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Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Seph, Feb 14, 2014.

  1. beyondmars2020

    beyondmars2020 Senior member

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    Hi all,

    I just ordered my first MTM shirt from Proper Cloth.

    Would love to hear comments regarding fit and necessary alterations and/or measurement changes for my next shirt.

    It seems that the shoulders might be too wide and there is too much fabric in the underarm area. Would you agree, and how to fix?

    Thx,
    Larry

    ps. Please accept my apologies for the poor photos.


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    Last edited: Jul 22, 2015


  2. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Hey beyondmars, I moved your post over here so @ccallis can have a look at it. He knows his system and is very good at giving adjustment help.
     


  3. ccallis

    ccallis Senior member

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    @beyondmars2020 It'll depend a bit on how slim of a fit you're going for, but I'd suggest the following:

    Shoulders/Yoke: -.75"
    Chest: -.75"
    Arm Width: -.5"
    Cuff: consider -.25"
    Mid--Draping nicely now, could bring in .25" or .5" no problem if you'd like a slimmer fit but up to you.

    Sleeve/Body Length--It looks like this shirt is fresh out of the box, so it's probably best to launder it to see how you feel a bit about the fit. It looks like you may want to bring sleeve length up slightly (.5") and lengthen the shirt out (if you're wearing it tucked in) by 1". Collar side will also shrink down, so always good to see after a wash.
     


  4. ccallis

    ccallis Senior member

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    Can't go wrong with a light blue that has a bit of color variation. Mercer Light Blue Pinpoint (PCF836), Bowery Blue Pinpoint (PCF329) or Canclini Light Blue End on End (PCF470) are great for this.


    Just got the blue striped seersucker and plaid back in stock, but no new styles until new spring. Will have some very unique cotton/linen seersucker for SS '16...and some tonal solid seersucker fabrics, too.


    I like our $85 Heavy Oxford for this. PCF570 is ever-so-slightly lighter in color than PCF617. For something that's more comfortable in warmer weather, the Thomas Mason Light Blue Oxford is great. Not as traditional and chunky, but a great fabric nonetheless.
     


  5. SimplyStylin

    SimplyStylin Senior member

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    Hi all,

    Any Proper Cloth fabric favorites for wearing with jeans?

    OCBD's with the heavy oxford maybe as suggested? Linen for the summer?

    I've been using PC for all of my dress shirts for the past year or more. I have 8-10 at the moment, and am looking to expand the selection with a few more options that lean toward casual / business casual.

    Also, are most going with the Soft Ivy BD collar on these types of shirts?

    Thanks!
     


  6. Darkside

    Darkside Senior member

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    This is also an issue I am interested in. I'm fairly certain I'm going with Oxford cloth pink and blue stripes for my next two.

    But with a spread collar, because spread collars look great with jackets and ties, and I have no issue wearing spread collar shirts with jeans. Something like the Roma Cutaway.

    The OCSC will prosper.
     


  7. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    I'm going to be doing some cotton-linen with soft ivy collar for jean usage. Just need to get fit down first.
     


  8. lupin23rd

    lupin23rd Well-Known Member

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    Was hoping to get some feedback on my Proper Cloth shirt from some of the fine folks on this thread. Feels like I'm pretty close to where I want it to be, but it doesn't quite look clean around the underarm / where the arm connects to the torso, and wondering if there's a way to improve on that area a bit.

    Not quite sure what the issue would be, if the arm is too tight (doesn't feel it), maybe too big (doubt it), or something to do with the shoulder or chest? Or maybe it's simply a side effect of not being as skinny as I'd like to think I am? :)

    Also not sure if it's normal to see those "spiral" creases on the upper arm, but maybe just overthinking that.

    Hopefully these pics are useful, if not can provide some better ones. Thanks in advance!

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    Have to say I love this fabric - some of the samples on the site don't do the color justice as it appears faded, but it's a solid summer green.
     


  9. novaeagle

    novaeagle Senior member

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    I think we'd need some better pictures from further away... It's hard to tell because you can't see the whole shirt in any of those shots.
     


  10. Andrew Ryan

    Andrew Ryan Senior member

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    Anyone have any experience with their convertible cuff option? I wear FC mostly but instead of keeping BC shirts on hand for those occasions that require it, I'm intrigued by the concept, but there's not a lot of explanation of how it works/looks on the website.

    @ccallis - when folded for links, is it actually a single cuff rather than a double/french? any chance we could get some pics of one in both configurations? If I dig it, I'm thinking of ordering all my future shirts that way... and I'm about to stock up for F/W so it'd be nice to know before I pull any triggers.

    Thanks!
     


  11. lupin23rd

    lupin23rd Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the feedback - had thought a closer look might be better but appears I was wrong :)

    Here are some (hopefully) better shots!

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  12. novaeagle

    novaeagle Senior member

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    It looks like it fits good in the body, honestly. That's how I like mine to fit, at least. Slim but not unreasonably so.

    The arms are what I think causes the issue. Are you using tailored armpit? Definitely need to shorten the arm slightly, also maybe shrink the cuff although that's somewhat personal preference. You may find it necessary to slim the entire arm (bicep measurement) as well.

    If you're using tailored arm, I'd recommend slimming the arm and switching to full armpit. You have sloping shoulders so a lower armhole might be beneficial. I'll let someone else comment though.

    Also check and make sure your chest isn't too tight.
     


  13. AriG

    AriG Senior member

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    Full armpit causes a higher armhole by the way, because the sleeve is attached at a wider angle. Also, it's gonna cause even more creases along the front when arms are down. Honestly, I think it's a good fit and arm creases are pretty much always there, one way or another. I agree you can shorten sleeves (I assume you already laundered the shirt) by about 0.5", never go too short though. Unless you wear a jacket, cuff measurement is more critical (wrist size +1.75").

    Don't think there is a strong slope in the shoulder, otherwise we'd see more wrinkles from the neck outward (unless it's already incorporated). I wouldn't slim the arm, I suspect it might make you uncomfortable in the pits and so on when sitting and moving. It looks right the way it is in my opinion.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2015


  14. razl

    razl Senior member

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    Can someone who has tried the new "stiff collar" option confirm whether it prevents collar collapse? I have gotten 2 PC shirts - one with a Roma and one with a Presidential - and both suffer from the collar collapsing to full flat under a jacket almost immediately when wearing.

    I should note that one shirt has the original buttoning height while the second has the lower option, but both behave the same. Also, other shirts - Barba, Maz, Borrelli, etc. - don't exhibit this behavior when worn with the same jackets.

    Honestly, it's what has stopped me dead in my tracks from buying any more. And the two that I do have are have seen rotation drop to null because of it.

    Not trying to be overly critical, I'm willing to accept that maybe the PC construction just doesn't work for me; but I'm hoping that's not the case and willing to try again if I get some hope that it's worth rolling the dice.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2015


  15. novaeagle

    novaeagle Senior member

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    Do you normally wear the fused? Just curious about your collar collapse issue
     


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