Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

[Murlsquirl]

What's the consensus on concave/convexe shaped shirt collars regarding their formalness?

EDIT* I agree my question doesn't seems very clear as I'm unaware if there's a proper nomenclature for this - a shirt collar that rounds down and out torward the shoulders (like @Murlsquirl 's Milano II) vs. a shirt collar that starts torward the shoulders then curves downward (like @Sotiris ' Roma Spread).

I got you...look at the closeup I just added. I don't think it makes a difference, formality wise. Also, I don't wear collar stays and they does change the shape a bit.

EDIT: I don't think there is a formality difference between the Roma and the Milano II. However, there is of course a difference with other collars...i.e., cutaway.

 

[ShawnBC]

I got you...look at the closeup I just added. I don't think it makes a difference, formality wise. Also, I don't wear collar stays and they does change the shape a bit.

Then I guess what makes the Milano II non-conservative business dress compatible is regarding it's dimensions, not it's shape, right?

 

[europrep]

Can you get longer cuffs? Received my first shirt and my only nitpick is the cuff length seems a bit short.

 

[Murlsquirl]



Then I guess what makes the Milano II non-conservative business dress compatible is regarding it's dimensions, not it's shape, right?

I would imagine that's why some people think it is, but I disagree.

 

[sebastian mcfox]

Murl's looks conservative business dress appropriate to me, but he's also a tall dude

 

[ShawnBC]

The Milano II is not conservative business dress inappropriate. This is from St. Paddy's day:

I would imagine that's why some people think it is, but I disagree.

I'm sorry, I read you wrong. I thought you meant the Milano II was not conservative business dress appropriate. Now it makes sense. Good thing, since I love the dimension of the Milano II.

It's settled, then!

 

[Andrew Ryan]

Gent's, looking for a little advice in collar selection..
The photos of the ivy look huge but I cant really find any good action shots. I expect to wear a sport coat rarely.... a tie never...and I have spread collar shirts for ties if needed. Just wondering if anyone was in the same boat and what did you end up with? Should I just go with the default president spread and call it a day?

The Soft Ivy is not at all large in person, really, the roll is just large (a good thing if you're into that). If you're not wearing a sportcoat, I suggest sticking with the regular (non-Colorado) button-down collar, or going with the Soft Ivy. Be aware the Ivy is going to take some pressing (band and leaf separately) to not look too casual; if that's a concern, again, stick with the regular button down.

Spread collars (assuming the right proportions and everything else, ad nauseam) can look very, very good with a sportcoat and no tie (as can some cutaways, if that's your thing) but with no jacket at all, you should really stick with a button down collar - this isn't 'Proper Cloth' specific, I'm just giving general advice, or at least my two cents worth of it. Remember, you want the collar to frame your face, not just jut out awkwardly or hang limp. I don't have any experience with the new 'stiff' collars (although they sound pretty impressive w/r/t what's gone into making them) and no interest as I wear a jacket 99.9% of the time, but if I understand the concept correctly, they're supposed to stand upright all on their own... which seems a little odd to me, to be honest, but again, I've never worn one, never seen a picture, and so on. But they might be worth investigating if you're button-down collar opposed and don't wear a jacket.

 

[sebastian mcfox]

While we're on collars, any advice for a casual linen shirt that will be worn untucked?

 

[Andrew Ryan]

While we're on collars, any advice for a casual linen shirt that will be worn untucked?

Linen + untucked = about as casual as you can get, so anything unfused (any of the Soft collars, plenty to choose from) or lightly fused (standard BD collar). Assuming you're wearing it without a jacket (of course), my previous two cents applies as well re: button downs. Again though, that's just that - my two cents.

 

[bigsink]



The Soft Ivy is not at all large in person, really, the roll is just large (a good thing if you're into that). If you're not wearing a sportcoat, I suggest sticking with the regular (non-Colorado) button-down collar, or going with the Soft Ivy. Be aware the Ivy is going to take some pressing (band and leaf separately) to not look too casual; if that's a concern, again, stick with the regular button down. 

Spread collars (assuming the right proportions and everything else, ad nauseam) can look very, very good with a sportcoat and no tie (as can some cutaways, if that's your thing) but with no jacket at all, you should really stick with a button down collar - this isn't 'Proper Cloth' specific, I'm just giving general advice, or at least my two cents worth of it. Remember, you want the collar to frame your face, not just jut out awkwardly or hang limp. I don't have any experience with the new 'stiff' collars (although they sound pretty impressive w/r/t what's gone into making them) and no interest as I wear a jacket 99.9% of the time, but if I understand the concept correctly, they're supposed to stand upright all on their own... which seems a little odd to me, to be honest, but again, I've never worn one, never seen a picture, and so on. But they might be worth investigating if you're button-down collar opposed and don't wear a jacket. 

This is great advice, thank you. I dryclean all of my shirts, im not sure if that affects the decision of Ivy. Currently my spread collars (not propercloth) sit up on their own like wings. Its really bizzare. I havent heard of the stuff collars, but my two casual shirts were un-fused colorodo bd. Still torn on which collar to use for work...but i'll get there. Thank you!

 

[Murlsquirl]



Murl's looks conservative business dress appropriate to me, but he's also a tall dude

True

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

Height isn't as important as shoulder width I think, since that's whats going to make the collar look massive on smaller guys.

 

[sebastian mcfox]

Good point

Although I don't think I have particularly broad shoulders (18") but I still think the president spread looks too small

 

[Murlsquirl]



Height isn't as important as shoulder width I think, since that's whats going to make the collar look massive on smaller guys.

True.

 

[bluescholar]

Does anyone know of a brand of metal collar stays that fit the Propercloth collars well? Mainly interested in finding brass or other metal collar stays for the following collars: Roma Cutaway, Roma Spread, English Spread, President Spread.

Other than concern about going through airport security I think brass metal collar stays are a nice detail. Charles Tyrwhitt includes them for free. Hall and Madden does as well but their stays are not brass and seem kind of rough. It's unfortunate that Propercloth being so great in so many ways doesn't include metal stays for at least their most popular collars. I realize it might not be realistic to offer them for all of their collars since they have so many different collar options but it'd be nice if it was available for some. Maybe I'm too rough with my clothes but my plastic collar stays eventually get bent out of shape. I do take them out before washing or having my shirts laundered though.

Also hoping they offer some silk-cotton blend fabrics. Have a shirt from another brand that is 89% cotton and 11% silk and it has an amazing hand feel.