Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Seph, Feb 14, 2014.

  1. Voight-Kampff

    Voight-Kampff Member

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    Thanks for the feedback guys!

    Yes I did use body measures. I knew this was prone to errors so I also did a "smart size" at the same time as a point of reference. I was surprised that the smart size suggested measures even larger ( a 20'' midsection!) than the output from my own measures.

    I went through my other shirts (both tighter and looser) and took measures to determine which was "best". I had gone for a 19.25'' midsection but when I measured it, the shirt was at 19.75'' even though I had washed it 4 times to account for shrinkage. Based on my other shirts, an 18.75'' should be just right, slim without being overly tight.

    And yeah the collar is too large. Again comparing with other shirts, it's still 0.75'' too large even after shrinkage. I didn't have the collar stays in the picture because I had just ironed the shirt and I was certain of wanting to tighten the collar.

    My advice to anyone jumping in would be not to trust the smart sizes, or even your own body measures since those aren't the actual measures that go into making the shirt. Measuring your own shirts and seeing what works best will probably give you the best results.
     


  2. yoshiwaan

    yoshiwaan Well-Known Member

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    Hi,

    I'd like a turn at the expert opinions offered on dialing in the fit for my shirt as well, if nobody minds!

    I initially started with body measurements then compared the output against a shirt I know fitted well except for the sleeve width and adjusted as needed. I was fairly aggressive in making measurements smaller as I find it difficult to buy shirts that don't billow at the back. I've ended up with a shirt that is unsurprisingly a little small but within reason to make a few adjustments to get it right.

    The main issues I have are the shoulders are just too wide, the armhole is far too small and the sleeves are a little tight around the bicep and upper forearm, but perfect around the wrist.

    The reason I'm seeking advice is that I'm not sure if the way to go about fixing this is to opt for a different cut type (Change from extra slim + tailored arm holes to slim + regular arm holes) or to alter measurements.

    So, without further ado:


    [​IMG]

    There's bunching around the armpit as the arm hole is small under the armpit and the shoulder a little wide

    [​IMG]
    Happy with the stomach and back area
    [​IMG]
    There's sections of bunching near each shoulder. I think having larger arm holes would help this, but would an inch off of the yoke measurement be what I need to decrease the shoulder width?
    I specified squared shoulders, which I think is correct

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    The chest pulls a little if I pull my shoulders back. Would I add a half inch/full inch to the chest measurement or will moving to a slim fit (from extra slim) sort this?
    [​IMG]
    Tightness around the elbow and bicep. Once again is this a function of the extra slim or do I need a larger sleeve width measurement?
    You can see the wide shoulder here too, which creates little humps if I raise my arms.

    I'm really trying to avoid going too far the other way, or I might as well get OTR. From what can see I think I just want a little more allowance in the chest and arm, shorten the shoulder and drop the lowest point of the arm hole size (top and front is fine), but someone will no doubt know better than me, I'm no expert.
     


  3. novaeagle

    novaeagle Senior member

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    That sounds about right. Your shirt being too tight in the chest is the main concern with the fit. It's throwing everything else off.

    Note that this will cause more fabric in the midsection as well (it's all one piece, after all), but this should produce a nicer draping effect (as in, it will no longer be skin-tight like it is now but will "drape" across your midsection.

    I have a similar build to you but narrower shoulders. I prefer slightly more room in the midsection, though, because I work a deskjob and having it that slim is uncomfortable and unpractical. However, to each their own.

    For reference, I measure both the chest and the midsection on my shirts to be about 4" bigger than actual for a tailored but not overly slim look.
     


  4. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yoshiwan.

    the collar and the cuffs look fine.
    of course the collar is unbuttoned, and i will assume that the shirt is unwashed?

    i can not give you exact measurements.
    but
    yoke is too wide
    chest is too tight.
    a larger chest should automatically drop the armhole.
    should also give you a wider sleeve which you need.
    if the shirt has not been washed, then the sleeves are too short.


    the back is scary.
    you have square shoulders with sway posture
    the biased split yoke only enhances the hollow between your blades

    the taper in the back from chest to waist accentuates your slimness.
    better off with a wider waist measurement and add darts

    good luck
     


  5. yoshiwaan

    yoshiwaan Well-Known Member

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    The shirt has been washed, I didn't see much point evaluating it without washing it. The collar fits well when buttoned and I think the sleeves are pretty much bang on for length after the washing.

    Quote:
    I'm not sure I quite understand this. Is it a bad thing that it accentuates my slimness? I'm aiming for fairly close fitting with no back billowing.
    So your recommendation is to go for a wider fit around the waist and have darts put in? I just figured I could avoid having to do alterations if it's made from custom measurements.
    Are you thinking that the taper is causing some of the folders around the shoulder blades? Wouldn't a smaller yolk and larger armholes eliminate this?
     


  6. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Any chance for a return of the Albini White Chambray?
     


  7. Andrew Ryan

    Andrew Ryan Senior member

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    Anyone here tried the Roma Spread w/out tie and under a jacket? The only collar I've found to stand up to my liking (which I mentioned a bit earlier) under a jacket without a tie is the Milano II, which I love, but can be a little much for certain situations. I know some of you really enjoy the Roma Spread with ties and it looks like it has long enough points to stand up well, so I'm curious; might be a great dual purpose collar...
     


  8. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Only thing is, if you take off the jacket, how does the Roma spread look? Idk if it would look good sans tie and jacket
     


  9. Andrew Ryan

    Andrew Ryan Senior member

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    True enough, but the same can be said for any non-button down collar. Some don't mind this look without a jacket, but I'm of the camp that it looks horrible; that said, and partially due to such - I pretty much never remove my jacket during the work day, and if I am for some reason going sans jacket (weekend, etc) it's with a button down collar. But I dislike button-down collars with jackets (just preference).
     


  10. Darkside

    Darkside Senior member

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    My first iteration of a PC shirt was the Soft Roma Cutaway. It had the sprezzy Italian look when unbuttoned and without a jacket, but I thought it was just too soft to look clean with a tie.

    I updated the measurements and reordered the shirt with a Stiff Roma Cutaway.

    I also don't really give a crap about conventions or rules when it comes to casual wear. It more depends on what looks good on the individual.
     


  11. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Yeah, I think I'll try these two also for my next two orders
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2015


  12. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    I might try it too. I just ordered another Roma spread on Tuesday....I love that collar.
     


  13. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    I think I would like it, but I go most of the time with just a shirt, or shirt and jacket (meaning no tie) that I think the cutaway would be more versatile, as the Roma spread doesn't look good on its own.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2015


  14. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    How much shrinkage should I expect I the sleeves (length wise, not sleeve tightness)
     


  15. Andrew Ryan

    Andrew Ryan Senior member

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    FWIW, got a Roma Spread in and here it is sans tie (standard top button placement). Stands up very well. It is just a tad top heavy, but I like it. That said, I have a lot of Milano II's that I use strictly for tie-less wear, and might stick to those for dedicated sans tie situations - but the Roma Spread looks fantastic with a tie and pretty good without (with a jacket, of course) so it might become my most versatile dual purpose collar choice.

    [​IMG]
     


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