Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Seph, Feb 14, 2014.

  1. macjedi

    macjedi Senior member

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    Here's the white chambray - stiff president spread with a tie … I think the second one might be the Roma, can't tell and don't remember which one I wore that night.

    ^ Edit: yeah, the second pic is the Roma.


    It's the stiff one.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2015
  2. AriG

    AriG Senior member

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    Looks pretty neat on those pictures, I might just give it a spin on the next order. It'll definitely be wearable, right ...
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2015
  3. macjedi

    macjedi Senior member

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    IMO, it's a great collar. I haven't a problem with the fused collars, I like them as well. I've been less happy with the soft president spread, but it could just be the fabric … the striped cotton-linen is so soft and light the collar had no structure. It would collapse and wrinkle around the neck … and the points would get tweaked when wearing a jacket. I think a sturdier fabric would be better for it.
     
  4. AriG

    AriG Senior member

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    I can see that. I like the soft collars on my casual shirts, but those I want to be puckered, and I don't generally team them with jackets. As for the fused collars, 9 out of 10 times there is no real problem, I just think they're not as firm or crisp as they could be (i.e. like others I've seen/worn). But it's also highly dependent on fabric, as you say. It is true that teamed with certain fabrics they will feel/look much better than with others. Overall, I'm still very ok with them.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2015
  5. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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  6. AriG

    AriG Senior member

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    Just to clear things up, so one misunderstands me, it's just something that I noticed once or twice and once a shirt came with a slight pucker near the collar crease that steam/water/pressing can't fully get rid of (but it's minor, I doubt anyone would ever notice). Most times, the collars are absolutely fine (although not great and I guess PC knows it as CC has said they are developing new fused interlining options). That's why I was looking for opinions on the stiff (even though I prefer the franklin spread for my dress shirts, so no option there).

    I've been laundering all my shirts at 85F for years, it's not that.
     
  7. CraigM

    CraigM New Member

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    Hello fellow Style enthusiasts I need your help picking out a good color shirt from Propercloth that would go with this Ralph Lauren Sport Coat and Navy Blue Chinos. Would like to stay in the low to mid price range any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Any more seersucker fabrics coming in?

    Would also be interested in seeing the Albini chambray selections increased
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2015
  9. AriG

    AriG Senior member

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    Got a new shipment recently, second horizon stripe and I don't think I'm done, excellent casual throw-on.

    Also, I got a Canclini white Broadcloth with button moved up 1 inch, and it's amazing. The measurements called for the 8 buttons to be moved closer together, so it wears very clean. Much better feeling broadcloth than the Mercer 100s (vs. the Canclini's 90s), so this will definitely be a staple white fabric for me at a great value. Too bad they don't offer a light blue broadcloth option in that range (I am not a huge fan of the icey blue color of the mercer/greenwhich).
     
  10. Pb924

    Pb924 Senior member

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    Looking to purchase an OCBD. Any recommendations on fabric? looking for light blue
     
  11. blocky

    blocky Member

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    So I've washed and worn and washed the shirt, and am now trying to decide how I like the measurements. I am also wondering if it's worth having this one altered. If I were to order another shirt today I would probably make these alterations:

    chest .25" or .5" larger
    sleeve .5" smaller
    forearm .25" smaller
    bicep .5" smaller
    waist .5" smaller
    shoulder yoke .75" or 1" smaller on each side

    These measurements are made up based on how much loose material there is at each of those respective points, so at my bicep I can grab at least .5" of material (which means it's actually 1" too big but obviously I don't want it skin tight)

    There is also several inches of material in the small of my back that disappears by the time it gets around to the sides, so I was wondering if this is something that pleats can take care of.

    Despite all these corrections it fits better than almost all my other shirts. Given these numbers, is it worth having it altered? If it matters, this is a formal dress shirt but the next few I'll be ordering are likely more casual, to be worn without a tie and possibly even untucked.
     
  12. AriG

    AriG Senior member

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    sleeve/forearm/bicep

    that's one measurement, you can only further modify the fit with pleats. And yeah, if you really feel all that should be altered, that's quite a bit sth. It's probably not gonna be right the next time, so you better first try again (once or multiple times) for free. But keep in mind, just because you can grab a certain amount of material at a given point, doesn't mean that should be gone (maybe not even half of it). Just try it, you'll feel terribly uncomfortable once you can "pinch" no more excess. You might be right on, but it's hard to judge without a visual.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2015
  13. blocky

    blocky Member

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    I apologize for the blurry cell phone pics in a dirty bathroom mirror. Don't have access to a real camera right now, unfortunately. http://imgur.com/a/KuAKR

    Is it wrong if I want the shoulders to fit tighter than the example image here? http://propercloth.com/reference/how-the-shoulders-yoke-should-fit/

    Also regarding pleats, I think I was thinking of darts. Pleats would allow a taper to the arm, while darts would allow a taper in the back (without affecting the chest)?

    Thanks for the help
     
  14. AriG

    AriG Senior member

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    Ok, pleats allow for a wider forearm, you can choose single or double (standard is single which is what you have right now?). Darts are for slimming down the back, however as of right now, PC does not offer the option yet (I think they are on it though).

    - Your shoulders don't look too bad, your suggested 1" each side is way too much. You can try narrowing the yoke by 0.25" or 0.5" (in total) but I'm not even sure it's necessary. You want the seam to line up with your acromion bone. You don't want it too snug around the back because consider what happens when you lean forward or sit at a desk. The fabric will be very tense between your shoulder blades.
    - You probably feel they are wider than they are because your sleeves are indeed too wide, your -0.5" is probably a good idea. Also, your cuffs need to come down, try wrist circumference +1.5", the sleeve should stop quite a bit higher up your forearm and not taper out at the cuff like it does now. You can take away some length also, but rather go slightly too long than too short (in a dress shirt that is).
    - chest and waist is kind of hard to judge, but darts would probably be good for you considering the excess fabric in the back. Your idea to take in the waist and loosen up the chest a bit if it feels too tight seems ok.

    Considering all these variables, I'd definitely try a free remake (and they will do more if it still doesn't fit). It would be foolish to order a whole new paid batch without having a proper fit locked in.

    That's just my take. I hope this helped to get you started on that next shirt.

    Here's my first fit to give you an idea: http://i.imgur.com/e8CHa2T.jpg
    It was almost perfect for me, but I had quite some experience with shirts beforehand. What I changed was cuff -0.25", sleeve +0.25", midsection +0.25", length +0.5". And that's pretty much where I'm at right now. For untucked shirts I go sleeve -0.25" and length -2" from my dress shirt profile.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2015
  15. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

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    Can anybody provide pics of the Milano II and the Roma (either soft of regular) cutaway?

    I know this is going to sound silly, but how soft is the soft Roma? Further, what exactly does this mean?
     

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