Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Seph, Feb 14, 2014.

  1. novaeagle

    novaeagle Senior member

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    That is a beautiful collar, imo. It looks soft - is it?
     


  2. Sotiris

    Sotiris Senior member

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    Yes, definitely my favorite collar now (along with sofy ivy BD). The points seem fairly soft, with the neckband feeling a bit stiffer. Still have to try this collar without a tie.
     


  3. novaeagle

    novaeagle Senior member

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    I apologize, I was unclear - is that the soft roma, or the fused one? Also, the "stiff" roma is somewhat confusing to me, as it's unfused?
     


  4. Sotiris

    Sotiris Senior member

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    Ah sorry. This is the new Roma Spread. And you're right, I just checked the site and the description does say "stiff fused interling".

    I do also have some Roma cutaway collars, which are also described as stiff fused interling, and they feel similar. But it's a bit aggressive a spread and I prefer the new Roma Spread as pictured about.

    I also checked my order history and I do have one Soft Roma cutaway collar, but that's a linen blend which I haven't worn since last September so I can't recall how much softer/better it feels.

    I'm sticking with Roma Spread for future orders. Hope this helps.
     


  5. ccallis

    ccallis Senior member

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    Hi--we actually use two slightly different weights in the collar leaf and collar band to get the perfect compliment of functionality and comfort. The interlining in the collar leaf (point) is significantly thicker than the fusing we use on our standard collars, and the interlining for the collar band is a pinch lighter than the lining in the collar leaf--but still thicker than our current fused interlinings.

    We found the thicker of the two interlinings really helps collars stand up and look crisp, but was a little uncomfortable in the collar band. We went down in weight just a pinch in the band and found it to be significantly more comfortable, while still holding its shape incredibly well. We sourced the interlinings from Alumo in Switzerland, for those familiar. They make some incredible stuff--I would be very surprised to find interlining qualities like these in any shirts in our price range. They're truly some of the finest interlinings in the world, if not the finest.



    Definitely on our list of product development--might even add a full 1"...depending on the success of the Apple Watch. Wouldn't expect it before summer, though, still some other things to get going before (darts, button updates, improved monogramming options to name a few).
     


  6. Sotiris

    Sotiris Senior member

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    Awesome stuff, thanks!
     


  7. Winery Dog

    Winery Dog New Member

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    Nova,

    I was confused as well because the three new "stiff" collars do not show up under "Collar Styles" in the "Custom Dress Shirt" tab on their website. You have to go to "Design A Shirt" and look under "Style" to see them. It looks like they only have them in the English Spread, Presidents Spread, and Roma Cutaway. They don't have it in the Roma Spread so the collar in the pic posted by Sotiris must be the standard Roma Spread (fused).

    If you like the Presidents Spread you now have 3 choices; standard (fused), soft (unfused), and stiff (unfused but w/thick interlining). The new stiff collar seems like it fits what I need so I'm going to order that one...as soon as they have the movable button option ready.
     


  8. Andrew Ryan

    Andrew Ryan Senior member

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    @ccallis - when the button placement movement option launches, if you move the top button UP instead of down, will the remaining placket buttons move up by the same amount?
     


  9. Andrew Ryan

    Andrew Ryan Senior member

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    Does anyone here rock the Franklin Semi-Spread, (or any of the Franklin collars for that matter)? I know there's a strong preference for wider spreads on SF, but I have a relatively short neck and round face and am strongly considering trying it out, but would really like to see it with a jacket.

    Also, just a suggestion to PC: the collar styles page, while pretty amazing, could be vastly improved by incl. a photo with a jacket on with each.
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2015


  10. ccallis

    ccallis Senior member

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    @Andrew Ryan Yes, they will. In some cases you may gain an additional button on the placket, as well.
     


  11. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Senior member

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    Alright. Take two. New fit feels much better, almost all the tightness under the arms and in the elbow has gone. Perhaps went a bit too far with sleeve length, can see some extra fabric bunching. Will reduce the cuff size by .25 too. Also considering reducing the waist to get rid of excess fabric at the back. But grateful for you feedback. Thanks!

    [​IMG]

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    Last edited: Mar 29, 2015


  12. Andrew Ryan

    Andrew Ryan Senior member

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    Awesome. One more tiny question - will they move proportionately, i.e, raising top button by 1" raises second button by 1", and so forth?
     


  13. ccallis

    ccallis Senior member

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    @sebastian mcfox Yea--looks like the sleeves have a bit too much room. I'd suggest taking .25" off the cuff and .5" off of the sleeve width--please note this will make the sleeve feel tighter in the armpit. If you're worried about this, switching to tailored armpit fit and adding a degree of shoulder slope can help lower the armhole a bit.

    I'm not sure we want to go too much slimmer in the midsection, but you could probably do .5". If you let me know your order AC # I can compare against the measurements of your shirt.
     


  14. ccallis

    ccallis Senior member

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    @Andrew RyanIn almost all cases I believe this is what will happen, though I think there will be some niche cases where the spacing might change from our standard spacing. Probably only a very small amount, though.
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2015


  15. novaeagle

    novaeagle Senior member

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    I wouldn't take anything out of the midsection. It's pretty slim already. Honestly I think the shirt looks pretty good. Maybe take .25" from the arm, shorten the sleeve slightly, and make the cuff smaller.

    I'm actually about to post a fit of a shirt I got in today in a little bit (although it'll be a mirror picture). I added back darts due to some pulling when sitting at my desk, but I think I might take them out on the next iteration. Otherwise it's pretty much a universally "super slim fit" in measurements relative to my body.
     


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