Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

[saskatoonjay]

With temperature goes down to 10C/50F outside and 20/68F inside, I can again enjoy my PC OCBD. Enjoy your week-end!

Yes! 12°C and raining here, and I’m enjoying my new wide stripe heavy oxford. First time with the utility pockets; I was afraid they’d lean too casual, but they don’t.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Well this is odd.

My navy seersucker and heavy oxford fit perfect.

Baird linen and japanese chambray have hips that are a bit too snug, and the chambray shrunk a fair bit in length as someone suggested it might, and sleeves as well.

Not fun having to return 2 shirts and pay for return shipping again. The remake is appreciated, but I notice a lot of MTM processes are pretty wasteful to get things right.

@saskatoonjay Also, double flapped button pockets aren't too bulky under a SC, they look fine. I didn't notice a difference.

 

[FlyingHorker]

The navy seersucker is by far my favourite fabric out of the 4 I ordered. It feels as soft as poplin, but with very bumpy texture. It has a nice crunchiness to it and more stretch than I thought. I'd love if PC offered more options for seersucker that were in line with the heavy oxfords. University stripes, red oxford etc. I can see myself wearing this shirt year-round. It drapes nicely on me too.

Next I'd put the heavy oxford and baird linens together. The heavy oxford, as before, is more breathable than I'd expect for suck a thick shirt. It'd be nice if there was a red university stripe option. Drape is also great.

The baird linen was heftier than I was expecting, and was even scratchy initially. It softened and wasn't as scratchy with body heat couple hours later. I don't care about wrinkling, but I notice this is the least wrinkly linen I've ever had, and the western pockets hold shape very well and don't bag out or curl so far. Breathable shirt as well.

The japanese light indigo chambray was disappointing. It was more expensive than the standard chambray, and the same price as the slub chambray. It shrunk a lot in length for sleeves and body length and just felt like a standard chambray for such a high price.

I'd rather have gone for the regular chambray in the future, or the slub chambray that had more texture.

For western shirts, soft point collar was definitely the way to go, so thank you to the person who recommended that one to me.

 

[Pb924]

How dare you speak of the Japanese chambray with that tone! Amazing fabric that ages really well, IMO.

 

[FlyingHorker]

How dare you speak of the Japanese chambray with that tone! Amazing fabric that ages really well, IMO.

If it ages well, I may be persuaded.

Any pictures of that aging?

 

[soto_nw]

I'm a bit interested in that collar. How well do the soft collars with the taller bands stand up when you're wearing them unbuttoned and without a jacket? I have some problems with softer collars and lighter fabrics getting floppy, especially with a French front.

Obviously @Seph knows best, but in my experience the soft Roma stands up quite well on its own. I use the Soft Roma and French Front on about 50% of my shirts (I have 12?), and would say it stands up well without a tie (and looks even better with a tie). Also stands up well with a jacket. The collar holds up really well with the Di Sondrio Natural Dye basket Weave and on the DJA Light Blue Bengal Stripe. The DJA is the lightest shirt I have the Soft Roma on, as a popover, and I find it works very well.

But it will all depend on you, just wanted to let you know what my experience with it is. My bias is that I love the Soft Roma and at this point am using it almost exclusively on all of my PC shirts.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I know I already mentioned it, but I'm really gushing over the seersucker.

It drapes as well as oxford, but is much more lightweight and breathable. Since I run hot, this is a year-round shirt for me.

The Ivy BD doesn't slump either compared to my other shirts.

 

[marker2037]

Hi friends. I just got a remake of my first Proper Cloth shirt. It's an untucked casual linen shirt. I want a more relaxed look but still polished. Think southern Italy or Naples during the summer. I'm curious to get folk's feedback on changes. I'm 6ft 190lb with long arms. Thanks!

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I pretty much live in linen. I would agree that the shirt is too long, but I would also add that I think it's too big in your chest and midsection.

 

[saskatoonjay]

Hi friends. I just got a remake of my first Proper Cloth shirt. It's an untucked casual linen shirt. I want a more relaxed look but still polished. Think southern Italy or Naples during the summer. I'm curious to get folk's feedback on changes. I'm 6ft 190lb with long arms. Thanks!

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If you’re getting a custom shirt, why not make it fit your body? Bring in the waist, the cuffs, and the sleeve width. Think about shortening the whole thing, including the sleeves.

 

[FlyingHorker]

How dare you speak of the Japanese chambray with that tone! Amazing fabric that ages really well, IMO.

More on this, yes I see some neat fading along seams, just like denim.

Starting to see the appeal and no longer regret it.

 

[PScarpy]

Hello, I’m new here and I would like to have your opinion, because I am having hard time to get a proper - proper cloth fitting. I really like their fabrics, collar and cuffs options and quality/price ratio is excellent in my opinion. I would like to get the best fit out of it so I can start printing all the shirts I need. I do have slightly unconventional body shape, shoulders are not very broad but chest is broad enough to cause annoying chest pulling (and I do like a more relaxed office-adequate fit for my shirts). At the same time waistline is very narrow (95/96 cm chest vs 74/76 cm waistline). First consideration, I never thought to have square shoulders, but apparently I do need a square adjustment as I see all the main signs of too sloping shirt on myself. Second consideration, I always have the very same issue, shirt is pulling on my pectoral area while I have excess fabric in the back. If I add extra room to chest and yoke I do get right chest but back it’s absolutely oversized all the way down with a very unpleasant excess fabric (especially in the lumbar area).
Bear in mind I never wear shirts untucked and I always use shirt garters and high waist tailored trousers.
Shirt has been washed already. For sure I do need longer sleeves, also I think I need squared shoulders option, rised buttons +1 to prevent placket to poke out and put second button in a “less pulling” place. Any other suggestion?

 

[saskatoonjay]

Hello, I’m new here and I would like to have your opinion, because I am having hard time to get a proper - proper cloth fitting. I really like their fabrics, collar and cuffs options and quality/price ratio is excellent in my opinion. I would like to get the best fit out of it so I can start printing all the shirts I need. I do have slightly unconventional body shape, shoulders are not very broad but chest is broad enough to cause annoying chest pulling (and I do like a more relaxed office-adequate fit for my shirts). At the same time waistline is very narrow (95/96 cm chest vs 74/76 cm waistline). First consideration, I never thought to have square shoulders, but apparently I do need a square adjustment as I see all the main signs of too sloping shirt on myself. Second consideration, I always have the very same issue, shirt is pulling on my pectoral area while I have excess fabric in the back. If I add extra room to chest and yoke I do get right chest but back it’s absolutely oversized all the way down with a very unpleasant excess fabric (especially in the lumbar area).
Bear in mind I never wear shirts untucked and I always use shirt garters and high waist tailored trousers.
Shirt has been washed already. For sure I do need longer sleeves, also I think I need squared shoulders option, rised buttons +1 to prevent placket to poke out and put second button in a “less pulling” place. Any other suggestion?
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I think rear darts are the solution to your back problem.

 

[PScarpy]

I think rear darts are the solution to your back problem.

I tried back darts before on other shirts and they fix lower back but top back get worse, it’s like extra extra fabric on back below armpits form a pouch and that’s ugly as hell.
The only back darts that ever worked on me are converging darts, I found those on a muscle-fit shirt (right off the rack). Those form like an inverted V, going from side bottom back towards the upper center of the back to join the yoke in the middle, but the look is very casual/sporty, good for dressing down but not so good for dressing up.
Anyway thanks for the suggestion, I can give it a try.

 

[saskatoonjay]

I tried back darts before on other shirts and they fix lower back but top back get worse, it’s like extra extra fabric on back below armpits form a pouch and that’s ugly as hell.
The only back darts that ever worked on me are converging darts, I found those on a muscle-fit shirt (right off the rack). Those form like an inverted V, going from side bottom back towards the upper center of the back to join the yoke in the middle, but the look is very casual/sporty, good for dressing down but not so good for dressing up.
Anyway thanks for the suggestion, I can give it a try.

Sorry. Have you talked to their customer service people? They must have seen this problem before.

 

[PScarpy]

Sorry. Have you talked to their customer service people? They must have seen this problem before.

Yes I did, they are extremely nice and it was a pleasure to interact with them, we tried a remake and it fixed sleeve length and shoulders width (almost) but none of the other issues. I am very aware it is not easy to find a proper fitting on me. Though they never mentioned darts and I never asked for those to be honest. The thing that bother me the most is the pulling pectoral vs excess back. There I never know how to fix it, on bespoke it is easier, they just expand the front chest panel by not touching the back of the shirt but here is more complicated as there are only certain fixed adjustments.