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potlikker

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Hey, I'm wondering about the button down collar styles on an order I'm about to put together. What do people usually get for a casual shirt, no tie?

Options are:
Soft Ivy
President
Colorado
I toggle between both Soft Ivy and President for this purpose. Soft Ivy for true casual and President for gearing slightly more towards business casual.
 

StanleyVanBuren

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Soft Ivy is great for oxford cloth. The roll can be more unpredictable with other fabrics. A casual unlined collar that splits the difference between the Ivy and the Colorado at 3" with little to no roll would be a great option to add at some point.
 

vikke977

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A fully unlined buttondown with (slightly) more pointed 3.5 inch points would be the ideal collar for all things oxford, flannel and denim. That’s the way they did it when ”Ivy” first came around. Today I can only think of Mercer and Sons as doing it the true way. When done correctly a unlined collar, in a heavy enough fabric, has the most sumptuous roll. ”The roll” can so easily get curbed by a lining/fusing. The more pointed tips makes the collar more expressive.

It’s not that the Soft Ivy Buttondown is bad, actually it’s the opposite, but it could be more traditional (=better).

A online MTM company, like Proper Cloth, would have to solve the obvious problem arising from the risk of unknowing customers pairing the unlined collar with a far too lightweight fabric. The combination results in a flimsy collar that won’t look right no matter what. Even a highly esteemed maker like Mercer and Sons, who can decide the fabric and collar pairing themselves, have made the mistake of putting a fully unlined collar on their broadcloths. As I said, their OCBD are second to none, though.
 

EZB

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Hey, I'm wondering about the button down collar styles on an order I'm about to put together. What do people usually get for a casual shirt, no tie?

Options are:
Soft Ivy
President
Colorado
I personally love the Colorado. You can’t wear it with a tie, due to the button in the back, but who wears ties now? It’s my go-to button-down collar for untucked shirts. I feel like I’m getting extra value, too, because of the third button for no extra money :)
 

AltNameTK

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Hey Steph, is there any chance you'd restock this selvedge chambray fabric? Or restock it with another highly textured Japanese chambray?

I've been kicking myself for over a year for not buying a shirt from that fabric when it was in stock. I've checked out the other fabrics you stock in your Manhattan showrooms and they're nice, but don't really do it for me. There's something about the texture of that Japanese one that really sings to me.
 

EZB

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Hey Steph, is there any chance you'd restock this selvedge chambray fabric? Or restock it with another highly textured Japanese chambray?

I've been kicking myself for over a year for not buying a shirt from that fabric when it was in stock. I've checked out the other fabrics you stock in your Manhattan showrooms and they're nice, but don't really do it for me. There's something about the texture of that Japanese one that really sings to me.
I plus one that!
 

single_origin

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I'm in the market for a non-iron or easy care pair of pants.

Does anyone have any experience with the Milano Performance Chino, Non-Iron Stretch Chino or Versa pant? How's the non-iron functionality and breathability?
 

potlikker

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I'm in the market for a non-iron or easy care pair of pants.

Does anyone have any experience with the Milano Performance Chino, Non-Iron Stretch Chino or Versa pant? How's the non-iron functionality and breathability?
First, it appears that the Non-Iron Stretch Chino and Versa pant are the same fabric, just with different styles (chino vs. dress pant).
I have multiple pairs of the Milano pants as well as the NI Stretch Chino/Versa pants and like them all...
The Milanos are more wrinkle resistant in my experience, but they appear quite technical. I only wear them with very causal outfits or other technical pieces. I don't play golf, but I'd guess they'd be perfect for that application. I find them breathable enough and have worn them on long international flights and temps in the 80s and remained comfortable.
In my experience, the NI Stretch Chino/Versa fabrics are more prone to wrinkles than other "non-iron" fabrics from PC like the shirts but still fairly wrinkle resistant and do not have the dreaded shiny character of inferior non-iron pants. Solid, but I still iron them quickly before each wear, especially after traveling. Medium-heavyweight and fairly breathable - I have not had issues, but might choose different pants for very hot days. One other note: the navy fabric DPF2 is too dark for my taste as it appears black.
 

Seph

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First, it appears that the Non-Iron Stretch Chino and Versa pant are the same fabric, just with different styles (chino vs. dress pant).
I have multiple pairs of the Milano pants as well as the NI Stretch Chino/Versa pants and like them all...
The Milanos are more wrinkle resistant in my experience, but they appear quite technical. I only wear them with very causal outfits or other technical pieces. I don't play golf, but I'd guess they'd be perfect for that application. I find them breathable enough and have worn them on long international flights and temps in the 80s and remained comfortable.
In my experience, the NI Stretch Chino/Versa fabrics are more prone to wrinkles than other "non-iron" fabrics from PC like the shirts but still fairly wrinkle resistant and do not have the dreaded shiny character of inferior non-iron pants. Solid, but I still iron them quickly before each wear, especially after traveling. Medium-heavyweight and fairly breathable - I have not had issues, but might choose different pants for very hot days. One other note: the navy fabric DPF2 is too dark for my taste as it appears black.
Nice summary ^
 

single_origin

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First, it appears that the Non-Iron Stretch Chino and Versa pant are the same fabric, just with different styles (chino vs. dress pant).
I have multiple pairs of the Milano pants as well as the NI Stretch Chino/Versa pants and like them all...
The Milanos are more wrinkle resistant in my experience, but they appear quite technical. I only wear them with very causal outfits or other technical pieces. I don't play golf, but I'd guess they'd be perfect for that application. I find them breathable enough and have worn them on long international flights and temps in the 80s and remained comfortable.
In my experience, the NI Stretch Chino/Versa fabrics are more prone to wrinkles than other "non-iron" fabrics from PC like the shirts but still fairly wrinkle resistant and do not have the dreaded shiny character of inferior non-iron pants. Solid, but I still iron them quickly before each wear, especially after traveling. Medium-heavyweight and fairly breathable - I have not had issues, but might choose different pants for very hot days. One other note: the navy fabric DPF2 is too dark for my taste as it appears black.

Thanks! Is the Milano a lightweight fabric then? And can you get away with not ironing it at all after coming out of the washing machine?

How long have you had the NI stretch chino? It says it's dipped in a non-iron treatment. I'm guessing that will fade away after a certain number of washes.
 

potlikker

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@Seph I really appreciate recent the influx of non-iron options across both shirts and pants, especially on the slightly more casual part of the business casual spectrum (a recent blue NI oxford cloth PCD186 for example). I love many of the interesting fabrics that are prone to wrinkles, but I also need solutions to look very sharp and presentable after flights or long days moving around and nothing beats quality non-iron options. Keep 'em comin!
 

potlikker

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Thanks! Is the Milano a lightweight fabric then? And can you get away with not ironing it at all after coming out of the washing machine?

How long have you had the NI stretch chino? It says it's dipped in a non-iron treatment. I'm guessing that will fade away after a certain number of washes.
I actually would call the Milano weight a medium+ going solely on memory/feel. Rather substantial, but still breathable enough.
I have not had the NI stretch chinos more than a few months, so your point about longevity is a good question.
 

single_origin

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I actually would call the Milano weight a medium+ going solely on memory/feel. Rather substantial, but still breathable enough.
I have not had the NI stretch chinos more than a few months, so your point about longevity is a good question.

@Seph How long is the non iron treatment expected to last?
 

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