few inches below the knot. In general, I much prefer a straighter, less tapered, shape. I bought a Marinella cashmere recently that I love except for it being too tapered and thus too triangular looking down the blade. This may be influenced by most ties being a little too short for me. Some of the more tapered shapes might be better in a longer length if they are cut to widen closer to the end of the blade.

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

Mostly I order bespoke ties with 8,5 cm width at the widest point and 6,3 cm width just below the knot.

 

[GBR]

Order ties from either or both of David Hober Patrizio Cappelli to your requirements and you won't need to vex yourself with this somewhat doubtful time wasting topic.

 

[vida]

Order ties from either or both of David Hober Patrizio Cappelli to your requirements and you won't need to vex yourself with this somewhat doubtful time wasting topic.

Vex! Come on G, why are you being so ornery...

 

[GBR]

Vex! Come on G, why are you being so ornery...

That is a simple solution to the man's apparent problem

 

[Andy_00]

I understood the thread to be about providing a resource to inform other members about the mid blade dimensions of ties, where this is both (a) non-trivial in determining suitability and (b) not normally disclosed by makers/retailers in describing a tie. So quite useful, albeit niche, for all those members who may be buying non-bespoke ties online (I.e. a large proportion of readers here).

GBR - I suspect you are some kind of deflation bot.

 

[FlyingMonkey]

That is a simple solution to the man's apparent problem

Saying 'just buy bespoke' is like responding (seriously) 'have your butler do it' to a question about ironing or repair.

 

[Caustic Man]

Your butler's assistant doesn't do the ironing?

 

[McKriss]

A tie's proportions and tapering change between makers and fashion cycles. Nowadays it's not uncommon to find ties tapering to 3.8cm, whereas back in the 90's 3cm taper and 10cm width was acceptable.

Most of my clients order an aggressive, "italian" taper that produces a blooming effect below a standard size knot. It is definitely a dramatic look that pairs well with soft tailored, big lapel jackets.

Example: Sevenfold 9.5 cm tapering to 3.6cm, you can tell the high taper by the almost parallel vertical sides

 

[GBR]

Saying 'just buy bespoke' is like responding (seriously) 'have your butler do it' to a question about ironing or repair.

Butlers are sadly unaffordable these days.

 

[mactire]

Mostly I order bespoke ties with 8,5 cm width at the widest point and 6,3 cm width just below the knot.

How are you guys measuring this? I would have thought the placing of the knot is variable depending on how high your trousers are etc.