Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

[macjedi]



It looks smooth enough to dress it up? I sometimes get weird bumps in the fused collars of my dress shirts and that's not good (last one came with one and it's not going out with steam/water/iron). Also, the broadcloth collars sort of show the stay pocket once you press the collar crisp, again not so nice. The thing I don't like is that I feel neither the soft nor (obv) the fused placket/cuffs really go with it ... I see you have a french front, which kind of works around this and then going with the soft cuff is probably fine on a casual shirt, but for formal occasions I would like a stiffer cuff.

Here's the white chambray - stiff president spread with a tie … I think the second one might be the Roma, can't tell and don't remember which one I wore that night.

^ Edit: yeah, the second pic is the Roma.

Couple of pics from a recent trip… New KW MTM.

Suit: Kent Wang MTM CMT - W.Bill Linen.
Socks: Kent Wang Cream Linen
PS: Kent Wang White Linen
Shirt: Proper Cloth White Albini Chambray
Tie: Drakes Olive Bold Stripe - ASW

Suit: Kent Wang MTM CMT - W.Bill Linen.
Socks: Kent Wang White Linen
PS: Vanda Muted Cream Chrysanthemums
Shirt: Proper Cloth White Albini Chambray
Tie: Vanda Green-White Striped 'Grenadine'

Thats the normal presidential spread? or the stiff

It's the stiff one.

 

[AriG]

Looks pretty neat on those pictures, I might just give it a spin on the next order. It'll definitely be wearable, right ...

 

[macjedi]



Looks pretty neat on those pictures, I might just give it a spin on the next order. It'll definitely be wearable, right ...

IMO, it's a great collar. I haven't a problem with the fused collars, I like them as well. I've been less happy with the soft president spread, but it could just be the fabric … the striped cotton-linen is so soft and light the collar had no structure. It would collapse and wrinkle around the neck … and the points would get tweaked when wearing a jacket. I think a sturdier fabric would be better for it.

 

[AriG]

I can see that. I like the soft collars on my casual shirts, but those I want to be puckered, and I don't generally team them with jackets. As for the fused collars, 9 out of 10 times there is no real problem, I just think they're not as firm or crisp as they could be (i.e. like others I've seen/worn). But it's also highly dependent on fabric, as you say. It is true that teamed with certain fabrics they will feel/look much better than with others. Overall, I'm still very ok with them.

 

[Academic2]

Quote:

I'm speaking of PC shirts exclusively here, of course. It's not terrible by any means, just sometimes noticeable (to me, probably no one else). Kinda defeats the purpose.

Assuming you've been following the care instructions (and not, for example, washing the shirt in hot water) this shouldn't happen. I'd request a replacement.

Out of curiosity, roughly how many times did you wash the shirt before the puckering appeared?

Cheers,

Ac

 

[AriG]

Just to clear things up, so one misunderstands me, it's just something that I noticed once or twice and once a shirt came with a slight pucker near the collar crease that steam/water/pressing can't fully get rid of (but it's minor, I doubt anyone would ever notice). Most times, the collars are absolutely fine (although not great and I guess PC knows it as CC has said they are developing new fused interlining options). That's why I was looking for opinions on the stiff (even though I prefer the franklin spread for my dress shirts, so no option there).

I've been laundering all my shirts at 85F for years, it's not that.

 

[CraigM]

Hello fellow Style enthusiasts I need your help picking out a good color shirt from Propercloth that would go with this Ralph Lauren Sport Coat and Navy Blue Chinos. Would like to stay in the low to mid price range any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[venividivicibj]

Any more seersucker fabrics coming in?

Would also be interested in seeing the Albini chambray selections increased

 

[AriG]

Got a new shipment recently, second horizon stripe and I don't think I'm done, excellent casual throw-on.

Also, I got a Canclini white Broadcloth with button moved up 1 inch, and it's amazing. The measurements called for the 8 buttons to be moved closer together, so it wears very clean. Much better feeling broadcloth than the Mercer 100s (vs. the Canclini's 90s), so this will definitely be a staple white fabric for me at a great value. Too bad they don't offer a light blue broadcloth option in that range (I am not a huge fan of the icey blue color of the mercer/greenwhich).

 

[Pb924]

Looking to purchase an OCBD. Any recommendations on fabric? looking for light blue

 

[blocky]

So I've washed and worn and washed the shirt, and am now trying to decide how I like the measurements. I am also wondering if it's worth having this one altered. If I were to order another shirt today I would probably make these alterations:

chest .25" or .5" larger
sleeve .5" smaller
forearm .25" smaller
bicep .5" smaller
waist .5" smaller
shoulder yoke .75" or 1" smaller on each side

These measurements are made up based on how much loose material there is at each of those respective points, so at my bicep I can grab at least .5" of material (which means it's actually 1" too big but obviously I don't want it skin tight)

There is also several inches of material in the small of my back that disappears by the time it gets around to the sides, so I was wondering if this is something that pleats can take care of.

Despite all these corrections it fits better than almost all my other shirts. Given these numbers, is it worth having it altered? If it matters, this is a formal dress shirt but the next few I'll be ordering are likely more casual, to be worn without a tie and possibly even untucked.

 

[AriG]

sleeve/forearm/bicep

that's one measurement, you can only further modify the fit with pleats. And yeah, if you really feel all that should be altered, that's quite a bit sth. It's probably not gonna be right the next time, so you better first try again (once or multiple times) for free. But keep in mind, just because you can grab a certain amount of material at a given point, doesn't mean that should be gone (maybe not even half of it). Just try it, you'll feel terribly uncomfortable once you can "pinch" no more excess. You might be right on, but it's hard to judge without a visual.

 

[blocky]

sleeve/forearm/bicep

that's one measurement, you can only further modify the fit with pleats. And yeah, if you really feel all that should be altered, that's quite a bit sth. It's probably not gonna be right the next time, so you better first try again (once or multiple times) for free. But keep in mind, just because you can grab a certain amount of material at a given point, doesn't mean that should be gone (maybe not even half of it). Just try it, you'll feel terribly uncomfortable once you can "pinch" no more excess. You might be right on, but it's hard to judge without a visual.

I apologize for the blurry cell phone pics in a dirty bathroom mirror. Don't have access to a real camera right now, unfortunately. http://imgur.com/a/KuAKR

Is it wrong if I want the shoulders to fit tighter than the example image here? http://propercloth.com/reference/how-the-shoulders-yoke-should-fit/

Also regarding pleats, I think I was thinking of darts. Pleats would allow a taper to the arm, while darts would allow a taper in the back (without affecting the chest)?

Thanks for the help

 

[AriG]

Ok, pleats allow for a wider forearm, you can choose single or double (standard is single which is what you have right now?). Darts are for slimming down the back, however as of right now, PC does not offer the option yet (I think they are on it though).

- Your shoulders don't look too bad, your suggested 1" each side is way too much. You can try narrowing the yoke by 0.25" or 0.5" (in total) but I'm not even sure it's necessary. You want the seam to line up with your acromion bone. You don't want it too snug around the back because consider what happens when you lean forward or sit at a desk. The fabric will be very tense between your shoulder blades.
- You probably feel they are wider than they are because your sleeves are indeed too wide, your -0.5" is probably a good idea. Also, your cuffs need to come down, try wrist circumference +1.5", the sleeve should stop quite a bit higher up your forearm and not taper out at the cuff like it does now. You can take away some length also, but rather go slightly too long than too short (in a dress shirt that is).
- chest and waist is kind of hard to judge, but darts would probably be good for you considering the excess fabric in the back. Your idea to take in the waist and loosen up the chest a bit if it feels too tight seems ok.

Considering all these variables, I'd definitely try a free remake (and they will do more if it still doesn't fit). It would be foolish to order a whole new paid batch without having a proper fit locked in.

That's just my take. I hope this helped to get you started on that next shirt.

Here's my first fit to give you an idea: http://i.imgur.com/e8CHa2T.jpg
It was almost perfect for me, but I had quite some experience with shirts beforehand. What I changed was cuff -0.25", sleeve +0.25", midsection +0.25", length +0.5". And that's pretty much where I'm at right now. For untucked shirts I go sleeve -0.25" and length -2" from my dress shirt profile.

 

[ericgereghty]

Can anybody provide pics of the Milano II and the Roma (either soft of regular) cutaway?

I know this is going to sound silly, but how soft is the soft Roma? Further, what exactly does this mean?