Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Seph, Feb 14, 2014.

  1. ammanati

    ammanati Senior member

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    Hi guys,

    not sure if this question has been already answered somewhere but I would like to know if it is possible to modify the fusing or interlining in Proper Cloth's collars? I love their shape but would prefer something softer, i.e. no fusing or light interlining.
     


  2. kwv07

    kwv07 Senior member

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    @ccallis

    I'd love to offer a couple suggestions for sometime in the future

    1) Roma Spread in the stiff unfused variety

    2) stiff unfused cuffs

    3) stiffer ivy button down

    Just thought I'd give it a try!
     


  3. ccallis

    ccallis Senior member

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    Hey--Thanks for reaching out. We're not able to change the interlining from collar to collar on our shirts. For some collars (President Spread, President Cutaway, Roma Cutaway, Franklin Spread) we offer both medium weight fused interlining and very light unfused interlining options.



    Really appreciate the suggestions. I love where you're coming from, but I wouldn't expect these any time soon. We're in the process of reevaluating our stiff, unfused interlining at the moment. After months of review, we think that there's still room for improvement on this interlining configuration and have begun sources some new options.

    We have a ton of things in the product development pipeline, one of which is to try a few super lightweight, batiste fusible interlinings on the Ivy BD. I think this can achieve a dressy/crisp look while retaining the roll and personality of the Soft Ivy. Going for a stiffer or thicker interlining is probably not what we'd do on this collar.

    Really appreciate the suggestions, guys!

    Cheers,
    Chris
     


  4. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Hmm. Wondering if I should do my order, or wait for the new 'stiff' version after the above updates.
     


  5. ccallis

    ccallis Senior member

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    We have no timeline on interlining updates right now. Wouldn't expect it in the next 1-2 months, at least. If you like the current stiff interlining I'd go for it sooner rather than later, as it may get taken offline at some point.
     


  6. SimplyStylin

    SimplyStylin Senior member

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    For those that have made their OCBD's with PC... Do you go with the same size as your business shirts, or change it at all to make it more casual in some way?
     


  7. AriG

    AriG Senior member

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    Well I shorten the length by 2", the sleeves by half an inch and let the midsection out ever so slightly (because I wear them untucked). Of course it's a matter of preference, I assume some people like their casual shirts to be roomier in the chest and sleeves as well.
     


  8. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Meaning you won't have stiff options at all, or they'll just be done differently?
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2015


  9. Andrew Ryan

    Andrew Ryan Senior member

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    This is awesome. The only reason I don't use the Ivy BD on all my super casual shirts is that it only has enough structure to look crispy in F/W heavier casual fabrics (OC for one, of course), and just looks sloppy on lightweight broadcloths and summer shirting.

    You guys are constantly working on improving in all areas - it's really, really impressive and makes me glad to be a dedicated customer.
     


  10. ammanati

    ammanati Senior member

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    Thanks @ccallis for a response.
    Another question addressed maybe to someone who has experience with both Luxire and Proper Cloth. How would you compare/describe the Milano II and Roma Spread collar thickness? Is it really very stiff?
     


  11. Andrew Ryan

    Andrew Ryan Senior member

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    In my opinion the Milano II and Roma Spread (as well as any of their standard stiff fused interlined collars) are just the right weight. Luxire's is, in my opinion, too stiff by default. I use both these collars and they stand up quite well under a jacket (see previous picture a page back for the Roma Spread) without a tie, and of course do just fine with ties to be dressy. Also, FWIW, as I've previously mentioned, these are the only two collars (RS and MII) that stand up the way I like (read: tall and symmetrically), but that's due to the proportions and angles and et cetera, not the thickness of the collar per se, which of course factors in but again, is the same (and just right) on all similarly constructed collars they offer. To illustrate how both stand up without a tie (which seems to me the test of whether it's stiff enough or not), here's a photo of both collars worn open - Milano II on left with top button lowered 1/2", Roma Spread on right with standard top button placement.

    [​IMG]

    With Luxire, their standard fused interlinings are so thick that without a tie even a properly proportioned and angled etc collar will just about fly away under a jacket unless it's a button-down. Case in point: I once had them duplicate exactly a Milano II collar (mailed in the shirt and everything) to see if I could expand my fabric options by using both companies, and was sorely disappointed with the useless shirt that came in, as the lining was so thick it flew away no matter how you ironed it. Then again, this may not be an issue if you're talking tie-wear... in which case, I'm not sure the 'stiffness level', so long as it's fused, matters much. But I may be misunderstanding your question.
     


  12. ccallis

    ccallis Senior member

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    @venividivicibj I need to get my next round of prototyping back before I can give you a good answer. I'd definitely like to have both "standard" and "thick/stiff" interlinings available for some collar options, but there's a chance there may be a period where stiff is not available. Sort of depends how much product development our factory can comfortably handle at one time.

    @Andrew Ryan Really appreciate the kind words. Think we have a really great product, but there are still so many places to push forward. Will keep this thread posted down the line when we make consider a lightly fused Ivy BD for a more dressy/professional look.
     


  13. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Okay, thank you!

    Also, regarding the Ivy BD. Maybe a thick interlining or fused collarband, but the collar itself is only lightly lined (so it stands,but still has a roll)
     


  14. Valfunde

    Valfunde Well-Known Member

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    Sooo sea island cotton, eh? I have plenty of white shirts but I'm pretty damn tempted to get on this one since it looks and sounds good.
     


  15. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    out of my league
     


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