1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Seph, Feb 14, 2014.

  1. Pb924

    Pb924 Senior member

    Messages:
    100
    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2015
    Do you have a pic with jacket and tie? Would love to see the relationship between collar points and lapels.
     
  2. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

    Messages:
    10,840
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2013
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Has anyone gotten the polos?

    And are they only in those three colors/only standard sizing?
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2016
  3. AriG

    AriG Senior member

    Messages:
    116
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2015
    Mercer is no good. Miles was nice (and inexpensive) albeit very light, but sadly out of stock for now.

    The Canclini Broadcloth they once had was also brillant (very crisp and opaque while not too heavy), sadly this is another great fabric that wasn't ever replaced ...

    I'll try the Stanton now.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2016
  4. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

    Messages:
    2,685
    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2013
    

    What did you dislike about the Mercer?
     
  5. AriG

    AriG Senior member

    Messages:
    116
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2015
    Hard to say, since I was able to compare now with two much better fabrics (in my opinion). Just to point out the differences:

    The Mercer felt kind of stiff (bad stiff) with a slight sheen (which I absolutely can't have), where was the Miles is very soft, completely 'matte' and doesn't wrinkle easily, so looks crisp all day despite its weight. The Canclini meanwhile, while no sheen either, is very crisp and just feels higher end.

    Fwiw, I could be slighly biased though because I hadn't dialed in my fit on the Mercer yet, which makes the other two look all the better.

    Hey, for all those who can't decide, get one of both if you have your fit straight, can't ever have too many crisp, white shirts.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2016
  6. SmellBlind

    SmellBlind Active Member

    Messages:
    33
    Joined:
    May 2, 2013
    I do not, unfortunately. It would look very similar to the standard president collar with a jacket and tie, however.
     
  7. asewonder

    asewonder Active Member

    Messages:
    31
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2015
    

    I got a grey polo recently and really like it, mostly the fit and fabric as well as the stand-up collar. The cutaway is a bit aggressive and the sleeves slightly long but otherwise very solid.
     
  8. oldschoolcool

    oldschoolcool Active Member

    Messages:
    35
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2015
    Hi all,

    While visiting NYC i had the chance to stop by PC and get measured for my first custom shirt. When i recieved it there were a few fit issues that needed to be adressed (see 3 pictures below):

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    1- sleeves were slightly too short (35"). I added 0.5" to bring them up to 35.5".

    2- body was too short (31"). Increased by 2.5" to bring it up to 33.5".

    3- chest was too tight and there was some pulling under the armpit causing lines starting from the armpit and running up to the collar bone. My original measurement was 22". This was increased by 0.75" and brought up to 22.75".

    4- the midsection originally measured 19". This was a little tight so it was increased to 19.5".

    5- there was some fabric pooling behind the collar and the placket lifted between the 1st and 2nd button. I was explained that this was caused by the collar sitting too low on my neck. A 1/2" neck back was suggested to correct this issue.

    I recieved my 2nd shirt this week. The sleeve length, body length and collar issue were all fixed. However, I still believe the chest and midsection need to be corrected (see pictures 4,5 and 6). PC was gracious enough to do a final rendering of the shirt. I have been given a few suggestions by their fit specialist. However i wanted to get some feedback before i pull the trigger, since this is my last chance to get it right.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    1- chest: initially was supposed to measure 22". We increased this measurement to 22.75". While the armhole is much more comfortable, the chest feels too full. In fact the shirt loses its tailored look altogether. Another issue i would like to raise is that the chest measurement on the first shirt is flawed and actually measures 21.5".The chest measurement of the second shirt is accurate (22.75"), however the increase of 0.75" is based on the wrong measurement.

    That being said, would you suggest dropping to 22" as the shirt was originally intended to fit or 22.25"? Should the sleeve width or armpit be altered to cause less pulling under the arm?

    2- midsection: there is a bit of excess fabric in the lower back. I was thinking of nipping this by 0.25" down to 19.25" (so half way between shirt 1 and 2).

    Sorry for the long post guys and thank you in advance for your help!
     
  9. suited

    suited Senior member

    Messages:
    6,399
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2008
    Is there a comparison photo of the button down II versus the old standard button down?
     
  10. cuponoodles

    cuponoodles Senior member

    Messages:
    156
    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2011
    1.) I would drop to 22.25.

    2.) You could drop it, but keep in mind that lower back "fullness" (as you call it) often won't be alleviated by taking in the side seam. You could also add darts, which should significantly help.

    Otherwise the shirt looks good. Stop fretting.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2016
  11. oldschoolcool

    oldschoolcool Active Member

    Messages:
    35
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2015
    Thank you for the advice! And yes, maybe i pay too much attention to detail -_-
     
  12. razl

    razl Senior member

    Messages:
    9,951
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2009
    Location:
    United States of America v4.0
    Has anyone who had collar collapsing trouble in the past found new collar options that work for them?

    I had 2 shirts in early '15, one Roma Cutaway and one President Spread, and neither would stay "up" with a jacket without a tie - literally, the collar would collapse flat within a minute of normal movement. Both went to charity shortly thereafter, ouch. (Note: I did not engage PC to address either, I could/should have but just didn't have time then to give it proper attention - my fault) .

    But I'm still a PC fan and I'm excited about enough of their recently added fabrics to consider rolling the dice again but I'd feel better if someone with a similar experience could say ""I had the same thing and this [new collar/collar option/interlining option] fixed it for me!"

    Anyone?
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2016
  13. aspasp

    aspasp Senior member

    Messages:
    465
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2011
    What do you mean by collapsing collar?
     
  14. razl

    razl Senior member

    Messages:
    9,951
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2009
    Location:
    United States of America v4.0
    

    Imagine you're wearing a shirt without a tie, and especially with a jacket, you want your collar to stay "up" where the collar itself remains mostly vertical. Like this (although we all expect Brosnan's shirts to be perfect):

    [​IMG]


    Where as my collar would refuse to stay up and would fall flat, much like the pic below.

    [​IMG]

    My limited understanding of the problem is that it's as much collar as it is placket design and the construction that unifies them around the collar tab/tie space. If that sounds like I know what I'm talking about, I don't, I've just cobbled it together from other's observations...
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2016
  15. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

    Messages:
    2,685
    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2013
    I've had this issue with all my PC collars, soft or otherwise, if worn sans tie...not unmanageable, but do require occasional adjustments throughout the day
     
  16. mossrockss

    mossrockss Senior member

    Messages:
    1,608
    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2008
    



    This has nothing to do with the shirt, and isn't really helpful, but I've found totally unlined jackets help—the friction keeps the shirts from moving much in the upper chest and shoulders.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

    Messages:
    10,840
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2013
    Location:
    Los Angeles
  18. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn Senior member

    Messages:
    797
    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2014
    the collar band needs to be stiffer, i believe. I think that is a flaw in PC's designs - not a stiif enough collar band
     
  19. aspasp

    aspasp Senior member

    Messages:
    465
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2011
    Can that be fixed by ironing and starch?
     
  20. kwv07

    kwv07 Senior member

    Messages:
    271
    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2011
    Does anyone have a good fabric recommendation for a pleated front tuxedo shirt? I need to have one made for a wedding. I am thinking either Broadcloth or Royal Oxford? What is the right move?

    @ccallis
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by